Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Axle seals??

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Axle seals??

    Hey Guys..
    I was woundering if someone could tell me in detail how to replace axle seals. The pass side is leaking and needs replaced I have to put new brakes on and dont want to ruin the new brake shoes!!. I work on my own cars all the time but have never had to replace an axle seal ever.

    #2
    you will have to remove the rearend cover and be able to slide your axle out. you will have to check your axle code so you know to get the correct gearoil for the differential. you can locatet the axle code by looking up AX on your driver door sticker... goodsamaritan has a listing for the axle codes and such.... i am sure others will also go into further detail, but i was making sure you wwould have the correct gear oil in the rear.
    Addicted to 86-87 Panthers

    Comment


      #3
      You'll want to get a shop manual if you don't already have one so you can see how it all goes together...I'd post pictures if I had any, but I don't, so here's the best explanation I can give in text form.

      Pull the rear cover off the differential and let the fluid drain into a pan. There's a shaft that goes through the middle of the carrier that holds the spider gears and is held in by a small bolt (5/16 head IIRC). Take that bolt out and the shaft should slide out pretty easily. Then, with the wheels and brake drums removed, push in on the axles and they'll move toward the center of the car maybe 1/4" or so. You'll be able to see the inner ends of the axles in the middle of the carrier. They have little clips on the ends that are sort of shaped like a "C" (aptly named C-clips). Those just slide off the sides of the axles. Then you'll be able to pull the axles out of the ends of the housing, which will give you access to the seals. For getting the old seals out, use a screwdriver, pliers, whatever you can get ahold of it and yank it out with. Then, take the new seal and smear a little RTV around the outside and a little gear oil or grease around the inside, and tap it in with a hammer. Obviously you'll want to be gentle with the hammer so you don't damage the seal. If you've got a seal driver set, or a big socket that's the right diameter to go over the seal and help drive it in straight, so much the better. Reinstall axles and C-clips, slip spider gear shaft back in and reinstall retaining bolt, put the diff cover back on, refill with fluid (and some of the posi clutch additive if it's a limited slip rear), put the brake drums and wheels back on, and you're done. Probably sounds complicated, but it really isn't.

      2001 Ford Crown Victoria P71 - "The Fire Engine"
      1985 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series
      But God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us. Romans 5:8

      Comment


        #4
        Help with info

        Thanx guys for your replys,man when I need help there's always somone on here more than willing to help out a big THANX to everyone who's helped me out with info that Ive needed.Im a member of some other sites who shall remain nameless and there nothing but a bunch of smartasses we are all interested in the same things (cars,trucks and how to modify and take care of them) why not help out a fellow car or truck nut!!!!! I know I will anytime anywhere Thanx again porkchop

        Comment


          #5
          Hi Pork Chop

          Check out This Tech Tip on changing the rear bearings for some pictures and specs.

          Regards

          Dereck
          President and founder of The Turbine Wheel Appreciation Society and Little Debbie Cake Connoissuer

          Also "The Pondside Pain In Your Posterior"

          Comment


            #6
            the pop off/bleed off valve

            some hard learned noob advice, had a fit with my rear axle leaking gear oil out the right rear wheel. changed bearing and seal didn't fix it. after replacng twice, found the little bleeder valve on top of rear end was gummed up causing all my troubles. ended up with a wore spot in my axle and had to put one of those repair bearings in to straddle the bad spot . i know i need a new axle but in my case the repair bearing seems to be doing the job for now.
            s265.photobucket.com/albums/ii208/brokebill/
            "Ain't we gonna bury him ?"
            "Buzzards gotta eat same as worms."
            ----outlaw josey wales
            (88 LTD Crown Vic LX-Ruby)

            Comment


              #7
              You talking about the little breather valve on the housing? Hmmm...I've been noticing that my rear end was leaking out of one end, despite the new seals. Wonder if maybe I've got the same problem.

              2001 Ford Crown Victoria P71 - "The Fire Engine"
              1985 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series
              But God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us. Romans 5:8

              Comment


                #8
                i can say i know for a fact i have bad rear seals on my Grand Marq. i had the rear wheels and drums off to do rear brake adjustments and noticed the seal leaking. mine is on the driver side where it is leaking. doesnt take long to do a proper check to see if the seals are bad or if it is the breather valve.
                Addicted to 86-87 Panthers

                Comment


                  #9
                  my breather valve being gummed up actually made my right seal go out. repeatedly.
                  s265.photobucket.com/albums/ii208/brokebill/
                  "Ain't we gonna bury him ?"
                  "Buzzards gotta eat same as worms."
                  ----outlaw josey wales
                  (88 LTD Crown Vic LX-Ruby)

                  Comment


                    #10
                    if its over-filled it will also leak. Bad bearings will make the oil get really hot and bubble out the overflow. Thats what was causing mine. The axle tubes would actually be warm to the touch in the winter after driving 75 miles or so. New bearings, new seals, etc and its all good.

                    also i'm gonna shuffle this to the drivetrain forum, seems more fitting there.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Where's my thread with pics? Oh, silly me, it was in one of my Reader's Rides thread. Starts basically at post #19 below in the following link. Keep in mind I was replacing the bearings ... though if I remember correctly, the bearings weren't too expensive, so you might consider replacing them anyway since you probably won't want to do this all that often.

                      Post pics of your car in here, works in progress, etc... Ford/Lincoln/Mercury vehicles only.


                      And here's my collection of pics from the procedure, including the puller and driver tools:

                      Last edited by 1987cp; 02-06-2008, 04:00 AM.
                      2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X