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HELP! Installing new window lift motor, lost power to a ton of stuff! long...

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    HELP! Installing new window lift motor, lost power to a ton of stuff! long...

    Up till now, I had full function of everything on my 1989 Grand Marquis GS. The only electrical issue I’ve had was the headlight delay which stopped working. Had it “repaired” at the garage, but the repair was a bypass of the delay since they said they couldn't get the connector. I let it go. I never really used it, and have since never touch the delay dial.

    The interior lights all functioned. Map lights, dome lights, visor light, and the illuminated entry system. All worked. All dash lights, dimmers, radio (factory original), heat and a/c and rear defroster. Remote trunk release, cruise control, all electronic window and door lock switches on all doors. Cigarette lighters and electronic mirrors, power seat controls, worked. Every chime, buzzer light…. everything I had, worked.

    My car did not come equipped with Tripminder, ACC or a power antenna as options. Other than that which I didn’t have, EVERYTHING functioned perfectly.

    Till a week or so ago.

    The passenger front window stopped working, stuck in the down position. No sound from the motor at all. All others working, except the rear drivers side which has trouble going up, but the motor and switch operates otherwise. No other issues at the time, so assumed it was a bad window lift motor in the front passenger door .

    My father and I first tried replacing it with an easily available Dorman window lift motor. Self tapping screws. Didn’t like that.

    Dismantled the door panel, disconnected the old motor and mounted the Dorman. What a pain in the *#*! The Dorman, (once mounted, which took forever to get in position) would never have worked. The gear did not reach the window regulator gears. Just shy of engaging no matter what we did. It looked like it was a hair narrower when we picked it up, but went with it. We were right though, it didn't fit.

    Returned part and ordered a reconditioned original window lift motor, correct for my year, build, etc..

    In the meantime, all electrical items still worked. Left the panel off the door, but the passenger door lock switch, still connected, worked. The drivers side door lock switch worked that door lock, too. We had removed the bulb that illuminates the light in the door panel when we disassembled the door, but I assume that was working still also, had I popped it back in. The only thing not connected was the window switch.

    Got the new part, and we were able to get the recon in way more easily, fit right into place. The wiring on the recon needed to be lengthened to reach my original connector. We did a quick test to see if the motor functioned by connecting some test wires with wire nuts to the window motor, touched the metal in the connectors, and the window switch in the passenger door activated the motor. It’s been stinking hot here and we had had enough, so decided to continue in a day or so. But, so far so good.


    Two or three days passed, still hadn’t reconnected the window motor.

    I got in the car, went to unlock the passenger door and the drivers side master switch no longer worked at all. I though maybe a fuse, but realized quickly I had lots of other issues, all on different fuses.

    I lost map lights, dome and visor light. Illuminated entry system no longer works. My radio works, my dash lights up, but my power mirrors no longer function.

    Power seats work. Clock? Nope. Haven’t tried the cruise control, and only switched on the air for a moment, but it seems to function. The windows still go up with the power switches, other than the passenger door, (which is still disconnected), though yesterday my passenger rear window was not going up and had to be guided by hand as I operated the drivers door switch by a friend.) That doors’ window switch does still work, and I can hear the motor but only moved it a hair to see what would happen.

    Got my horn and all driving lights (brake, turn signals, headlights and high beams, and reverse lights). The auto trunk release works.

    From the reading I’ve done here i think it may be a disconnected ground wire. That is what I hope. I had vacuumed the leaves from the hood/windshield area at some point during the week, maybe I crimped one?

    Would a ground wire do this? If not, what could have I done?

    #2
    ground wire... there's a ground BANK under the dash to the right of the steering shaft that lots of grounds are plugged into. If that's come loose or not grounded itself, that might cause this. You may also have blown a fuse link coming off the starter solenoid where the battery connects to everything.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

    Originally posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

    Originally posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

    Comment


      #3
      All the stuff mentioned should be constant hot supply. Without an EVTM or an owners manual to tell me what those run on, I can't say if its all on a common fuse or not. I'd start looking there though. The dome light grounds by its mounting screws, so even if you had a ground problem under the dash that would still work.

      I'll go with fuse or possibly a fuse link.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks guys.
        My owners manual tells me that i have things working and not working on common fuses.
        I know at one point that water did get down the far side of the window against the door skin. The whisker seems like it is shoved about a 1/4" or less away from the side of the door lock and actuator. There was one connector that got damp, so, so briefly, but it is possible that I shorted out a fuse link, or worse. Hopefully not worse.

        I'm so pissed at myself, was so careful to keep it covered through this whole ordeal but that one instance may have really screwed me up.

        It's pouring right now of course... but I taped my plastic I had had on it (and should have never taken off... ) on the outside of the window and car cover is on.

        I'll check these suggestions as soon as it isn't pouring... tomorrow??

        Thanks, guys!

        Comment

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