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help an idiot replace his front end

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    help an idiot replace his front end

    I have:

    tie rod ends (all 4)
    tie rod sleeves (2)
    idler arm
    pitman arm
    rotors
    pads
    inner/outer bearings/seals/dust caps/a bucket of bearing grease
    a bunch of dot 3

    I do not have:

    any experience replacing any of those things



    however,

    I replaced all of my suspension sofar myself with the exception of front coil springs. Did shocks and rear springs, and today I did my front sway bar end links and bushing. All of that stuff seemed pretty straightforward but the front end gubbins is all interconnected in such a way that I don't know where to start with it. I have the haynes book for my car so I've got it to fall back on if need be, I was hoping I'd be able to ask you lot for help as well. Where the hell do I start?!

    What tools are needed? I need to get a grease gun because all of my MOOG parts have grease nipples. Is there a recommended kind of grease?

    I have never done brakes myself, either, so any advice there would be appreciated. Don't write a novel because I know there are novels written on the subject on the board, just any tidbits that might help a n00b at brakes. irony, my last name is brake.



    It also looks like I should really replace the rubber bump stop things. How many do I have?



    I really hope none of this stuff is beyond me. I'll have to do it at some point since I'm gonna be schoolin' to be a mechanic..but doing it to my own car when I don't have the option of fucking it up like I would a vehicle in the classroom.


    thanks all
    sigpic


    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

    #2
    tools needed

    for the pitman arm idler arm and tie rod ends and sleeves

    pitman arm puller
    socket for the pitman arm nut, it's rather large, not sure of the size
    wrenches 1/2" 3/4" 13/16, 18mm
    sockets 15mm 1/2"
    big hammer
    pickle fork
    needlenose pliers (for the cotter pins)
    side cutters (for the cotter pins)
    channelock pliers (for the front wheel bearing nut)

    it's not that hard to change the pitman arm, remove the cotter pin and nut on the steering center link side, hit the centerlink squarely with the big hammer till the taper fit breaks free (or use the pickle fork if it wont come free) remove the big nut on the steering box output shaft, pull the pitman arm with the pitman arm puller, install the new pitman arm.

    to replace the tie rod ends
    tale the nuts and cotter pins off, then hit the spindle with the big hammer at the outer tie rod end to break the taper free (or again use the pickle fork) do the same on the centerlink

    assemble the new inner and outer tie rod ends into the sleeves, try to get the length end to end as close as you can, tighten the collars on the sleeves and install

    to replace the idler arm first you take the nut off at the centerlink, and work the centerlink free......most of the time the idler arm bushing sleeve sticks fast to the pin on the centerlink end, so it might require some prying, next unbolt the pitman arm from the frame, you will need a socket and an extension to reach inside the frame, tape the socket to the extension so you dont lose it in the frame, take the nuts off and holding the bolts in the holes install the new idler arm on the frame.....going back to the other end, the sleeve might be rusted on, you will have to chisel it off before installing the new idler arm if it stuck there, put some antisieze or grease on the pin to keep it from rusting fast again

    1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
    2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
    1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
    1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
    2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
    1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

    please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

    Comment


      #3
      pickle fork and a 3 lbs sledge FTW. My pickle fork looks like crap since I've used it for so many things it's not supposed to be used for (chisel, hammer extension to bang on control arm bushings, etc).

      Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
      rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

      Originally posted by gadget73
      ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

      Originally posted by dmccaig
      Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

      Comment


        #4
        I rented a 34mm socket for the Pitman arm nut. It's really about 33mm, but 34 is what they had at AutoZone to rent.
        2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

        Comment


          #5
          If you're going to install the front springs, you should do the lower ball joints at the same time.
          Originally posted by gadget73
          There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
          91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
          93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
          Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
          Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
          95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

          Comment


            #6
            so you mash on the bolt on the inner/outer tie rods to get them to break free? they are a bit dirty and full of old grease i think - should i use something like carb cleaner or brake cleaner to get it all off to break the bolts loose? will i hurt anything with it if i'm careful about overspray?
            sigpic


            - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

            - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

            - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

            Comment


              #7
              No need to clean anything for disassembly unless it makes you feel better.

              Damaging effects of overspray? Depends on what you overspray onto. Don't think there's a lot you can hurt in that area, though.

              I have a couple of grease guns, a little one that's really handy and a big one that's clunky but that I don't have to refill constantly. Especially since I use grease guns only rarely, it seems obnoxious to have to stop in the middle of what I'm doing to refill the dumb thing. I bought a flexible hose to go on the big one, so that makes it actually more useful. I do suggest filling your gun with a cartridge, as scooping grease in by hand is incredibly messy.
              2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
                I rented a 34mm socket for the Pitman arm nut. It's really about 33mm, but 34 is what they had at AutoZone to rent.
                Yeah, let's see - we've already got a 32, 34, and 36 so let's make it...

                33

                I used a pipe wrench.

                Done yet 1990?

                Pete
                Originally posted by gadget73
                For other types of inquiry, more information is required. Please press 4 to speak to a representative who can help you with your question. This call may be monitored for quality assurance purposes.


                2003 Grand Marquis Ultimate, the "Stealth Bomber": http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...-Grand-Marquis
                1991 S-10, 'Bulldog', 2.5l 5 speed: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...375#post698375
                1985 Town Car, 'Faded Glory', gone but not forgotten. 84/87/91/97 MGMs too.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Sounds about like Ford logic! Not planned with respect to ease of maintenance. :nonono:
                  2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                  Comment

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