Time to trash the battery??

[Toploader]

Ok boys update time!
Pulled out my Fluke DMM and here are some numbers:
Car before being started:......11.91 Volts. Car started up immediately upon turning the key....no crank crank crank needed!
Upon starting DC Volts running was between 14.6 and 14.73 Volts. No load.
Car running with headlights on 14.49.
Car running with lights on and heater blower motor on high: 13.60 -13.80 Volts
Car running with just heater motor on high: 14.3 Volts
After shut down battery tests at 12.55 Volts.
All tests effectuated with car at curb idle, I understand if someone was feeding some gas the numbers would have been slightly higher.
Bottom line:
Alternator is good, but as the battery is 2.5 years old, I guess I will have to get a new battery and not have to dick around with this shit when the temps really go down into the single digits.

[Toploader]

Car is 1986 5.0 EFI. Alternator was replaced about 25 years ago with a FoMoCo reman, no Cardone shit for me I learned.
Disconnected the rear defog switch,, as this is the third one, they all suck and start to drain even when off.

[Toploader]

Car is 1986 5.0 EFI. Alternator was replaced about 25 years ago with a FoMoCo reman, no Cardone shit for me I learned.
Disconnected the rear defog switch,, as this is the third one, they all suck and start to drain even when off.

[sly]

normal should be 12.4-12.6 with vehicle off.
11.9 is showing a single weak cell or low charge. I know I've driven my vehicles and had no issues with one weak cell. When the second cell gets weak, then you'll have even more issues.

Driving around for 10-20 minutes once every other week will keep a battery charged typically if there's no electrical parasites in the system. With the switch issues and parasitic losses, if a good drive doesn't get it charged back up, then weak cell it is.

[sly]

normal should be 12.4-12.6 with vehicle off.
11.9 is showing a single weak cell or low charge. I know I've driven my vehicles and had no issues with one weak cell. When the second cell gets weak, then you'll have even more issues.

Driving around for 10-20 minutes once every other week will keep a battery charged typically if there's no electrical parasites in the system. With the switch issues and parasitic losses, if a good drive doesn't get it charged back up, then weak cell it is.

[Toploader]

Thain the car came with a 64 battery.

[friskyfrankie]

From the factory or when you bought the car?

[GM_Guy]

I'm happy with your voltage readings. Your low battery voltage has already been covered.
While you where out there did you do any quick voltage drop tests on the wires? (batt + to alt output, bat - to alt case)

[Toploader]

From the factory when new.

[Toploader]

No additional tests, some A-hole in an SUV attempted to do a U turn on the street and his bumper pushed in a portion of the drivers side Q-panel.
Living in NYC is a giant Gulog:-(

[Toploader]

45 degrees this morning, turned key, car started immediately????