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    #1

    How to get to dash lights?

    Hi everyone,

    In my 84 colony park wagon the left side of my "gauge" panel does not light up at night...I need to get to those bulbs but I don't have a shop manual...can someone tell me what I need to remove to replace those bulbs? I see the three screws on the underside of the dash...where are the others?

    Thanks!!
    1984 Mercury Colony Park Wagon - gone to the darkside. 5.3 LS Turbo Swap with 4L80E. 6.62@106 in the 1/8 mile (low 10's in the 1/4), full weight, AC, no compromises! Rocky Mountain Race Week 2020 and Race Week 2.0 2020
    Tags: None
    #2
    Have to pull the instrument cluster out. Pull the trim around the cluster out, then there are 5 or 6 screws holding the cluster itself in the das. You may have to jam your hand back in there to unhook the speedo cable to get it out far enough, and there is also a shift indicator cable that might be a problem. I'd refrain from touching that one unless you have no choice though. The collars tend to crack very easily. That unhooks from under the steering column. The shroud has to come off, and there is a white collar with a thin little wire that has to be undone from around the column.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

    Comment

      #3
      underside of the dash pad and that's it... the bottom is held in with clips (just pulls out). You'll have to take all the screws out of the dash (except the ones in the defrost vents) to allow the dash pad to come up a bit to clear the bezel. Then pull the top part out first and pry the bottom gently. I don't remember if those have the headlight switch separate or not. If that is in the way, you'll need to take the knob off (should be a set screw holding it on - see picture). once that's out of the way, there's 4 screws to get the cluster loose and you have to reach up and behind the cluster to disconnect the speedometer cable. It has a clip on connection and should just pull straight off when you figure out the leverage to disengage the clip. Then disconnect the electrical connector (pinch the end clips in) and let it rest face down on the steering column. You should have access to the bulbs now. Be careful with the little white cable for the gear indicator. If the cluster drops, that could be damaged. I highly suggest not removing it from the column if you don't have to as they are prone to breaking.
      Attached Files

      Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
      rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

      Originally posted by gadget73
      ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

      Originally posted by dmccaig
      Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

      Comment

        #4
        awesome - thanks guys. I do have that style headlight pull...mine has a collar on it for lights delay as well...hopefully all comes off the same. Do I have to remove the lower trim panels below the steering column? Sorry for all the questions - I really don't want to break anything...I've been known to do so in the heat of battle
        1984 Mercury Colony Park Wagon - gone to the darkside. 5.3 LS Turbo Swap with 4L80E. 6.62@106 in the 1/8 mile (low 10's in the 1/4), full weight, AC, no compromises! Rocky Mountain Race Week 2020 and Race Week 2.0 2020

        Comment

          #5
          the collar will just slide off once the knob is off. And no, you don't have to remove the panels below, but doing so may give easier access to the speedometer cable. The column itself can be left alone.

          No worries about the questions. Better to be well informed than to screw up and break it.

          Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
          rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

          Originally posted by gadget73
          ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

          Originally posted by dmccaig
          Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

          Comment

            #6
            Ok...I was just about to dive into the dash last night but as I started up the car and turned on the lights, one side of the dash (speedo) lit up. Then after 10 minutes of driving, the other side lit up for the first time in my ownership. Uh...I guess the bulbs aren't bad? Anyone point me in the right direction for what kind of short/issue might cut power to only the instrument lights? All other dash lights - radio/HVAC always work fine./...dimmer is working fine with no hitches or bad spots either...

            Thanks!!
            1984 Mercury Colony Park Wagon - gone to the darkside. 5.3 LS Turbo Swap with 4L80E. 6.62@106 in the 1/8 mile (low 10's in the 1/4), full weight, AC, no compromises! Rocky Mountain Race Week 2020 and Race Week 2.0 2020

            Comment

              #7
              the bulbs may be loose. Any short in that circuit and they'll all be out.

              Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
              rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

              Originally posted by gadget73
              ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

              Originally posted by dmccaig
              Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

              Comment

                #8
                hah, I always have trouble, too. I put in brand new bulbs and some weren't on. Does the printed circuit get worn out? Can I just paint conductive glue over the contacts or something to ensure good power transmission? Or does someone sell new printed circuits? [dare I hope! I probably don't dare]

                Comment

                  #9
                  probably loose or the connection is dirty. The instrument cluster has a big plug that feeds power to all that stuff, and the bulbs twist in to make contact with a copper foil trace on a piece of plastic. Both are subject to oxidation. I usually pull the bulbs out, bend the "fingers" on the bulb holders up a bit, and clean both the fingers and the copper contact with a pencil eraser to get it nice and shiny. Most of the time that fixes the light problems. If you want to prevent future issues, a light smear of dielectric grease on the copper contact points to seal oxygen out should help.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Comment

                    #10
                    I have the same problem with my 83 GM. Thanks for the advise. Sounds like a fairly easy fix.

                    Comment

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