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Re-pinning EEC connector for MSPNP2 for Foxbody? Also, wideband O2 wiring...

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    Re-pinning EEC connector for MSPNP2 for Foxbody? Also, wideband O2 wiring...

    So guys, I decided I would run the Megasquirt PNP 2 for a Foxbody Mustang to control my HO build when it goes together.

    Since this plugs in to the factory connector, do I need to re-pin the connector. I've read a lot of conflicting information on this.
    I will be running an HO firing order cam. will get it running with a base map for my specs, but then will be getting the car dyno tuned after startup.

    I know I'll need a wideband O2 sensor, I don't know what to go with or how you all typically wire them in to the car, I understand the input on my ECU for it,. but beyond that I need a little guidance.

    I feel very lost at the moment.

    #2
    got the destructions handy?

    There are some small differences between the Fox pinout and the Panther.

    function color panther fox
    thermactor air bypass W/R 51 38
    thermactor air diverter LG/BK 11 32
    fuel pump monitor PK/BK N/A 19
    MAF SIGRTN N/A 9
    MAF N/A 19

    I think you may have to move those two thermactor wires but that should be it. The FPM wire is not important. On a MAF ECM it gives some code about fuel pump secondary voltage but thats it. I doubt the MS does anything different, and you can probably turn that off if you want. If the fuel pump doesn't run you'll know it pretty quick. The FPM wire ties into the fuel pump side of the pump relay, so the only thing it can potentially tell you is if the fuel pump relay is bad.

    You don't have the MAF, so nothing to move there. I think MS doesn't use it, but if it does you can connect it up. Also needs power and ground in addition to the two signal wires.

    Do not shuffle the injector wires around. Thats handled by the ECM.

    The other possible pin differences are related to cruise control. Forget what year you have, but 88+ has that integrated in the ECM. 86-87 do not and these pins are empty. Fox ECM also have them empty. No idea if it will cause a problem or not

    BOO LG 2
    SC vent w/pk 35
    SC vac GY/BK 38
    SC sw- LB/Y 39
    SC sol+ O/Y 41
    SC sw+ LB/BK 50


    might want to pull all of those just to make sure nothing stupid happens. Can convert it to stand-alone cruise without much BS if you want but one thing at a time.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

    Comment


      #3
      I've got an 87, so standalone cruise control, as you (Gadget) had confirmed in another one of my rapid fire threads.

      The thermactor is the smog pump stuff, right? I took mine off, and my new heads don't have the ports for it at the back, so would I need to move them?

      And yeah, I'd definitely know if the fuel pump stopped working, pretty easy to know that your engine isn't running.

      I was totally concerned with the firing order, I didn't know if that had to change with the ECM or if it was the ECM that fully changed it.

      Comment


        #4
        No need to connect the thermactor stuff if you don't have provisions for it.

        Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
        rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

        Originally posted by gadget73
        ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

        Originally posted by dmccaig
        Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

        Comment


          #5
          So the consensus here is that I can plug in and go? Since my new ECM is pinned for a Foxbody and I don't need any of the things I'd be needing to re-pin, since I have standalone cruise control and no smog stuff?

          Am I wrong, you know, considering my base map isn't way off I should be able to start up and hear the car run?

          EDIT: I also will be remaining speed density, so I don't have to do MAF conversion stuff. As that's one reason I wanted this ECM, good speed density.

          Comment


            #6
            Other than maybe depinning the unneded stuff to just remove possible shorts, it should work.

            Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
            rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

            Originally posted by gadget73
            ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

            Originally posted by dmccaig
            Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

            Comment


              #7
              I'd move the thermactor wires or pull the solenoids out. Not sure if it will do anything funny if it sees voltage back on a pin that it isn't expecting. With no solenoid or with no wires in those holes there the ECM won't know or care
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by sly View Post
                Other than maybe depinning the unneded stuff to just remove possible shorts, it should work.
                Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                I'd move the thermactor wires or pull the solenoids out. Not sure if it will do anything funny if it sees voltage back on a pin that it isn't expecting. With no solenoid or with no wires in those holes there the ECM won't know or care
                I may do that. Or see if it cares first. May be able to just be turned off, I haven't explored that aspect of tunerstudio yet. Thank you all for the info though for sure.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Okay, I recognize it's been a couple years. But life is back to where I can work on this project.

                  I have the ECU installed in the car. I simply removed all the SMOG equipment and related electronics. Cranks and fires without issue, but I'm currently waiting on a new TPS and IAC as I lost the originals over the past two or three years.

                  If anyone is tuning Megasquirt in this chassis/5.0 SBF and sees this. I need some better ideas for timing and fuel for startup with AFR 165cc CNC/polished heads and Trickflow "Stage 1" cam for the top end.

                  For the box body guys, this is still the 90k mile lopo bottom end.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    only real differene in the bottom end are the pistons themselves. So long as you don't boost or spray it, or go nuts with duration (no valve reliefs), no worries.

                    assuming the bearings and all that are in reasonable shape at least
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                      only real differene in the bottom end are the pistons themselves. So long as you don't boost or spray it, or go nuts with duration (no valve reliefs), no worries.

                      assuming the bearings and all that are in reasonable shape at least
                      Bottom end has 90k original on it. Car was 100% stock when I picked it up, seemed to have been well maintained and everything in the old top end looked about brand new when I took it apart.

                      Clayed the pistons and there was enough clearance, I forget how much as I didn't write it down, and it was about a year ago.

                      Maybe if I get it to start this week I should start a tuning thread.

                      Comment

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