I call it the Monolith. I have plans for it.

[ootdega]

Well, I can't edit, so double post it is I guess.

The passenger exhaust flange didn't give me a whole lot of trouble. The driver side is a different story. I was able to budge one of them a couple times, but it's pretty clear that more elbow grease is just going to break something else. The other one is rust-welded on there. The smog pipe clamps are about the same. I PB Blasted the shit out of everything. We'll see what happens tomorrow.

Also: I can't use heat. The engine has apparently had a tiny oil leak for a while. The pan, smog pipe, and bellhousing are coated in the stuff. Fire hazard.

It's dripping from the drain plug, but one of the pan bolts is missing for some reason, which at the very least isn't helping.



It's very hot outside.

[ootdega]

Good idea. I'll do that. I was considering getting the bolt welded to the plate, but first I'll have to check if it'll still fit after I do that. The insulators look fine enough to re-use, but one of them is starting to crack, so I'm exploring options to replace them in the future. Maybe with silicone.


Speaking of despising bolts: I was taking off the last of the exhaust bolts, and the 3/8 flex joint on my ratchet snapped in half. I hit myself in the face with a solid steel breaker bar, and I now have an L-shaped 1/4 inch thick lump covering about half my forehead. This might put me out of commission for a while.

At least I'll definitely be able to replace my melted toolkit on warranty now. I'm considering demanding a refund, too.

Did I mention I hate my life?

[VicCrownVic]

I very much despise those bolts. I cut the nuts off them on one occasion. Last time I removed those bolts they got anti-seize on the threads before things got put back together in case I ever needed to take them out again.

[ootdega]

I'll make sure to support it with the jack first.


Now my problem is the crossmember-to-frame bolts. I have rounded off the bolt head. Why they made that bolt out of Hecho en China steel is beyond me. There is a steel plate they cold have welded the nut to right there. It would have taken them three seconds.

My stepfather's idea (which are always bad) was to use vicegrips. I'd like to think that getting them on there tight enough to roll the teeth on them is pretty fucking tight, so this isn't going to work.

Time to look up the part number for the crossmember, I guess.

EDIT: I got it. Just wasn't swearing loud enough. I'm gonna make sure I don't have to do that ever again, though.

[sly]

Just make sure to support the tail of the trans with something so it doesn't really try to bang the firewall and you should be fine. The only real thing to worry about is a wire loom behind the engine IIRC.

[ootdega]

Well yeah, a bazillion extensions was how I got the other one out, no worries there. I bought a full set of extensions, and used all of them. Those nifty ones with the lock ring, so they didn't come apart.

I was just a bit anxious about crushing something when the engine tilts backward with the gearbox.



My toolbox melted when I left it in the car. Not sure if that's covered by the lifetime warranty. I kinda hate my life, if you couldn't tell.

[sly]

For the starter, I needed 2 swivels, and 4 extensions (all were 6 inch extensions) to get to the top bolt on my 93. Had to get forward of the crossmember with the ratchet. I've never done a trans, but seen a few do that job and yes, 3 feet worth of extensions is very helpful.

[friskyfrankie]

Removing the crossmember will definitely help, but a massive length of extensions works wonders to get to those top bolts. Impact swivel on the socket to keep from binding.

Do great minds think alike? LOL but just may work and not something we usually think to do.

[sly]

Removing the crossmember will definitely help, but a massive length of extensions works wonders to get to those top bolts. Impact swivel on the socket to keep from binding.

[friskyfrankie]

Any way to use swivels and extensions (perhaps from a good distance) to get to them?

[ootdega]

Took the cover off, and the gears look fine. The inside of the cover was clean on the ring side, but the carrier side was dirty and had stuff stuck to it. So it's clearly a seized wheel bearing, and it's probably on the right. I'm going to have to replace the axle either way, possibly both, so the rebuild will proceed. I already have all the parts for the 31-spline swap, so I might as well just do that. The axles and driveshaft are from a 2011 P71. Just need to get the axles shortened. Everything else is ready to go, and has been for like five years.


In regards to the transmission: I can't reach any of the bolts. I get the impression I need to remove the crossmember so I can tilt it downward like the one I removed. That's the only clear solution, and it's the first thing the Holy Texts say to do. My concern is whether doing so will break something. The donor vehicle had the intake manifold and most of the serpentine removed.

I'm also unclear if the pan is meant to be able to support the whole thing. I'd rather wait until I have it removed to take the valve body off.

I really need to get this right the first time, so I'm double- and triple-checking everything.

[ootdega]

You're both probably right. I hope you're right.

[P72Ford]

Pull the cover and inspect the rear before you condemn it.

If you aren't changing gears, I would almost guarantee re-using the shim configuration in there now will get you right where you need to be. Keep track of left and right carrier and pinion shims when you disassemble. I would still sanity check the pattern and verify backlash when you re-assemble. If the axles are worn, I would suggest finding (2) good ones from the JY if you can. I think aftermarket replacement parts are junk, and repair bearings are an even bigger joke.

The differential is a much simpler undertaking than the AOD!

[Brown_Muscle]

Well, if the gear are fine, and its just worn bearings, it really not too difficult. Far simpler than disassembling the AOD for sure. The two things to note that will require special tools would be pressing the old pinion bearing off and new one on (a hydraulic press), and a beam style inch pound wrench. I'd rebuild it and then use the gear paint to check the contact pattern, i bet it will be OK and you wont have to change anything with the backlash or pinion depth

[ootdega]

We found a socket. There wasn't enough space to use it. So I'm glad I didn't have to wait for delivery to learn that. I got it done, though. I was gonna try the double wrench and hammer, but after we got the car higher off the ground, I had more leverage and got it first try. Thank god I didn't have to figure out how we were gonna rotate the driveshaft on ramps.

But after I got the driveshaft out, I learned something that made my stomach sink.

The u-joints are fine. Like, gravity-drop fine.

This means the only possible cause of the wobble and cold clunk noise, as well as the burnt metal smell...is the differential. I do have everything I need to rebuild the whole damn thing, aside from getting the axles done. But I am not looking forward to adjusting backlash, and possibly pinion depth. I really don't want to do all that. Not to mention I am pretty much flat broke for another week and a half.