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torque box rust?

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    torque box rust?

    I was just reading the other night on a crownvic forum about rust in these things called torque boxes.
    Well, the night after the other night, I was doing some work under the car and took a look-see.

    I found them, and in fact, they are full of cubic inches of blossomed rust, and there are holes in the bottom.
    Honestly, most of this car looks quite alright.
    It seems water must pool in just the bottom of these torque boxes.
    Can I simply weld a new square plate of steel to make a new bottom to the box?
    I'm NOT going to be doing a frame-off restoration; this is purely about pragmatic damage control that can be done quickly and easily-- if it maybe even needs to be done at all?

    #2
    Need someone that can actually weld a frame and weld it properly.
    sigpic


    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

    Comment


      #3
      Ac evaporator drains on the frame there.

      Comment


        #4
        yeah, driver's side right under the A pillar is a common rot point because of the AC. Have the rust ground out and a plate welded on. No big deal if you catch it before the frame goes away. I'd wager most of the cars on here either have or had a hole there. Believe it or not, mine is one of the few that don't. It had a rot spot on the other side where nothing ever goes bad, but under the AC was fine. Go figure.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Comment


          #5
          Mine isn't rotten there, oddly enough. The rear quarters are horrible but the torque box on that side is fine...probably because the AC died and nobody ever recharged it
          sigpic


          - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

          - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

          - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

          Comment


            #6
            Mine has minor rot. And the driver's side is fine.

            We should probably have a sticky about this

            85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
            160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
            waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

            06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

            Comment


              #7
              you mean passenger side, don't you?
              And, it's plain old mild steel? So find a plate, cut it up, have a more welding-experienced coworker tack it on? Easy-peasy?

              Amazing that no one has figured out good drainage yet.
              On volvos, which are all unibodies, there's still a subframe under the engine compartment. The body bolts ALWAYS drop water on you when you unzip them-- I only ever see them at 5 years old at most. I wonder what they'll look like at 15 years of water sitting right there pooled around the body bolts?
              And the sunroof drains are forever clogging, and then letting water right into the car.
              It becomes all the more tragic when there's no longer just one $200 engine computer like on my old panther, but instead, a dozen $800 computers at risk (OK, not all of them are really in risky spots). The central electronics module is not uncommon to die from water damage, and it will literally disable the vehicle when it does.

              Comment


                #8
                At least the computer isn't up in the fender!



                I think Scott figured out a way to get the AC to drip away from the frame.
                sigpic


                - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                Comment


                  #9
                  manufacturers do not build cars to last forever. They could, sure, but nobody would pay the money it would cost, and then you wouldn't have reason to get rid of your car every so many years. We're the freaks for driving 20+ year old stuff that we've fixed.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Comment


                    #10
                    fix it and run it! when it falls apart from rust or damage... get another one and do the same.

                    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                    Originally posted by gadget73
                    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                    Originally posted by dmccaig
                    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                    Comment

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