Is this enough hose?

[knucklehead0202]

MAF only has an electrical connector to it. I pulled it out, cleaned the screen and hosed it all out with MAF cleaner. Smog shop I had it at last week said fuel pressure was good, MAF was good, EGR was good, etc, but my O2 sensors were scrap. Replaced those and it passed no problem. Still could have a vacuum leak though, damn it.

[gadget73]

Edit: I spent some of the money I saved on some solder and heat shrink tubing from the US so it actually gets here before I lose my goddamn mind from inactivity. The rest will be cushion money for the month.

yard sales. Solder prices are insane. Last I priced a pound of 60/40 or 63/37 rosin core it was like 40 bucks. The last roll of the stuff I found at a flea market was $7, and I've paid less than that for it. I'm sitting on about 4 lbs of the stuff currently, and I still buy it whenever it comes up cheap.

[sly]

the last pound roll of super 44 I got was $20. yeah... not planning to buy more for a long ass time.

[ootdega]

Hoses have been in for a few weeks now, and everything works better as a whole. For some reason the lifter tick went away, it goes and stops better, and I think it's getting better mileage. The air shocks keep pressure too.

It did chug a bit and shake when I was in the O'Reilly's parking lot, but it quit after I revved it a few times. It probably needs an oil change.

yard sales. Solder prices are insane. Last I priced a pound of 60/40 or 63/37 rosin core it was like 40 bucks. The last roll of the stuff I found at a flea market was $7, and I've paid less than that for it. I'm sitting on about 4 lbs of the stuff currently, and I still buy it whenever it comes up cheap.

I didn't know there were that many different kinds of it. I just got a tiny roll of whatever I could afford; I'm working on a computer project and making my own wiring from spare connectors off a power supply saves me time and money.

[gadget73]

There are a lot of types, but only a couple are really useful in electronics. Basically 60/40 or 63/37 rosin core is the stuff you want. There is also that communist lead free stuff, but it doesn't flow worth a damn unless you put lots of heat to it. Most of the other solders are either intended for plumbing or steel work. never use acid core solder on anything but steel or it will rot out, and even on steel you have to neutralize it properly. Solid solder will work if you've got the proper flux to go with it. Thats usually fat stuff tho, not real useful for electronic work. I actually got my solder at Radio Shack for years. They had the most reasonable prices on the stuff. I think the last pounder I bought there was like 16 bucks when a roll of Kester 44 from any of the electronics suppliers was around $42. Solder also goes a long way. It took me years to burn through that last Radio Shack roll, and I probably use more of the stuff than most people.

[ootdega]

There are a lot of types, but only a couple are really useful in electronics. Basically 60/40 or 63/37 rosin core is the stuff you want. There is also that communist lead free stuff, but it doesn't flow worth a damn unless you put lots of heat to it. Most of the other solders are either intended for plumbing or steel work. never use acid core solder on anything but steel or it will rot out, and even on steel you have to neutralize it properly. Solid solder will work if you've got the proper flux to go with it. Thats usually fat stuff tho, not real useful for electronic work. I actually got my solder at Radio Shack for years. They had the most reasonable prices on the stuff. I think the last pounder I bought there was like 16 bucks when a roll of Kester 44 from any of the electronics suppliers was around $42. Solder also goes a long way. It took me years to burn through that last Radio Shack roll, and I probably use more of the stuff than most people.

Interesting...I'm still a beginner at this, so that was pretty helpful. The most I've learned so far is butane soldering irons are more useful than electric ones.

Though this butane torch terrifies me a bit, because if I inadvertently screw it the wrong way to turn it off it'll probably explode in my face, and if I overfill it it'll turn into a flamethrower.

[sly]

Butane irons are more useful for sure, but I still just use my POS 35W electric on extension cords for most of my outdoor electrical work. The next time I need to put some ends on some fat wire (6 AWG or fatter) I'll probably get the butane one just because it gets hotter, faster. As for solder, 63/37 is definitely the easiest to work with as there's no gel state, but when using 60/40, if you have moving air to help cool the joint, the gel state is minimal anyhow, so meh. Practice does make a world of difference as I'm definitely a LOT better now than I was in high school when I started. But then that's been 20 years... so I would hope I would be a pro by now considering I use the skill at work on rather small parts (soldering thin wire to .02 or so pitch packages). Though we have nicer irons at work and sharper tips. Makes the automotive wiring a cake walk when I need to do stuff like that.

[gadget73]

I use my Hakko temperature controlled 65 watt iron for everything. Its actually the only soldering iron I even own. My ancient Weller gun died on me. Basically if I can't do it with the Hakko or a propane torch, it just isn't getting done.