Frankenstein T-5 Waggin' Chronicle (vast doesnt do it)

[Freshmeat]

The thermostat housing bolt IS a pain, but it's no big deal.
...and I've settled to put a wrench on the spark plug socket. No pulling the headers every time. Not sure how the thread carried on so far after it was stated how to do it so easily...

then, again, I'm cranky.

[Freshmeat]

Bling bling, Bitches. :worship: :worship:
Here is the adustable fuel pressure regulator I scored free. Notice the different shaft on top. It's a hollow screw. If I understand correctly, the screw adjusts the vacuum going to the regulator, which in turn defines the fuel pressure.
I'm sorry they're so fuzzy. These are the best of 17 pictures I took. My camera is apparently not that good for small stuff- it keeps focusing to the background.

[Freshmeat]

I stayed home from work today. I feel like Hell. I have a really bad cold or flu and my heartburn is flaring up like it hasn't done in a long time.
I'm hoping to get a lot done on the motor, though... only problem is going to be Andree. She's here and won't let me do anything because she says I need to rest.:nonono:
Fucking women. I mean... uh... :worship:
The only reason I was able to type this is because she fell asleep and I snuck out of the room. :banana:

[Freshmeat]

WTF is this stuff?

This is primarily the vacuum jungle on the passenger side... I think it's all random vacuum bullshit... but I don't want to eliminate it without asking a second opinion. There are small wiring connectors on some of the parts. Would it adversely affect the computer to disconnect/eliminate these?

[mrltd]

EGR/Air pump soleniods. There is a diagram that includes those parts on the rad shroud....

[Freshmeat]

So, if I'm deleting both EGR and air pump, I can ditch them?

[mrltd]

Yeah.

[Freshmeat]

Clicky
Apparently, the EGR provides a .24-.67 volt signal when closed. Using a .5 volt resistor would allow the computer to read the EGR as closed and take care of any problems with the computer trying to find the EGR stuff.
I'm gonna go see if I can find what I need at the parts store.

[mrltd]

Resistors aren't rated by voltage....they are rated by resistance.

You would have to either measure the resistance of the sensor in it's normal running position, or do the math to come out with the .5 volts.

[Freshmeat]

Well... I forgot I was supposed to get a resistor when I went to the store. What do I need to do in order to ensure that a .24-.67 volt signal is returning to the computer?

[mrltd]

I'd need more info...I'd have to go through my ford books at home....If you have a meter, measure the resistance across the sensor....

[88grandmarq]

Before you go ripping out the EGR and related parts, you should read this............

I found this posted on corral.net. So, if you got a EGR code (31,32,33,34 or 35) and have crappy MPG, this might explain why.
This also applies to all you guys who think blocking off the EGR "improves" performance.

Quote:
"you shouldn't run the block-off unless you're either not running EGR or there's an alternate supply for it, because...

...the fuel management strategy assumes the presence of a functioning EGR system and you'll get an overly lean part-throttle cruise if you block it off and don't have a chip tune to tell the computer not to...and when you have a lean part-throttle cruise, the EEC picks that information up from the O2 sensors and adds fuel. But it doesn't just add fuel to part-throttle cruise operation, it adds compensating fuel even during open-loop (non-O2-feedback) conditions such as startup, idle, and WOT.

Short story is since the EEC assumes a functioning EGR, and if you haven't instructed it otherwise, you're setting yourself up for rich running and resulting performance/driveability issues by blocking off its flow."

[gadget73]

Leave the EGR alone. It really doesn't hurt anything. Dump the air pump. New motors don't have an air pump anyway. I would leave the solenoids in place at a minimum so the system doesn't set a trouble code about it not being there.

[Freshmeat]

That's what the resistor does. It "sends a signal" indicating a "closed EGR", so the computer doesn't expect the gases to be there. The EGR sensor works on a resistance format, much like most fuel level sending units, oil pressure sending units, etc.

[Freshmeat]

I'm not running EGR. The P motor had an external EGR system and it drew from the exhaust manifold. Running the EGR would require a bung to be installed into my exhaust pipes. Too much hassle when I can just run a resistor and let the computer "think" its closed.