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Alternator on it's deathbed?

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    Alternator on it's deathbed?

    tl;dr

    Lost electrical power on the road. All accessories dead or dying; thankfully the engine kept going. Amp light flickering dimly at best.

    Alternator assumed to be cause, as it is original and has 400,000k on it.

    After five hours on a charger and 15 minutes on the road, the alternator appeared to be producing a charge again. I am confused.


    So I'm driving around tonight and some asshole pulled out a little too far trying leave a parking lot. I had to nudge over a little to make sure I cleared his ignorant ass. I should have just ripped his nose right off, because I could of, but I'm a nice guy and that's not how I roll.

    However, I did feel the need to communicate my dismay to this gentlemen, so I hit the horn button.

    ...Nothing happened.

    I hit the other horn button, and this time something did happen. It was quiet. The horn didn't blast at all. It didn't make a sound. But my radio died.

    This signalled an alarm bell inside my brain. This alarm bell brought two key memories to my attention.

    1. My alternator is the only original assembly on the car and is wearing all of the car's ~400,000 kms.

    2. I have noticed the turn signal operates (as in clicks and turns on and off) very slowly at idle over the last few days.

    So I tried the horn again. The radio turned off again. I kept it off. I decided that my alternator probably died some time ago and the car's been running off the battery - which is now also on it's last legs.

    As the drive went on I started losing more things. My turn signal now did not work. The light would turn on, and stay on - not blink or flash, as an effective signal should.

    My clock display went very, very dim. My power window was extremely slow. My headlights went dim too. Very dim, to a point where I could see them on the backs of cars, not off the road.

    There was a point, shortly after I lowered the window, where my gas gauge quit. It went went from a three quarter tank to brimming full. My headlights were NOT working at all. I probably lost my brake lights.

    Thankfully this only lasted for about a minute. My gas gauge came back to life, and my headlights did too - but I was still clearly operating on minimal power.

    Thankfully none of the major components went out. My steering and brakes were fine (hooray for hydraulic assemblies!), and my engine, while down on power, didn't show any signs of imminent death.

    When I pulled into my friend's driveway, I noticed the amperage warning light came on - or, flickered. Dimly. Barely.

    You know things are bad when the low power light doesn't have any power.

    So I assumed my alternator finally bit the dust. Which is a pain in the ass, because it's Easter weekend and I'm gonna have to wait for pretty much anything.

    So I hooked up a slow battery charge and left it for 5 or 6 hours. I've since borrowed this charger and a quick boost thing, just in case.

    Shortly after I arrived, I had to start the car again to move it up three feet so the charger would reach the battery. It was REALLY slow to start, but it did start - which kinda surprised me.

    I checked all the connections I could, everything I could see and check looked fine.

    So that just means my alternator's dead and I need a new one, right?

    No.

    After the drive home I don't know what to think.

    So I pulled it off the charger, it fired up okay, and I set off for home. No radio. Minimal dashboard lighting. No smoking (no windows). No fans. Minimal power consumption on my part. I tested the turn signals; they were slow, but they worked. I'm praying there's enough charge in it to sneak me home.

    Here's where I get lost.

    So about 15 minutes into the trip I try the horn. It beeps.

    Then the CHECK ENGINE light comes on.

    THEN everything works great. Windows are quick, blinkers blink steadily, even the wipers on maximum attack worked fine. High beams are bright, fog lights are too.

    Even at idle.

    ....what the hell is going on?

    #2
    i had similar promblems. found ground connectoins bad. ran few new cables form frame to variuos body panels ( innerfender,cab)

    Comment


      #3
      as said check all your connestions, all your grounds, and especially connections at the starter selenoid
      something to think about, the alternator wont work correctly without a good battery

      reguardless, I would look into 3g 130amp alernator upgrade, it really is probably the first mod anyone should do, it can be done for $25 at the junkyard

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by jayh View Post

        reguardless, I would look into 3g 130amp alernator upgrade, it really is probably the first mod anyone should do, it can be done for $25 at the junkyard
        I was just thinking that when I read the thread. If you aren't too thrilled about using a junkyard alternator, you can find them at a parts store brand new, and they usually come with a lifetime warranty, which means if it goes bad, free alternator!

