max HP on drivetrain?

[merc91]

yeh had it dyno tuned for 5 hrs at alternative in michigan and she spit out some good hp and tq, only reving it up to 5600rpm on the cast pistons. ill get the dyno sheets up here soon. but yes tuned for everything in my sig. cam is .533 and .544 lift. heads are mildly ported and lots of other stuff not listed that i havnt got around to posting. nitrous will be activated with my 3000rpm setting on a window switch and full throttle switch which is at about the 20 ft mark to kick on. no nitrous i get decent take off traction with my 150 lb of sound shit in the trunk but a little spin on 1st shift.

ok so my rear end is good then, and driveshaft will hold 450 hp and the tranny? correct. and i might put in some better ujoints than my stockers. and i doubt the 275bfg's will do the job so slicks should be ok?

thanks, andy

[merc91]

the beefy back springs are handy as i carry around some big boys in that car with a canoe on top and boat motor, and have thrown i big white tail buck in the trunk and mudded out of the bush with it haha... they have settled a little since the pic but its still up there, the kyb gas-a-justs and adco rear sway bar helped out traction quite a bit to. and edge reccomended a higher stall for me also but in college i just didnt have the extra400 bux to throw at it so i had them do a 2900 for me.

[zoomie]

run the slicks on the track and only the track run them on the street and youll chewem up. so yeah when racing slicks it is,also you might look into some stickeier street tires for street traction. also there are springs and stuff out there that will give you stock height ,but retain the extra weight capacity. im working on a few ideas myself for my linc. im taking an idea from a mustang minitub packages, and poss nitrogen shocks

[gadget73]

run the crappiest tires you can. Traction is what breaks things. Run shit tires that won't hook up, and none of the rest of the system is a concern


on a more serious note, a girdle for the carrier might not be a bad idea. Its basically a cover that ties into the carrier bearing caps to help give extra support. I'd also strongly consider a driveshaft loop, and probably a later model driveshaft since those have a larger diameter, but more importantly, larger U joints. Prob need to change the pinion flange to use the larger rear driveshaft flange though, otherwise you're using the conversion joints front and back, and the stock sized rear driveshaft flange. Not much help for the front yoke, only the AOD one fits the AOD.

Disc brakes would be smart too. Not just for the extra stopping power, but the rotor and caliper will retain the axle should something break. With drums, if the axle snaps, the wheel will just part company from the car. if you're somewhat lucky, it will end up inside the wheel well but its still gonna fuck things up if it comes out of the axle. If you haven't already done so, I'd be pulling both of those axles and giving them a really good inspection, and replacing the outer bearings and seals if they haven't already been done.

[Mercracer]

hmhm, so i want to stay under the limit if i can and i'm not sure if i should stay away from slicks so traction is the weak link...

Go ahead and get slicks... Traction is still the weak link. Unless you have a trans-brake, you will never put all of that power to your parts in a harsh manner. With your factory suspension you will not hook your slicks well enough to do damage. Deliberately using inferior tires just to go slower is a waste.
If you hook hard enough to break something then replace that broken part with something better. Until then, do not sweat it.....

[merc91]

thanks gadget thats the kinda stuff im lookin for. and ill pick up some slicks for the track then.