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Delco CS144 Alternator

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    Delco CS144 Alternator

    So Ive been driving my 81 LTD since Tuesday, and yesterday, it was showing signs of a non-operable alternator. I got it home, and just opening the door, the dome light was enough to kill the engine.

    I charged the battery last night, drove it to work, between locations, and to the parts store. They put their tool on my battery and said my regular was trash. I pulled the alternator and had it tested just to be sure. It checked out fine. I bought a regulator, and it didnt do any good.

    I had power at the alternator lead with the engine off, so I know its not a fusible link.

    I have a Delco CS144 alternator just sitting on my shelf off of a Cadillac. I got to measuring, and its so close, I just cant resist.

    Im going to drive it again tomorrow and Saturday as-is, but once I get home Saturday, its going under the knife.

    Has anybody else done a Delco alternator swap? If so, Id like to see what info you have. It looks pretty straight forward, but I wouldnt mind seeing what someone else has to say.
    YOU CAN NEVER HAVE ENOUGH RUBBER!!Just too much sheet metal!
    -1969 Nissan Patrol(5.2L/NP435/NP208/D44HD/D60FF)
    -1981 Ford LTD(5.0L/AOD/8.8)
    -2001 Ford Escape(2.0L/M5)
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    #2
    I've read of people swapping on GM one-wire alternators. Seems they key things were having a compatible pulley and getting it in the right spot! I think the author of the page I read may have made a spacer for one of the mounting positions, but I don't remember it being anything super-special.
    2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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      #3
      is that an internally regulated 3 wire Delco alternator? Charge output stud, battery sense wire, and an ignition switched turn-on wire ? If so, the wiring is pretty simple. Output stud goes to battery, same as the Ford alternator. The battery sense wire is the B terminal on the existing external regulator, or you can cheat and tie it to the output stud on the back of the alternator. The turn-on wire is the green/red wire on the I terminal of the existing regulator. Assuming the pulleys fit and line up proper, it ought to charge.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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        #4
        I installed it sunday, and realized today I had the amp light write and the excite wires swapped around. I had to drill the pivot hole out to 7/16, added a one inch spacer behind the case on the pivot hole, and had to widen the adjusting slot 1/4 inch upward. Easy peasy.
        YOU CAN NEVER HAVE ENOUGH RUBBER!!Just too much sheet metal!
        -1969 Nissan Patrol(5.2L/NP435/NP208/D44HD/D60FF)
        -1981 Ford LTD(5.0L/AOD/8.8)
        -2001 Ford Escape(2.0L/M5)
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          #5
          Pics!!!
          Btw, in your signature, you sure you have an 8.8 in the rear of your '81? Don't the early models have 7.5s?

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            #6
            Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post
            Pics!!!
            Btw, in your signature, you sure you have an 8.8 in the rear of your '81? Don't the early models have 7.5s?
            You mean 8.5 ... same as an 8.8 IIRC except for the gears and maybe the carrier. They work fine, but gear and Trak-Lok availability is a problem.
            2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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