The Crown Shit. The never ending story.

[DerekTheGreat]

...an inch of squish...

[frankenstang]

gonna go off on a whim and assume that that's my abs module. Am I right?

Other than that, left the harness unconnected when i put the freshly bled MC on, realized it an hour later, then bled the brakes one more time. It's a lot better than it was but the pedal still doesn't get stiff when pumped when the car is off. Gonna pick up a brand new MC later next week when i return the junkyard part. at least i get a break from it next week, but in turn i've gotta get my Mustang dialed in.

[DerekTheGreat]

Whoa.. those are some crusty brake lines.

[frankenstang]

Whoa.. those are some crusty brake lines.

i've replaced all of the rear line. hence the fresh line going right past that module, i have no leaks as of right now so i'm not bothering replacing them


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[DerekTheGreat]

The first time you stab that pedal real hard, one of those will pop, right where that dark red rust is. Spray them with oil or something at least. I'm in metro Detroit and drive rust bombs myself, I've never lost a line after doing that habitually every year.

[gadget73]

If you had ABS, it would be a large box with a bunch of lines running in and out of it, located on the frame rail, forward of the upper control arm, basically under the air filter box. That looks like the simple splitter block used on non-ABS cars. If its got one line in and 2 out without a big-ass wire harness, its just a splitter.

the brake lines are scary, and something is wet on the back side of that block. The brakes should not be mushy. Either there is air, or there is a dead MC but something is wrong.

[frankenstang]

the brake lines are scary, and something is wet on the back side of that block. The brakes should not be mushy. Either there is air, or there is a dead MC but something is wrong.

it's wet from removing the MC the first two times, but i'm gonna cross my fingers and hope nothing decides to break when i go back to the shop in a week with a new Rock Auto MC (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...1108370&jsn=23)


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[BigMerc96]

If you have that splitter block, then you do not have ABS. On an ABS car the 2 lines from the master run straight into the ABS block, it then splits it into the 3 or 4 lines that feed the rest of the car (one rear line without traction control, 2 with it). On a non-ABS car the single rear line runs straight from the master to the LR wheel, the front line from the master runs into that block where it splits off to the 2 front wheels, also has the deactivation switch for the cruise control.

[frankenstang]

went to bleed the MC today since i'm finally back in the shop...

the screws that's block off where the lines go we're the wrong size. Ordered a set of them to get delivered to the shop, they didn't get in by the time i had to get back to school.

and I have SAT, Work Keys, and M-Step all week.

so yeah, my luck am i right?


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[frankenstang]

I am sort of ashamed to admit this but...

I've been bleeding my brakes wrong this whole time.

been cracking this open the whole damn time because i didn't know better.

But I'm a kid still, that's how you learn. despite it being relatively basic, I had never really learned how to bleed brakes on my own. Lesson learned, coulda been driving this a month ago, but that's just how it goes. Doesn't stop me from feeling like a fool.

Now I know what I'm doing, I sound like a broken record but I am 90% positive it'll be ready to drive back to my primary school Monday morning. fingers crossed that nothing goes to shit or a lug nut got misplaced.

[87gtVIC]

No worries. We all start somewhere. I have to say if I dont know how to do something youtube is an excellent resource for gaining that knowledge. I have learn TONS through youtube videos. Of course you have to use some common sense and weed out the bad but overall it is a good tool.


I hope the bleeders on the caliper open up okay for you. They can be stubborn at times. I have used vice grips before because things got so bad.

[jaywish]

Don't feel too bad as you didn't know to look on u-tube as you thought you were doing it right to start with. A place we all have been.

Also plenty of free-All and take your time on the bleeders. using a 6-point socket and tapping the heck out of it by hitting the back of the socket (where the square hole is) to set vibrations to break the threads free. If you don't use 6-pt tools on it you will often strip them and certainly need the vise grips.

[sly]

You're not the first... and definitely won't be the last to bleed brakes wrong. I've even done it wrong after having learned the proper way. Brain farts at times.

[DerekTheGreat]

LoL that reminds me of the time my buddy and I were working on my brother's '97 Ranger. I was doing the plugs & wires, he was doing the brakes. He was having a hell of time trying to bleed the brakes. I go take a look and after a few cycles of the ole "Pump 'em up & hold" I notice he had the calipers on the wrong side, so the bleeders were faced down instead of up. Whoops.

[frankenstang]

Good news! I take it home later tonight. There's about an inch of squish because i couldn't get the RR valve to open, it's rounded to hell now.

Passenger side O2 sensors have been unplugged due to that side being open header still, note to self: let warm up for a few minutes before driving. Ran on like 2 cylinders it seemed like after taking a lap around the parking lot, cleared up after a minute or so of idling.

And the speedo still doesn't work

And I still don't have a front sway bar.

It MOVES and STOPS now and that's all i'm concerned about, i'll find out if i can get it over 20mph later tonight.