Well, I've never had many electrical wiring issues in my box. Just one short; no opens, no other shorts, no high-resistance contacts.
I had my LF window motor fail on me, and I'd just replaced it 20 months ago. The original made it 20 years, so this shouldn't be normal.
I open up the door panel, check the switch (battery V at the contacts, and -battery V the other way), and proceed to replace the motor.
Nothing. Nada. Oops.... bad motor? Check ITS resistance, I think it was like 14 ohms, so ought to be functional.
Turned out, after a bit more head scratching, that the aftermarket harness had just enough corrosion on the leads to fail to deliver the current. It showed battery voltage when I check with my 10,000,000 ohm voltmeter.
It probably dropped precipitously when it tried to deliver battery voltage, and much more current, to my 14 ohm motor!
The contacts are a white metal (nickel? aluminum? I dunno), and had minor surface corrosion: looked dull rather than bright, like galvanized steel left in the rain for a bit of time, or an old aluminum cooking pot.
Nothing spectacularly corroded, blooming with "green growies" or the like.
But, a new connector on the motor side did the trick, so must've been.
The contacts even looked OK, too-- not spread or twisted, so they should have been making contact, and obviously were making some contact to show voltage, just couldn't deliver the current.
So I'm wondering if it's just a cheap dorman connector with shitty alloys that's at fault here? How would you solve it, then? Hard wire the motor with a solder joint; or mummify the connector in electrical tape...?
Squirt silicone into the back of the connector to seal the wires from moisture at least in that direction?
I'm just worried than in another 20 months I'll be playing this game again. Maybe even with some of my other window motors, all of which have been replaced at this point.
I noticed that my RR window motor needed help getting started up again, after I bottomed it with the switch....
I had my LF window motor fail on me, and I'd just replaced it 20 months ago. The original made it 20 years, so this shouldn't be normal.
I open up the door panel, check the switch (battery V at the contacts, and -battery V the other way), and proceed to replace the motor.
Nothing. Nada. Oops.... bad motor? Check ITS resistance, I think it was like 14 ohms, so ought to be functional.
Turned out, after a bit more head scratching, that the aftermarket harness had just enough corrosion on the leads to fail to deliver the current. It showed battery voltage when I check with my 10,000,000 ohm voltmeter.
It probably dropped precipitously when it tried to deliver battery voltage, and much more current, to my 14 ohm motor!
The contacts are a white metal (nickel? aluminum? I dunno), and had minor surface corrosion: looked dull rather than bright, like galvanized steel left in the rain for a bit of time, or an old aluminum cooking pot.
Nothing spectacularly corroded, blooming with "green growies" or the like.
But, a new connector on the motor side did the trick, so must've been.
The contacts even looked OK, too-- not spread or twisted, so they should have been making contact, and obviously were making some contact to show voltage, just couldn't deliver the current.
So I'm wondering if it's just a cheap dorman connector with shitty alloys that's at fault here? How would you solve it, then? Hard wire the motor with a solder joint; or mummify the connector in electrical tape...?
Squirt silicone into the back of the connector to seal the wires from moisture at least in that direction?
I'm just worried than in another 20 months I'll be playing this game again. Maybe even with some of my other window motors, all of which have been replaced at this point.
I noticed that my RR window motor needed help getting started up again, after I bottomed it with the switch....
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