Creamy

[MrMarquis]

I do like the way you've done the scoop. To me, that looks better than a big cowl hood that ends at the header panel. Low profile, almost looks like stock muscle car flair.

[turbo2256b]

Removing the scoop and spacer found 4 studs (actually bolts) had pulled out. 2 of them were totaly missing. A year ago a couple had pulled loose and fixed them with JB Weld. What ever the mfg used was some brown stuff. I purchased some 3M pannel adhesive and applicator gun to glue the scoop to the spacer. Used it looks like it is better stuff than the JB. Ground the pockets deeper and glueded in the 4 bolts. Then glassed in a flange to increase the sufface area to spread the glue between the scoop and spacer. Figured the 1/8 or so material thicness of the scoop between bolt bosses wouldnt be enough to hold real well. Use a 2" wide sections of some triax glass mat and glued it to only one edge to the scoop to form a angle

[zoomie]

just need to glass that scoop in and make it look like it was formed that way and youll be set.......im a smooth no lines kinda guy when it comes to scoops.

[turbo2256b]

Next move was to soak the leg going against the spacer. let it harden up about an hour still sticky and flexable.

[turbo2256b]

Wile harding up coverd the hood in wax paper. Then the scoop droped it on the spacer and bolted it to the hood. Using a 6" body putty spreader coated with mold release wax after the scoop was bolted on, pressed down on the flange to form it to the spacer to provide a good wide surface for glueing later.

[turbo2256b]

Finaly got a chance to run a 4ga ground wire from the trunk mounted batter to my neg terminal in under the hood. Seems to have made quite an improvement in the MSD ignition system as well as other electronc stuff. The battery was grounded to the frame and body in the trunk area. Had been wanting to do it for some time.

Finishing the scoop may have to wait for warmer weather as might be issues with the adheasive drying.

[turbo2256b]

Finaly got around to replacing my rear shocks with my rebuilt ones. Hast been handling too well with the leaky right rear and the leaky right front. Handling is a lot better with just the right rear replaced. Possibly do the front later when I GET AROUND TO THE BIG BRAKE SWAP. Parts for it have been in the back room for almost a year now except new brake hoses. Kinds if it aint broke dont fix it situation.

Pics of right side

[turbo2256b]

Left side and installed pics

[turbo2256b]

Finished up by installing my new tires old ones got burned up at the track. Walked out side as I finished as the rain stopped also to see this arcing around my building out back

[packman]

Mmmmmmm.......Creamy It's funny how after you do work on these cars, you discover an improvement; only after the work is done. *sigh*


Packman

[turbo2256b]

Creamys burning enough oil again its time to replace the intake gaskets. Power out put is at the point that block twist seperates the intake gasket at the bottom of the port and starts pulling oil into the intake runner. This time took a bit longer but havent wound it up tight as often or as high a rpm (KEEPING IT AROUND 6000 RPM).
Modified the carb spaces for better flow and distribution and finaly painted them. Was modifing my 3 1 bbl set up I took off my mustang cleaned it up and was painting it so doing creamys seemed like a good move.

[1987cp]

Need a sign that says "cow induction hood".

[packman]

Need a sign that says "cow induction hood".

For some of the larger cowls it should read "If you don't see me, I can't see you."


Packman

[turbo2256b]

Found 7 out of 8 were sucking some oil from the valley 2 were more than the rest and 4 were not as bad yet 1 just starting and 1 looked as if it was pulling in some water from the crossover port possibly number 5 port. Wish Victor Rientz didnt quit making intake gaskets for SBFs. Put them on my 460 and they seal great have never need retorqing.

[turbo2256b]

While at it replacing the Crane cast energizer rocker arms with billet ones called mid lift rockers. They are made by the same company that makes John Kasseys Boss 429 rockers. Seat pressure of my springs are 160 closed and 470 open so been worried about busting the Crane rockers they looked to be in good condition though. Had to trim the edges of the rear most rocker #4 cyl and front most # 5 cyl to prevent them from hitting rocker covers. You can see the bluing on # 5 cyl rocker used to check clearance.