I have a 1990 colony park with a wonky fuel gauge; I've asked about it before.
I had a 1989 electrical diagram.
None of my measurements made any sense!
Just yesterday I received my 1990 electrical/vacuum manual in the mail.
Sure enough, the resistance values at the sending unit are very different indeed from 1989.
Full is 160ohms, empty is 20ohms.
My measured values are full 190 ohms, 2gallons left is 60ohms.
So the sending unit is off a little bit. It would explain why even when my gauge seemed to be working, it should show superfull = full, and 1/4 tank = empty.
Worth replacing? How hard is it to do? Cost is $100 in parts. I think it's easy to access; don't need to drop the tank?
Now, the gauge still doesn't respond correctly when grounded out (does not show empty, does not move at all), so I'm going to buy a cluster at the junkyard or from mrltd anyway and at least write that off as no longer a problem...
One last issue/question though.
The 1989 manual shows the hot going to the sender as going through a voltage regulator, regulated to 5V average, modulated voltage.
The 1990 manual doesn't show anything of the sort: it goes to the anti-slosh solid-state black box, then to the sending unit, but says nothing about modulated 5v averaged current.
Do you know if it's supposed to be 12V then?
'Cause when I measured it on two occasions, it was 8.04V rock steady.
SO I'm wondering if low voltage is yet another issue.
Not that that would explain why grounding out the sending unit wire wouldn't show the gauge as empty, unless, I need to hold it grounded for a while before it registers?
I had a 1989 electrical diagram.
None of my measurements made any sense!
Just yesterday I received my 1990 electrical/vacuum manual in the mail.
Sure enough, the resistance values at the sending unit are very different indeed from 1989.
Full is 160ohms, empty is 20ohms.
My measured values are full 190 ohms, 2gallons left is 60ohms.
So the sending unit is off a little bit. It would explain why even when my gauge seemed to be working, it should show superfull = full, and 1/4 tank = empty.
Worth replacing? How hard is it to do? Cost is $100 in parts. I think it's easy to access; don't need to drop the tank?
Now, the gauge still doesn't respond correctly when grounded out (does not show empty, does not move at all), so I'm going to buy a cluster at the junkyard or from mrltd anyway and at least write that off as no longer a problem...
One last issue/question though.
The 1989 manual shows the hot going to the sender as going through a voltage regulator, regulated to 5V average, modulated voltage.
The 1990 manual doesn't show anything of the sort: it goes to the anti-slosh solid-state black box, then to the sending unit, but says nothing about modulated 5v averaged current.
Do you know if it's supposed to be 12V then?
'Cause when I measured it on two occasions, it was 8.04V rock steady.
SO I'm wondering if low voltage is yet another issue.
Not that that would explain why grounding out the sending unit wire wouldn't show the gauge as empty, unless, I need to hold it grounded for a while before it registers?
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