        EDIT: But they are not cheap
        Last edited by hemihotrod402; 04-02-2010, 10:37 AM.
        Parts Car (Scrapped ) - Vicky - 1987 LTD Crown Victoria: 17x8 Gunmetal Gray Coys C-5 wheels, 235/55-17 Falken Ziex ZE-502 tires. 79 LTD Grille, Taillights, and Turn Signals, Blue LED Dash Lights, PI Rear Sway Bar, 140 MPH Speedometer, Dual Exhaust w/ Mustang Headers.
        New Project: Vicky II - 1981 Ford LTD: 61,XXX miles, virtually rust free. Currently For Sale

        Comment


          #5
          Check all your connections, but the plugs on the side of the alternator are known to get flaky, and the brushes also will wear out in the alternator. Either will cause intermittant charging problems, but so will crudded up battery terminals, grounds, and connections at the starter relay. With 250k miles on it, and if its the original alternator, its more than served it's purpose. Most people don't get half that mileage out of the stock alternators before they fail.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Comment


            #6
            i would suspect a flaky alt harness and a dying alt.......dont play around with it, the wiring is known to catch on fire

            i would do a 3ag conversion

            1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
            2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
            1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
            1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
            2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
            1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

            please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

            Comment


              #7
              that many kms on a stock 2g alternator must be a record of some kind haha
              sigpic


              - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

              - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

              - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

              Comment


                #8
                Update:

                1. Thanks for all the responses guys. You rock.

                2. I think I've narrowed it down, and potentially found the culprit of last night's failure.

                Today, while I was hunting around with my Dad for any bad connections, two things came up:

                -There was a plug coming out of the alternator that was *disgusting.* I have never seen so much electrical cheese in my entire life. I didn't think it was the culprit of last nights problem, because there's no way that much garbage could build up over night, but I cleaned it up anyway, because that couldn't be helping things.

                -On Monday I took the car into a shop for an oil change. While I was there, I had them throw on some new battery terminals/leads (the connections to the battery, not the battery itself) because my old ones were shot to sh1t.

                They did a shoddy job. When they trimmed the negative cable (because it was bad), they went in too deep with the wire strippers and lost a lot of copper in the process. The amount of actual cable hitting the negative terminal was about half of what it should have been.

                This could explain why it started to die on me. The thinner power pipe meant the alternator wasn't able to supply a sufficient charge to the battery, and the battery couldn't deal with it anymore - but that would explain why there was still just enough charge to keep the engine turning.

                So I fixed that and it seems to be better now. The amperage being delivered still appears to be on the low side, but it's not problematically low and most importantly, it's consistent. I can run with the radio and lights and horn simultaneously and it works.

                So a new/rebuilt alternator is definitely in the cards, but its not an absolutely urgent thing like I was worrying it was yesterday.

                Might need to look at a battery too. I'll find a multimeter tomorrow and narrow down the health of the battery... or I'll just wait until I get a fresh alternator and see how it behaves.

                Either way, situation is under control, and I sincerely appreciate your help guys.

                What goes into 3AG swap? It can't be just as simple as dropping a Taurus alternator in, can it?

                Also - my friend's father recommended a place that will rebuild an alternator for a very reasonable price. New core, new brushes, repacked bearings... he's been to them before. He said they'd toss in a higher output core if I opted for it... would that work or would it start to cook things?

                Comment


                  #9
                  for the 130amp 3AG upgrade you find the small or large case alternator you need (depends on cars options and engine) then run a 4 gauge charge cable with a mega fuse to the positive battery post or starter solenoid. Chop out the stator wire from the existing three plugged charge cable and plug it into the lone slot on the new alternator. and take the yellow wire our of the voltage regulator and connect it on the alternators charge post.
                  ~David~

                  My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                  My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                  Originally posted by ootdega
                  My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                  Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                  But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                  Originally posted by gadget73
                  my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                  Comment


                    #10
                    Its almost a drop-in. If you can handle replacing battery terminals and changing an alternator, you can swap the thing out.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Replacing the alternator took me a 3 hours or so, and it was essentially the first thing I ever had to replace on a car, and I had no mechanical skills whatsoever. I now have very minimal skills

                      Someone who isn't a fuckup could have it done way quicker than I did.
                      sigpic


                      - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                      - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                      - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by 1990LTD View Post
                        Replacing the alternator took me a 3 hours or so, and it was essentially the first thing I ever had to replace on a car, and I had no mechanical skills whatsoever. I now have very minimal skills

                        Someone who isn't a fuckup could have it done way quicker than I did.
                        Swapped mine out in 15 minutes. Stock to stock, no upgrade.
                        "Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
                        1985 GMC 1500

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I done the upgrade. Took me two and a half hours. I like having everything look like it was stock so everything is well hidden or factory looking.





                          ~David~

                          My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                          My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                          Originally posted by ootdega
                          My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                          Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                          But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                          Originally posted by gadget73
                          my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                          Comment

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