My Ma's 1986 Crown Victoria LX

[packman]

I put the test light on the fuel pump relay and had power at the tan wire with black stripe. I went back to the fuel pump and tested what I think is the same wire and had no power. Since I am not an electrician, I don't know if I have a bad relay or if no power at the fuel pump is indicative of some other problem. I unplugged the relay and saw that the connector terminals are very cruddy; so I cleaned them with contact cleaner. I also have a spare RY46 relay that I might replace that relay with. If the fuel pump relay is the green one; then that is the one that had power. I will give the contact cleaner a little more time, then I will plug the connector into the replacement relay and see if it works.

[86VickyLX]

If your relays aren't getting power, the inertia switch has nothing to do with it.

[packman]

^^^^^^^^^^THank you. I might take you up on that. ^^^^^^^^^^

I have one more thing to check out next weekend. I never looked at the inertia switch; as the car was hit by the tree last year. And I tapped out the dent in the trunk lid; which wasn't bad; but may have triggered the inertia switch. I'll find out.

[86VickyLX]

Not the problem. Made the changes, still no power to the relays. I am assuming that the Holley pump will make as much if not more noise than the stock pump. I definitely don't see fuel pressure at the gauge. I'm also assuming that I should be hearing a click or two from the relays. Next weekend I will prime the engine and try bumping it over to see if at least the starter can be engaged at the key. Giving some thought to crawling under the CV, putting it in neutral, and having it towed somewhere so I can start working on the garage. Maybe see if I can find somebody willing to solve an electrical problem. I probably should pull the engine at this point and do a thorough investigation; but I am simply running out of time and patience with this car.

Depending on your schedule, I could probably help you out with that.

[packman]

Not the problem. Made the changes, still no power to the relays. I am assuming that the Holley pump will make as much if not more noise than the stock pump. I definitely don't see fuel pressure at the gauge. I'm also assuming that I should be hearing a click or two from the relays. Next weekend I will prime the engine and try bumping it over to see if at least the starter can be engaged at the key. Giving some thought to crawling under the CV, putting it in neutral, and having it towed somewhere so I can start working on the garage. Maybe see if I can find somebody willing to solve an electrical problem. I probably should pull the engine at this point and do a thorough investigation; but I am simply running out of time and patience with this car.

[packman]

I think my problem was that the instructions for the 6AL didn't include a diagram for hooking up to the factory wiring; only instructions for using the MSD wiring harness. I have the coil figured out; but I don't know about the dizzy. I have the red wire coming from the 6AL spliced into the red wire for the tfi module. But there is also a red wire with a green stripe; was I supposed to splice the red wire from the 6AL to red/green wire? Other than that, I think I have it figured out.

[packman]

I replaced the lock cylinder with no change in the problem at hand. However, the door chime is annoyingly loud. Makes me think when it stopped working; as it was working when some members of crownvic.net and panterra77 had a small meet at E-Town some years ago.

As such, I went back through the wiring harness for the starter solenoid and traced out the wires going to the coil and dizzy. I double checked the wiring against a couple YouTube vids and it appears that I incorrectly wired the dizzy and coil. I mixed 2 of those wires. I corrected the dizzy wires, but when I pulled the coil connector out; it crumbled internally; and the terminals were stuck on the coil pins. Went to pull out the terminals and one snapped. It was getting dark, so I called it quits and will deal with that tomorrow if the weather holds. I don't know what effect an incorrectly wired dizzy and coil would have on the ecm and the rest of the system; could this have been the problem? I guess I will find out tomorrow or Monday.

[87gtVIC]

That actuator broke on my 82 and locked up the steering column. The switch is how I moved around in my 87 with no keys.

Same here in my 87...broke all apart and jammed up the works.Was a chore sourcing a new actuator from ford. Its not just a simple rod. Looks like this....

https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/DC/5473-07017197.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_content=DN&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&utm_term=1986-1993+Ford+Mustang+Steering+Column+Lock+Actuator+Dorman+86-93+Ford+Steering+Column+Lock+Actuator+1987+1991&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Basecid=6774379819&aid=79287199093&keyword=334610802439%3A%3Apla-334610802439&kid=334610802439&gclid=CjwKCAjwj8eJBhA5EiwAg3z0m5aXtJsPTNt9JEMHVT3vKh9-AUmRIz3oCaGROX9CxCvB0CZvsXyJTxoCXooQAvD_BwE

[Tiggie]

That actuator broke on my 82 and locked up the steering column. The switch is how I moved around in my 87 with no keys.

[sly]

There's a sliding rod that goes from the lock cylinder to the switch that moves it back and forth. The spring in the switch is what kicks the key back when you start the car.

[packman]

Okay; I got the terminology wrong. That is the ignition switch that I replaced; not the ignition module, which is on the distributor. So I was playing with the switch last night and realized that on the back of it, there is a sliding terminal. It is fairly stiff, but it moves back and forth. I failed to take notice when I installed the replacement switch; but what moves that sliding terminal? Is there some sort of actuator that does it when the key is turned? I don't think that is the problem, but I am now curious about how it operates.

[VicCrownVic]

Oh, that would explain why in the JY when I test fit a dizzy from one into the other it wouldn't go all the way in. Although the next time I tried it it worked, but perhaps I grabbed a small shaft dizzy and jabbed it into an engine that uses a large shaft. I simply concluded that I was an idiot the first time and it should have fit. Now, if I ever make it back out to the JYs this year, I'll have to pull one of each to compare.

[86VickyLX]

Will a 5.0 distributor fit in a 351W? I still have the lopo dizzy.

No, shaft is different size for oil pump driveshaft. You must use a 351w distributor shaft. Keep in mind which cam gear you need, depending on the type of cam you're running. If it's roller cam you will need the steel gear. The flat tappet cam will require the cast gear. The gears are the same between the 2 distributors. And honestly, the main body is the same. Only difference is the actual shaft of the distributor.

[packman]

I replaced the ignition control module and inspected the connector harness; at least as far as I could until it went into the firewall. I didn't see anything obvious like severed or chewed wires. The ignition module is a replacement as its spade terminals look new; and the 2 bolts that fasten it to the steering column are Home Depot bolts.

I also looked at all of the wiring in the steering column and although kinda dirty; nothing is severed. I will wait until my replacement ignition cylinder comes in and install it. Then see if anything changed. Other than that, I have no clue what to do other than pulling the engine and checking the wiring coming out of the firewall.

[packman]

I got a new ignition module with the ignition lock cylinder. I have terminals and wire to fix the connector if the issue lies there. I noticed when I was packing up that the ignition module that is in there has 2 new-looking bolts fastening it in there. I wonder if it was replaced before we got the car. I know I didn't do that.