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    #31
    Originally posted by LTDMan83 View Post
    If you take the cheap and easy route, and just try and fill the holes with body filler or epoxy, it WILL come back to "bite you in the ass" a few years after the car has been painted, and of course ruining the good paint around that area.
    What's your experience with filling holes with solder? I've been soldering up quite a few things lately since it doesn't require expensive welding equipment. Supposedly it works quite well as long as it's adhered properly .......
    2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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      #32
      Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
      What's your experience with filling holes with solder? I've been soldering up quite a few things lately since it doesn't require expensive welding equipment. Supposedly it works quite well as long as it's adhered properly .......
      seems to me they used to do that a lot in the old days...should work fine. hell a friend of mine soldered a good number of small holes in a beater truck(funny, they looked similar to .38 cal lol) for shits and giggles once, just torched the area bit, hit it with the solder sanded the area and painted. unfortunately i cant testify as to the longevity of solder as the truck got involved with some trees and lets just say there wasnt many straight body panels left

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        #33
        Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
        What's your experience with filling holes with solder? I've been soldering up quite a few things lately since it doesn't require expensive welding equipment. Supposedly it works quite well as long as it's adhered properly .......

        Only experience with solder I have is when I repaired my computers motherboard .

        Lead and Solder is the way they did it in the old days though.

        I would trust the Solder over Filler when it comes to filling holes, if done right it should last for at least the life of the paintjob.

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          #34
          believe me mang, its a pain to do a full vinyl top, mines originaly fulltop and i'm in the process of doing a full top restoration again!!, and i'm really thinking of going slick even tough i am a purist but seeing that the roof might be a bit rusty i'm really thinking about it. Don't mean to disilussion you but there is a downside to vinyl's you should consider before doing them.
          sigpic 1981 LTD one owner
          1992 Thunderbird SC, 1986 Mustang GT, 2003 Focus
          Originally posted by Piece-it pete
          All I know about Mexicans is, they don't need no steekin' badges lol.
          Pete

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            #35
            Finding someone that can properly lead a body panel will probably be tough. It works well, but if you don't do it right and use the proper tools. it won't bond properly to the steel and it will just chunk out. It also requires that you heat the area with a torch. If you're not careful, you can warp the sheet metal or catch the car on fire doing this.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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              #36
              Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
              Finding someone that can properly lead a body panel will probably be tough. It works well, but if you don't do it right and use the proper tools. it won't bond properly to the steel and it will just chunk out. It also requires that you heat the area with a torch. If you're not careful, you can warp the sheet metal or catch the car on fire doing this.
              Wouldn't it be easier to just put the trim back on after you remove the top?

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                #37
                Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post
                Wouldn't it be easier to just put the trim back on after you remove the top?

                Easier, Yes.

                Looks alot more Clean & Smooth without it though.

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                  #38
                  yeah it would be easy but it would probably look a bit wierd having a band across the middle of the roof for no reason. I also wouldn't be surprised if it has a gap underneath where the vinyl would have gone.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                    #39
                    For welding the holes, what kind of welder and wire would you need?
                    1986 Ford Crown Victoria Ltd

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                      #40
                      Also, can i just pry the band across the middle of the top of the car off? Since I don't want to put it back, there would be no point in preserving it, plus I can't really see how to take the interior roof off (I guess its called the headliner?) so prying it off would be my other option I think.
                      1986 Ford Crown Victoria Ltd

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                        #41
                        it's bolted down to the roof, go ahead and try to pry it off if you want to wreck the roof

                        1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                        2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                        1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                        1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                        2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                        1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                        please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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                          #42
                          What he said. The headliner isn't really held in there by much of anything. Once you remove the trim that goes around the top edge of the interior and remove the dome light, the panel can be pulled down. It just sits on a couple of christmas tree clip things. The panel can come out through the front or back door, depending which you feel like doing.
                          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                          Originally posted by phayzer5
                          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                            #43
                            oh okay, and for the welding part what do I fill the holes with? I believe they were saying silver solder could work? The same stuff used in plumbing?
                            1986 Ford Crown Victoria Ltd

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                              #44
                              If you're doing lead work, you'd use body solder which is a different mix. Honestly unless you know what you're doing with solder, don't mess with it. You need to heat the panel with a torch to get the solder to flow, but overheating could warp the metal. It will also burn the paint off.
                              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                              Originally posted by phayzer5
                              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                              Comment


                                #45
                                okay, but for the rear window trim, can I take that off?
                                1986 Ford Crown Victoria Ltd

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