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    #31
    I hate to be the Berrer of bad news you may have a tranny going bad as the Plannatary gear set is going bad and it will self destruct in time so get a new tranny.

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      #32
      Originally posted by Rodentkiller View Post
      I hate to be the Berrer of bad news you may have a tranny going bad as the Plannatary gear set is going bad and it will self destruct in time so get a new tranny.
      If it's the tranny I'm not fixing it. I'll sell it. The car isn't worth the money to put a new tranny in it.

      The car shifts fine, and other than the noise and vibration, it drives fine as well. Which leads me to believe it's the rear end, but that might just be wishful thinking.

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        #33
        If it is the rear end, that's a good time for a traction-lock and some deeper gears!

        BTW, I wasn't trying to be like "oh, your crazy, there is no smell". Lol. We have customers whose senses seem to be super heightened after they spend a few dollars having their cars fixed. Lol

        Good luck!
        -Don
        '85 CV coupe- 351W, T5-Z, FAST Ez-Efi, shorty headers, 2.5" duals with knock off flowmasters, 2.5" Impala tails, seriously worked GT-40 irons, Comp 265DEH cam, 1.7rr's, Mallory HyFire 6A, Taylor ThunderVolt 50 10.4mm wires, 75mm t/b, 3G alt swap, 140mph PI speedo, PI rear sway bar, '00 PI booster/MC, 95-97 front spindles, '99 front hub bearings/brakes, '92-'94 front upper control arms/ball-joints, 3.73's with rebuilt traction-lok, '09 PI rear disc swap, '96 Mustang GT wheels with 235/55R17's.

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          #34
          Originally posted by sick88tbird View Post
          If it is the rear end, that's a good time for a traction-lock and some deeper gears!

          BTW, I wasn't trying to be like "oh, your crazy, there is no smell". Lol. We have customers whose senses seem to be super heightened after they spend a few dollars having their cars fixed. Lol

          Good luck!
          -Don
          If I had the money for the extra goodies I would, but I don't right now.

          I know what you mean about the smell, and I do that as well. I tend to discover every little noise and smell my vehicles make shortly after the first thing goes wrong. lol

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            #35
            Ok, after a little drive today (and hanging out the door at 40 mph) I've made some discoveries. I'll just list everything I know.

            The noise seems to be coming from the rear end or drive shaft.

            The noise is only a grinding sound sometimes. The majority of the time it's a metallic "pinging" sound, like something metal is dragging and bouncing on the ground. It is directly related to the speed of the car. It gets louder and faster as I gain speed. (There's nothing hanging off the car unless it only hangs down when I drive.)

            The sound doesn't start until I go over 25 MPH. Then it doesn't go away no matter what speed I'm going.

            The sound goes away when I stop. In any gear.

            The brakes seem to be working fine, and don't seem sticky or tight.

            It shifts fine. Into OD, D, and R from park, and into any gear while driving.

            There's probably more I'm forgetting. All work and no play makes me a dull (and forgetful) boy. I have a couple of hours today. I'll look at what I can on the car. I still don't have stands or ramps, so I'll see if I can wedge my pudgy self under there far enough. lol

            Thanks for all the help and suggestions so far.

            -Jake

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              #36
              sounds like time to take apart the rear brakes to check for broken parts, and check the U joints in the driveshaft. If the little men have dried out, it will make noises. Same if a spring inside the drum broke. If you've never looked at the rear brakes, don't be real surprised if nobody else ever has either. The drums are very often neglected, mostly because they don't wear quickly. Given enough time, the parts fail from rust and fatigue.


              Don't worry about the transmission. Its rare to blow a planetary set. I've honestly never even heard of that happening to an AOD that wasn't behind some very stout motor. If it has 4 gears and doesn't seem to be doing anything horrible, just make sure its got the right amount and right color (red) fluid and you're fine. If it starts to look black or metallic, then you may need to worry.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                #37
                Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                sounds like time to take apart the rear brakes to check for broken parts, and check the U joints in the driveshaft. If the little men have dried out, it will make noises. Same if a spring inside the drum broke. If you've never looked at the rear brakes, don't be real surprised if nobody else ever has either. The drums are very often neglected, mostly because they don't wear quickly. Given enough time, the parts fail from rust and fatigue.


