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85 351 4door Vic **DUW**
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Are you going to apply some rust treatment products on the frame after the repairs are complete?
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My co-worker has been doing some serious frame repair. It's about halfway done on the rail. I'm a bit nervous but it doesn't look like anything has sagged notably and I trust this guy.
Starting to cut the rot out with a plasma cutter
Here you can see just how much is cut out. It goes right from the bulkhead at the front to well past the trans crossmember. Essentially, I hit it really hard with a pointy hammer and if it bent it was getting replaced. The bottom and outer parts of that frame rail are a bit thin, but no holes.
Here is after we got the bracket/gusset the crossmember bolts to. We supported the crossmember, and then unbolted it before doing any cutting. The bracket will be cleaned up and welded to the new metal after the frame rail itself is finished. You can see the crossmember just sorta floating there. There is a tranny jack under the trans pan to support it.
Here is the plate that's going inside the frame, against the outer wall, tacked in. 1/8" plate.
We are supporting the frame just behind the rear cut line, as the frame seems to want to flex downwards in the middle.Last edited by johnunit; 05-23-2014, 11:49 PM.
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Looks great! Ditto on getting the heads and intake done at the same time.........
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Johnunit good for you, you will be happy with the Holly replacement, once it tis done the fun is getting it set up properly so that your car will run good.
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Originally posted by Rodentkiller View PostJohnunit you are dealing with a Carburator that is REALLY pickey, my Dad on his Lincolin had a VV that was non feedback and he had it rebuilt and after the rebuilt his car never ran good so he bought the Holly replacement and he never had problems with his car.
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Johnunit you are dealing with a Carburator that is REALLY pickey, my Dad on his Lincolin had a VV that was non feedback and he had it rebuilt and after the rebuilt his car never ran good so he bought the Holly replacement and he never had problems with his car.
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Originally posted by packman View PostWhat I like about the wheel tire combo is that from the side (other lane at stop light) it would look stock. It wouldn't be apparent until they're behind your car (too late, they've already lost). Hopefully the frame rot isn't too bad to fix.
Packman
The welder at work has looked at the frame and said it's very fixable.
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Originally posted by johnunit View PostThe frame rot on the rail was a shock.
I was worried the tires would look cartoonish, but really it just undid the absurd narrowness and tuck of stock. By today's standards it's pretty normal looking.
Packman
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Originally posted by Brown_Muscle View Postnice work! Much better looking with that tire sticking farther out, I always hated the dated 60's look with the tires stuck super far in in the rear. That frame rot is scary...good thing you're fixing it!
I was worried the tires would look cartoonish, but really it just undid the absurd narrowness and tuck of stock. By today's standards it's pretty normal looking.
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nice work! Much better looking with that tire sticking farther out, I always hated the dated 60's look with the tires stuck super far in in the rear. That frame rot is scary...good thing you're fixing it!
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Man, once you get that back together, that Merc is gonna be a slick sleeper.
Packman
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Slick work with the wheel covers over those monsters.
That is the first hose less air impact gun I have ever seen. lol
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new starter vs. old starter
old stance in the rear vs. new stance
nasty, badly routed lines being yanked
the perfectly clean master cylinder. Yuck
about 2/3 of the old lines that went into the bin
The spots to be repaired on the frame
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Haven't checked the valve springs it came with (came off a 10 second mustang) and am running out of time and money for head gaskets and all that.
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Why not do the heads and intake at the same time?
If the intake is off, all you have left is the exhaust.
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