The next time I change the wires, cap, and rotor, in my '86 Tudor, should I purchase the parts from Ford, or go after market from someone like MSD? I have never been one to go for anything but original as shipped from the factory, as I never had a problem.....and the old adage of "the point of diminishing returns" could very well be in play.
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I think my opinion is well known. I tend to USUALLY use OEM parts. Especially sensors and electrical/tune up parts. Even Motorcraft Oil filters...
"Hope and dignity are two things NO ONE can take away from you - you have to relinquish them on your own" Miamibob
"NEVER trade your passion for glory"!! Sal "the Bard" (Dear Old Dad!)
"Cars are for driving - PERIOD! I DON'T TEXT, TWEET OR TWERK!!!!" -
I've been burned by cheap no-name parts before. I only buy OEM or a good aftermarket brand now when I replace stuff. Except if I'm in a bind, then I'll go with Duralast because of their lifetime warranty on stuff.
Also, I'm with Bob. I always use a Motorcraft oil filter.
'78 LTD | '87 Grand Marquis | '89 Crown Vic (RIP) | '91 Grand Marquis (RIP) | '94 Town Car (RIP) | '97 Town Car (RIP)Comment
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Yep, I am a Ford parts fan. I use them when they are available. One thing to mention, though, Motorcraft doesn't mean Ford OEM. What comes on your car from the factory is often different than what the Motorcraft part is. One example - spark plug wires. I can buy a set of Motorcrafts, but they are not the same as the originals. Maybe equivalent use, but not exact. I know that's splitting hairs and maybe it doesn't matter if you don't have a show car, but still. I still prefer Motorcraft when I can get it over other aftermarket brand X.Last edited by LithiumCobalt; 12-05-2014, 03:31 PM.Nick
Past: 1967 Continental convertible, 1987 TC Cartier, 1996 TC DAE & Signature, 2002 LS V8, 2006 Zephyr, 2010 MKZ AWD, and many more.....
Current: 2010 F-150 Platinum Supercrew 4x4
Wanted: 1967 or 1969 Contnential sedan
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Oil filters, IAC's, EGR valves, most sensors, yes. Motorcraft. Stuff like alternators, starters, batteries, brake parts, etc I usually go with NAPA stuff. It hasn't let me down yet.1990 MGM: $50 E7 heads, HO cam, Holley SysteMAX lower intake, HO upper intake with an Explorer TB. LSC ECM. Lincoln logs into stock dual exhaust. K&N drop in air filter. Wide ratio AOD, 2400 converter with a 3.08 one tire fire out back. Car is less slow now. Then there's the '92 Beater. Dual 2.25" exhaust with shiny tips. Rumbles nice. Super slow. Burns oil too.Comment
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I have read enough, staying with Ford factory, I'll be at the dealer next week and order the wires cap rotor
Di-electric grease in all the boots??Comment
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Originally posted by Toploader View PostI have read enough, staying with Ford factory, I'll be at the dealer next week and order the wires cap rotor
Di-electric grease in all the boots??
Check out EBAY and Amazon, among others for best prices (unless you need the parts TODAY. Yes, on the grease but not inside the dizzy cap. I put a little, on the contact edge (not on the top, however), Both ends of the wires get it too!
"Hope and dignity are two things NO ONE can take away from you - you have to relinquish them on your own" Miamibob
"NEVER trade your passion for glory"!! Sal "the Bard" (Dear Old Dad!)
"Cars are for driving - PERIOD! I DON'T TEXT, TWEET OR TWERK!!!!"Comment
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I've never been super impressed with Motorcraft wires or distributor caps. The caps have aluminum terminals, and the wires are ho-hum. I've been OK with the Ford Racing wires for less coin and more blueness than the Motorshaft, and currently I've got a set of Taylor Spiro-Pro on the Towncar. Caps are usually Blue Streak if I can get them, but most anything with brass terminals is OK by me. Plugs I run Motorcraft.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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I like the ford racing wires too. they're nice. get at least the 8mm ones. The cap and rotor I have are brass terminal made in USA sold under the summit racing brand. The cap and rotor kit comes with that large rotor that some models need that uses screws to attache it (mine was stamped motorcraft if someone needs it, I may still have it).
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73Originally posted by dmccaigComment
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As far as Cap and rotor I use Accel with the brass terminals. Motorcraft has good stuff. Rock Auto. Ebay and Amazon may have what you are needing. Getting raped by the Ford dealer isn't on my to do list.
When Rock Auto has Motorcraft parts on a clearance sale, It is good to stock up. 
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Tom before I go to the Ford dealer, I contact GREEN Sales Company, they have had most of the NOS stuff for my Tudor that I have needed over the past ten yrs or so.Originally posted by Mainemantom View PostComment
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Hey Bob, it's 11:05, you should be sleeping, big day ahead for you tomorrow...........soak up the Florida sun...raining and cold up here, I may head south soon..thinking of driving the Tudor down to Hollywood.Originally posted by miamibob View PostComment
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Haven't been driving but still exhausted so going to bed REAL soon!
"Hope and dignity are two things NO ONE can take away from you - you have to relinquish them on your own" Miamibob
"NEVER trade your passion for glory"!! Sal "the Bard" (Dear Old Dad!)
"Cars are for driving - PERIOD! I DON'T TEXT, TWEET OR TWERK!!!!"Comment
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