                Don't worry about the transmission. Its rare to blow a planetary set. I've honestly never even heard of that happening to an AOD that wasn't behind some very stout motor. If it has 4 gears and doesn't seem to be doing anything horrible, just make sure its got the right amount and right color (red) fluid and you're fine. If it starts to look black or metallic, then you may need to worry.
                Good to know! The fluid is fine, nice red, no flakes in it. but I'm still getting tons of bubbles that make it impossible to get a clear reading. I sucked out about half a 20oz bottle of fluid about a week ago and there seems to be less bubbles now than there was. I'm worried about taking out too much since I can't get a reading.

                Had my wife drive while I monkeyed my way out of the car to listen. lol 98% positive it's coming from the back. It's also more of a squeak at low speed (Under 30). It gets faster with increased speed. The rear wheels don't look to have anything leaking on them, nor does the pumpkin or the rest of the axle from what I could see. I can't reach the drive shaft without lifting the car, so I can't check that until I get more time and borrow some ramps.

                I did discover, however, that the exhaust was recently replaced with stainless pipe, and what looks like a small glass pack, I also didn't see any cats on it, which is ok where I live. Not sure what to make of that, really. The work looks really shitty. Bad welds and random pieces of pipe stuck together. I'm pretty sure it was done on a farm somewhere by someone who knows nothing about exhaust.

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                  #38
                  Could also be a halfass exhaust shop. Most people could give a damn about what it looks like, they just want the pipe to come out at the back and not make as much noise as it did when they got there. I've seen some pretty bad exhaust work.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Comment


                    #39
                    I'm now 98% certain it's the u-joints going(well more like gone)by your narrowed down description...and if they're that bad, you need to replace them sooner rather than later or risk beating up a bunch of a sheet metal.
                    '85 CV coupe- 351W, T5-Z, FAST Ez-Efi, shorty headers, 2.5" duals with knock off flowmasters, 2.5" Impala tails, seriously worked GT-40 irons, Comp 265DEH cam, 1.7rr's, Mallory HyFire 6A, Taylor ThunderVolt 50 10.4mm wires, 75mm t/b, 3G alt swap, 140mph PI speedo, PI rear sway bar, '00 PI booster/MC, 95-97 front spindles, '99 front hub bearings/brakes, '92-'94 front upper control arms/ball-joints, 3.73's with rebuilt traction-lok, '09 PI rear disc swap, '96 Mustang GT wheels with 235/55R17's.

                    Comment


                      #40
                      Originally posted by sick88tbird View Post
                      I'm now 98% certain it's the u-joints going(well more like gone)by your narrowed down description...and if they're that bad, you need to replace them sooner rather than later or risk beating up a bunch of a sheet metal.
                      That would be awesome, cheap and easy. I'll ask my co-worker tonight if I can borrow his ramps and/or stands. Unfortunately, I won't be able to do anything about it until I get paid. I'm only driving it to and from work at this point, and never over 25-30MPH for about 1/4 - 1/2 a mile. Hopefully it'll hold out.

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                        #41
                        Have you checked the oil level in the diff?

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                          #42
                          Originally posted by Louis View Post
                          Have you checked the oil level in the diff?
                          No. I don't have ramps to get under the car.

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                            #43
                            Any chance to check this thing over yet?
                            '85 CV coupe- 351W, T5-Z, FAST Ez-Efi, shorty headers, 2.5" duals with knock off flowmasters, 2.5" Impala tails, seriously worked GT-40 irons, Comp 265DEH cam, 1.7rr's, Mallory HyFire 6A, Taylor ThunderVolt 50 10.4mm wires, 75mm t/b, 3G alt swap, 140mph PI speedo, PI rear sway bar, '00 PI booster/MC, 95-97 front spindles, '99 front hub bearings/brakes, '92-'94 front upper control arms/ball-joints, 3.73's with rebuilt traction-lok, '09 PI rear disc swap, '96 Mustang GT wheels with 235/55R17's.

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                              #44
                              Not yet. Haven't had any time, and when I do I never have access to ramps or stands. I've been trying to get into the shop for over a week, but the guy is busy all the time. (Won't take it to another shop due to ridiculous prices.) It hasn't gotten any worse just driving to and from work for short distances under 35MPH. I've had it over 45 once and it seems to do fine, but when I let off the gas the grinding/vibration is noticeably worse at higher speeds.

                              I'm going to hound the mechanic tomorrow and see what I can get done.

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