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    Low fuel warning light

    My low fuel light stays on as the gauge doesn't work. Can I just unplug the low fuel sensor that is over the glove box? Will that affect anything else?
    89 CV LX 225/60 x 16 tires, CC819 rear springs, Front & rear sway bar, trans & PS cooler from 90 cop car. KYB shocks, F-150 on rear. Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe. Dark brown door panels, carpet, steering wheel, trim parts from a 87 Mer GM. Power front buckets from 96 Jeep Cherokee. LED'S front & rear. 3G Alt from a 97 Taurus wagon 3.0. Electric fan. Rear axle from a 97 PI 3.27 with disk brakes. Headlight relays.

    #2
    The gauge doesn't work? Or it reads empty all the time?

    This happened to me... the float on the fuel level sending unit developed a hairline crack, and over time, it flooded with fuel, causing it to sink.... causing the gauge to always read empty and the low fuel light to always be on. Pretty easy and cheap fix... just use up most of your fuel (If memory serves right, the sending unit is right about mid-way up the total height of the tank) so that when you pull the sending unit out, fuel doesn't gush out. And then replace the float, or if you're REALLY cheap, get the fuel out and patch the crack.

    But seriously, I went to the FORD DEALERSHIP and bought floats... and it was only around $5, seems like they came in a 2 pack also. So with 2 floats, you'll be set for another 40 years!

    Oh, and always be safe on this type of thing... you don't want fuel in your eyes. This sounds like a common sense thing, but I figured I'd point it out anyway.... be sure to wear eye protection.

    Comment


      #3
      the low fuel light won't cause the gauge to not read. If the gauge reads empty, usually its something related to the sending unit in the tank. The light will just come on because the gauge is getting a signal to show empty. You can unplug the low fuel module if you want but all that will do is shut the light off.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks! The gauge is on E all the time. It has been that way for a few years, I just haven't got around to fixing it. I was looking for a vac leak for the A/C and found the low fuel module. I just wanted to get the light out.
        89 CV LX 225/60 x 16 tires, CC819 rear springs, Front & rear sway bar, trans & PS cooler from 90 cop car. KYB shocks, F-150 on rear. Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe. Dark brown door panels, carpet, steering wheel, trim parts from a 87 Mer GM. Power front buckets from 96 Jeep Cherokee. LED'S front & rear. 3G Alt from a 97 Taurus wagon 3.0. Electric fan. Rear axle from a 97 PI 3.27 with disk brakes. Headlight relays.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
          the low fuel light won't cause the gauge to not read. If the gauge reads empty, usually its something related to the sending unit in the tank. The light will just come on because the gauge is getting a signal to show empty. You can unplug the low fuel module if you want but all that will do is shut the light off.


          indeed - when my fuel gauge was FUBAR the low fuel indicator still worked. i'd fill it and drive til that thing came on and fill it again. i realize 89 and 90 are vastly different in terms of electronics but that's how mine works at least.
          sigpic


          - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

          - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

          - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

          Comment


            #6
            depends what part screws up. If its the gauge itself, then the low fuel light works normally. If the sender is shot, then the gauge and the low fuel light both tell you that you're out of gas. If its a ground on the low fuel light module, then the light stays on and the gauge works normally. Towncars seem to have problems with the grounds on the low fuel lamp, and once in a while you have to clean the plug off on the module. The fact that it sits right next to the gas pedal likely does not help. I've actually gotten to the point where I know where to stick my shoe to fix the idiot light if it screws up while driving.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment


              #7
              I think you told me about that and it's how I diagnosed the gauge and not the sending unit.
              sigpic


              - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

              - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

              - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

              Comment


                #8
                It's in the sending unit, as the gauge is on E and the light is on all the time.
                89 CV LX 225/60 x 16 tires, CC819 rear springs, Front & rear sway bar, trans & PS cooler from 90 cop car. KYB shocks, F-150 on rear. Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe. Dark brown door panels, carpet, steering wheel, trim parts from a 87 Mer GM. Power front buckets from 96 Jeep Cherokee. LED'S front & rear. 3G Alt from a 97 Taurus wagon 3.0. Electric fan. Rear axle from a 97 PI 3.27 with disk brakes. Headlight relays.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Glen View Post
                  It's in the sending unit, as the gauge is on E and the light is on all the time.
                  It's not that hard to replace the float. You can get the float and the seal for like 10 bucks at your local ford dealership. Cheapest stuff I ever bought at a dealership.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I think Scott said the float has like a 1960s part number so that's probably why
                    sigpic


                    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                    Comment


                      #11
                      It's pretty simple if you look at it. It's like a hallow metal cylinder with like solder holding it together.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        From 1989 Vacuum & Electrical Manual

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                          #13
                          Where is this and what does it look like in an 88? I was messing around under the dashboard the other night and when I finished my Low Fuel light was on. I guess I messed up the ground somehow.


                          sigpic
                          - 2004 Ford Thunderbird - 2006 Ford F150 XLT - 2018 Ford Explorer Limited - 1958 Mercury Medalist

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I seem to remember it being somewhere behind the radio area. Its a blue box.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Alrighty, didn't mess with anything that far.

                              Light came off when I filled up the tank, seemed that it came on insanely early, around a half tank. Hoping it was just a fluke.


                              sigpic
                              - 2004 Ford Thunderbird - 2006 Ford F150 XLT - 2018 Ford Explorer Limited - 1958 Mercury Medalist

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