Great info (as usual)!!
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Steering Coulmb stupid
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"Hope and dignity are two things NO ONE can take away from you - you have to relinquish them on your own" Miamibob
"NEVER trade your passion for glory"!! Sal "the Bard" (Dear Old Dad!)
"Cars are for driving - PERIOD! I DON'T TEXT, TWEET OR TWERK!!!!"
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This is the ignition switch. I have a new one I will install. Noticed this one was loose between the metal part and the white plastic part. Tapped the metal tabs with a drift punch to snugg it up. Notice the bar coming out the end of the switch this is what broke in my column.
Notice the security break off fasteners holding the switch to the column. Vice grips will remove them. The newer model shafts use torx with the pin in the middle security fasteners which I will use installing the new switch.Scars are tatoos of the fearless
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Removing the lock cylinder. Disconnect the battery, remove covers, turn the key to the run position, push in pin shown in pic and pull the cylinder out. Might need to jiggle it a bit. Install be shure the lock is turned to the on position. This can be checked as its the only position the pin can be pushed in. Pin will need to be pushed in to begin inserting the cylinder. Shot in the cylinder hsg shows position of the inside in the start position. Wire shown in this pic is installed incorrectly in its bracket. The grove in the wire case should be in the bracket not the plastic sleeve.Scars are tatoos of the fearless
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This is the switch removed note the position of the hole in the switch it is in the start position. A new switch should be in this position as purchased. If you move the key to a different position or the switch itself it neesds to be moved back to the on position or it wont allighn properly and will cause some switch positions to be blocked.
Pin pointed out inserts in the switch. The bolt holes in the switch, one is a hole one is a slot. The hole (what is call a tight hole) should be the first one to insert a fastener in and start to tighten. Then insert the one in the slot and start it. Then snugg up the one in the hole then sloted one. then tiughten both to final torq.Scars are tatoos of the fearless
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The bar in this pic is what broke in my column. The end to the left is missing. There should be an end with some teeth on it to engage the cats paw like gear. The gear is what the key turns to slide the bar which moves the switches position. There is another piece missing that locks the steering wheel. Think it somehow installs on the spring and rod in the center of the beem. Its all stuck in the old column.Scars are tatoos of the fearless
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A few things about removal and installation of the column. disconnecting the spedo cable at the speedo and unbolting the gas pedal from the floor give some more room to maneuver.
The rubber boot seal has to be tucked in under the carpet and under the sound deadner matting. Its a pain. The plastic guard sits over the carpet.
Hang the column on the studs but last thing is to tighten them down. After its all tucked in attach the screws that hold the boot and guard in place start the ones inside then the 3 out side (some alignment might be needed) then snugg them all up.Last edited by turbo2256b; 11-13-2012, 08:31 PM.Scars are tatoos of the fearless
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There is some foam on the wiper and turn signal switches. Guessing it keeps dirt out not sure. If you take one switch out it splits the foam.
Since I was going to change both switches taped them togeather and then swaped them without riping the foam appart. Might have found some foam tape here but chances I WOULD HAVE TPO DRIVE 40 MI TO FIND SOME.Scars are tatoos of the fearless
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While at it pulled the steering shaft out completely. Etended the shaft cleaned it up with some fine sand paper and scotch brite. Gooped the inside of the tube with some chain saw bar lube. Cut out a piece of rubber mat (some felt or such could be used) stuffed it in the the rag joint end in hopes of keeping moisture out. Collaped it installed the shaft in the car tightened everthing up under the hood.Scars are tatoos of the fearless
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Back inside the car plugged in all the wires going in the column. Its a bit tricky to get them all wrapped around each other properly and plugged in.
Next is the upper and lower covers. Might have to drop the column a bit. Then install the ring that sits behind the wheel.Scars are tatoos of the fearless
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There is one issue not mentioned steering wheel squeeek. Turn the wheel and there is a squeky scraping sound. Ford had a special lube for the slip rings on the back of the wheel. Special in that it is a conductive lube/grease. From what I have learned so far one version was replaced by another which was then obsoleated. Some searching found what I believe to be a replacement. Ordered and waiting for deliverlyScars are tatoos of the fearless
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