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1989 Grand Marquis ECM removal

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    I haven’t given it much throttle yet but I’ll try next time it starts. And I’ll check for codes real quick.

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      Alright, threw out code 23 and code 63 (Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Below Minimum Voltage) and when I started it the idle was high as I’ve ever heard an idle then it shut off after 4 secs.

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        can you keep it running with the throttle? If the IAC is sticky it might open too far, then slam shut and stall. If it can be kept running with some throttle, it sounds like things are basically working and its an idle control issue.

        aftermarket IAC can also do stupid things, but most of the time you can just flush out the originals with some brakleen or carb cleaner and have them work properly again.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

        Comment


          Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
          can you keep it running with the throttle? If the IAC is sticky it might open too far, then slam shut and stall. If it can be kept running with some throttle, it sounds like things are basically working and its an idle control issue.

          aftermarket IAC can also do stupid things, but most of the time you can just flush out the originals with some brakleen or carb cleaner and have them work properly again.
          If you are going to spray the IAC (I'd get a new one and OEM) make certain to have the motor half facing up as you do NOT want any chemicals seeping into it!
          What I Own: 1993 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
          What I Help Maintain: 1996 CV / 1988 CV / 1988 Tempo

          Comment


            Originally posted by friskyfrankie View Post

            If you are going to spray the IAC (I'd get a new one and OEM) make certain to have the motor half facing up as you do NOT want any chemicals seeping into it!
            I’ve sprayed out the IAC and I think I may have messed it up because it was not half facing up. I faced it downwards after so and excess brake cleaner could make its way out. But wouldn’t it throw codes for the IAC? Or does this issue get overlooked by the ECM?

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              Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
              can you keep it running with the throttle? If the IAC is sticky it might open too far, then slam shut and stall. If it can be kept running with some throttle, it sounds like things are basically working and its an idle control issue.

              aftermarket IAC can also do stupid things, but most of the time you can just flush out the originals with some brakleen or carb cleaner and have them work properly again.
              I’m also about to see if I can get it started now and if so I’ll give it some throttle. I believe last time I gave it some throttle there was no high idle afterwards. Also seen your post about you saying holding the throttle 1/8ths open to start it.
              Edit: cleaned IAC and started it. I gave it some throttle but it seems like nothing changed when I did, it was stalling from the start. Checked codes and still 23 and 63. Also got a code that was just “1” no follow up. Don’t know what that is, since “11” is the clear code.
              Last edited by monotonorobo; 11-17-2023, 09:29 PM.

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                Have you back-probed the TPS to measure closed voltage? I think the acceptable value is like 0.6v-1.2v, but preferably setting it around the 0.9v range is a great medium for closed throttle, and you want to ensure at wide open it's around a minimum of 4.1-4.3v IIRC.

                Codes 23 and 63 imply an improperly adjusted/failed TPS. Obviously check first before replacing the sensor.


                My Cars:
                -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
                -1979 Ford LTD Landau (38K Miles) - New Cruiser

                -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
                -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (343K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
                -1997 Grand Marquis LS (244K Miles) - March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner - Sold (05/2011 - 07/2024)

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                  Yeah I didn’t know of the probing thing till like 2 days ago and I wasn’t really feeling good yesterday. I’ll check today but I have a non-adjustable OEM one band thought if I fiddled with it, it wouldn’t do much, which I did.

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                    they aren't really adjustable but if its installed wrong it won't read in range. It doesn't go straight on, you have to put it on there so the tabs on the sensor engage on the tang on top of the throttle blade, and you rotate it slightly to line up the screws. If its just put straight on, the sensor will not engage with the throttle blade and won't read. The voltmeter will tell you, it won't be in range and the voltage will not change.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                    Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by Kodachrome Wolf View Post
                      Have you back-probed the TPS to measure closed voltage? I think the acceptable value is like 0.6v-1.2v, but preferably setting it around the 0.9v range is a great medium for closed throttle, and you want to ensure at wide open it's around a minimum of 4.1-4.3v IIRC.

                      Codes 23 and 63 imply an improperly adjusted/failed TPS. Obviously check first before replacing the sensor.
                      Alright, drilled into the TPS to make the holes bigger for adjustment and I set it at 0.9 Volts closed. Code 23 has gone away and I got a clear, but code 63 still remains. I tried to check open by putting a brick on the gas but I don’t think it was all the way on it so I’ll check it later with someone else.

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                        just open the throttle by moving the lever under the throttle body. verify the voltage goes up when you do.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                          just open the throttle by moving the lever under the throttle body. verify the voltage goes up when you do.
                          Forgot to come back and say I already did that it was 4.6 Volts fully open and I had to get it to 1.0 volts closed to get 4.6. Maybe I have a MAP sensor problem again like you mentioned before. I’ll check the sensor first because I want to avoid the hassle that is the intake. Then I’ll check the lines.
                          Edit: Forgot to say code 63 is still there.
                          Last edited by monotonorobo; 11-19-2023, 02:36 PM.

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                            Got it down to .9 volts and checked MAP. All seems well in that regard. And pulled some plugs and it seems one is barely firing. The first one is Cylinder #1, second is #2, third #5, fourth is #6. The fuel is rich because I smell it whenever I crank it. There’s also black smoke coming out the exhaust. Someone else I asked thinks I have bad injectors.
                            Attached Files

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                              Pull the oil dipstick and see if it is overfull and smells like gas. WagonMan
                              89 Colony Park
                              90 Colony Park
                              70 HEMI Daytona Convertible

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                                +1... gas in the oil would indicate stupid rich mix and injectors stuck open.

                                Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                                rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                                Originally posted by gadget73
                                ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                                Originally posted by dmccaig
                                Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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