8.8 rebuild and new gears

[sly]

This is why I will save up and pay a local performance shop that has an awesome rep to get the gears right.

and I'm lazy that way.

I'm not a real fan of B&M, but they do make good stuff. Can't argue with the quality most of the time. This should come out good in the end I think.

[turbo2256b]

New issue the right side caliper bracket is too close to the rotor. Took some measurements has to be the axle hsg to flange, the axle length, carrier, carrier shimming. Will have to remove the brakes to check some of the mentioned possible issues all else seems to check out. One solution might be to shim the caliper bracket away from the rotor about a washer thickness or 2.

[turbo2256b]

Took some measurements today of the axle flange face to the housing end flange


As far as i know ours are supposed to be 2.50"



LEFT -------------------------------------------------------------------------RIGHT

Axle movement in and out
-------------------------------------------Difference L/R
2.462 out------------------------------------.076------------------------------------2.385
2.420 -IN -----------------------------------.075-------------------------------------2.346
__________________________________________________ _________________________________
.042-----------------------------------------.003-------------------------------------.039 Difference

2.500 Nom---------------------------------------------------------------------------2.500
2.441 Nom---------------------------------------------------------------------------2.366
__________________________________________________ ________________________________
.059-----------------------------------------.075------------------------------------.134 Difference

[turbo2256b]

Issues with the B&M cover.

First is the counter sunk bolt holes would have been nicer if they were a bit larger in dia. Especially the load bolt ones only a socket will work on the load bolt nut that locks the position.

The big problem is the load bolt pad and how it attaches to the bolt. Was warned of it in a review in Summit Racing wasnt sure why at the time but was ready for it.

The load bolt screws into the pad its a left hand thread so one has to make sure it on all the way. Screwing in the load bolt to contact the main cap it could fall off. So beware.



I think the Moser cover they are crimped into the pad socket

[turbo2256b]

I hapen to have some left over 5/16 x 1 1/4" 12 pint ARP bolts and decided to use them to attach the cover. Stock bolt shown is a 1" allen head allen heads bug me they strip the wrench or socket eventually. To use the ARP had to grind down the edge a bit to the dia of the washers B&M supplied. Washer shown on the longer ARP bolt. Also bottom tapped all the bolt holes in the HSG. One plus to this is the grinding of the bolt flange took all the play out of the sliding around of the cover as the stock bolts would allow. Less chance of the cover loosing seal if jacked up under the center section.

[lincolnlarry]

I did have to do some washer shim on mine also to get the caliper in line with the disk.
Even with the Ford gears I had the dang thing apart about 6 times to get it where I wanted it. Was my first time setting up gears. I think those gears would have given me a nervous breakdown!!! I have my fingers crossed right with ya!!!

[His Royal Ghostliness]

I did have to do some washer shim on mine also to get the caliper in line with the disk.
Even with the Ford gears I had the dang thing apart about 6 times to get it where I wanted it. Was my first time setting up gears. I think those gears would have given me a nervous breakdown!!! I have my fingers crossed right with ya!!!

At least it's not a Dana axle - not only are their side shims sandwiched between the carrier and the bearings that are pressed onto it, but the pinion depth shims are in the housing under the big pinion bearing's outer race. Ok, you can either buy or make yourself some setup bearings for the carrier, but where the heck does one get a setup RACE for the effin pinion depth? And making one is nigh impossible for your typical driveway/backyard gearhead...

[turbo2256b]

Ewwokj3k

[turbo2256b]

sPOKE WITH wILWOOD TODAY ABOUT AXLE OFFSET and shimming between axle flange and rotor they oked the spacer. Found a company that will make me hub concentric spacers just have to give them dimensions.
Proved the axle offset should be 2.50 and took some more accurate measurements going through a bunch of math tomorrow to make a decision on thicness of spacers.

Above was a post from my newest rescued kitten.

[turbo2256b]

After a bunch more calculations figuring the 2.50 axle offset being at max , min then nominal positions including end play decided to go with nominal position.
Ended up needing a .050 spacer between the axle and caliper on the left side and a .110 spacer on the right. Found Wilwood makes a .080 spacer center hole was just a bit too large (3.2 VS NEEDED 3.08) but worked out ok with the centering ring for the disc. tHE SPACER TURNED OUT TO BE a bit over .090. So shimmed the right side to center the caliper on the rotor. The left side however needs a thinner shim between the caliper and its mount to center it to the rotor it will work though.
Decided to if the gears work out alright as far as noise goes might go with custom shims between the rotors and axle flange. Further figured to make the shims a bit better in cost and still be within tolerance it might be best to go with sheet stock sizes .062 on the and .125 on the right. Most of the time these stock thicknesses are at min thickness.

Rear is fully assembled now thinking of best way of hooking up brake lines and emergency brake cables. Swap into creamy wont happen for a month or so as have to finish up some stuff on the fiat to get it out of the way.

[His Royal Ghostliness]

This is rather interesting that you're running into that kinda issues. But I suppose it's normal since axles are laterally located by the diff... That'd be another reason to like full-floaters, hub sits where it sits and you can do center section work to your heart's content and won't even have to pull the wheels off

[turbo2256b]

The more one makes a 8.8 similar to a 9" the better it is but that can only go so far.

[turbo2256b]

Assembled

[His Royal Ghostliness]

Well if you convert to them press-on bearings like the 9" has then you wouldn't need the C-clips inside the diff (hence why them kits are called C-clip eliminators), and so you can cut the shafts down and have ample room to move the carrier around without its cross shaft touching the axle shafts. Right?

[turbo2256b]

Most of the C-clip eliminators are approved by drag racing sanction events they are not for road racing SCCA events think there is one conversion that is other than cutting the ends off and welding on 9" ends. If I WAS TO DO THAT i believe one of the big rear end companies has a full floater set up they recently began to market.