My 1983 Continental Mark VI!

[mercurygm88]

If I recall right, there aren't any teeth on the hockey puck thing. You loosen the screws, turn clockwise or counter clockwise and then retighten. I think counter clockwise will get it to pull off sooner. Then you can play with the various screws on the linkage to adjust just how high cold idle is and all that. Been about seven years since I played with CFI. ONe of the things I never cared for was yeah, you have to practically stand on the brake pedal until that nonsense kicks off. Trimming down high idle will help a bit. I think I was able to go to ~1,900 RPM before it started surging. These do not enrichen the fuel mixture when cold, that's why the high idle setting is so damn high.

The hockey puck arm does have teeth on it, and the piece on the throttle shaft snags onto one when the puck spring is cold enough.
Quite easy to adjust, just have a cold engine (and off) and loosen the 3 screws holding the puck so you can just turn it by hand.
You can easily figure out if the high idle is engaged, you can drop it off the high idle cam pretty much how one would do it on an electric choke carb.

Clockwise to enable it higher and for longer, counterclockwise for less effect (and at some point it no longer does anything at all.)

Seems easy enough, I'll have to mess with it later today.

[Arquemann]

The hockey puck arm does have teeth on it, and the piece on the throttle shaft snags onto one when the puck spring is cold enough.
Quite easy to adjust, just have a cold engine (and off) and loosen the 3 screws holding the puck so you can just turn it by hand.
You can easily figure out if the high idle is engaged, you can drop it off the high idle cam pretty much how one would do it on an electric choke carb.

Clockwise to enable it higher and for longer, counterclockwise for less effect (and at some point it no longer does anything at all.)

[DerekTheGreat]

If I recall right, there aren't any teeth on the hockey puck thing. You loosen the screws, turn clockwise or counter clockwise and then retighten. I think counter clockwise will get it to pull off sooner. Then you can play with the various screws on the linkage to adjust just how high cold idle is and all that. Been about seven years since I played with CFI. ONe of the things I never cared for was yeah, you have to practically stand on the brake pedal until that nonsense kicks off. Trimming down high idle will help a bit. I think I was able to go to ~1,900 RPM before it started surging. These do not enrichen the fuel mixture when cold, that's why the high idle setting is so damn high.

[mercurygm88]

I have a question about the CFI choke/choke thermostat. It kind of works but I don't think it's working properly. If I follow the starting procedure in the manual and pump the pedal once before starting the car with the engine cold it will engage high idle. If I don't pump the pedal once high idle will still engage once I give it any amount of throttle, such as pulling out of the driveway. Sometimes said high idle will drop to normal after 5 minutes of driving, sometimes it takes up to 15 minutes of driving. It's really annoying sitting at a stop sign or red light and having to practically stand on the brake to keep from moving. So what I'm wondering is should I go about fixing this thing or can I just unhook it and plug the vacuum line? As I understand it there's a temp sensitive spring in there and when it heats up vacuum pulls it off of high idle, where exactly is this thing located on the throttle body and how hard is it to remove/bypass?

Update: I found the choke on the passenger side of the throttle body, the power wire it hooked to it and so is the vacuum line. I don't know if it was because the engine was still somewhat warm but I couldn't seem to get any of the teeth on the mechanism to engage, it almost seems like somebody has tinkered with it before. But if they have what is causing the high idle on a cold start? I'm definitely getting vacuum at the choke diaphragm so I'm guessing the diaphragm itself is likely shot. I'm also getting vacuum at the throttle kicker solenoid on the other side of the throttle body but it doesn't seem to be doing anything. I guess that's not a big deal because the car runs and idles fine.

I'm not trying to get this thing back to factory specs or anything it runs and drives fine, I just want to solve the high idle on a cold start issue.

[mercurygm88]

I have a question about the CFI choke/choke thermostat. It kind of works but I don't think it's working properly. If I follow the starting procedure in the manual and pump the pedal once before starting the car with the engine cold it will engage high idle. If I don't pump the pedal once high idle will still engage once I give it any amount of throttle, such as pulling out of the driveway. Sometimes said high idle will drop to normal after 5 minutes of driving, sometimes it takes up to 15 minutes of driving. It's really annoying sitting at a stop sign or red light and having to practically stand on the brake to keep from moving. So what I'm wondering is should I go about fixing this thing or can I just unhook it and plug the vacuum line? As I understand it there's a temp sensitive spring in there and when it heats up vacuum pulls it off of high idle, where exactly is this thing located on the throttle body and how hard is it to remove/bypass?

[DerekTheGreat]

"Tiny" money. LoL. Yeah, sounds about right. These people expect you to give your stuff away to them. I wouldn't sell my Lincoln for less than $7,000. Try and find another one like it..

[gadget73]

I've been offered tiny money for my Mark VII a couple times, usually right after "hey, nice car".

Curiously only one person has ever wanted the Continental, and purely because it was a diesel. I got the more polite "let me know if you ever want to sell it".

[Tiggie]

It's awesome when a stranger comes up to say "nice car". It's also perfectly fine IMO to say "I like your car, Call me if you decide to sell". It's another to ask someone a price point on the spot, or how much it's worth. Good job with response.

[mercurygm88]

What an assclown.
Price of used cars right now is off the charts. Even for older vehicles.
Whenever someone asks me a price on something that i don't want to sell, i just give them some crazy price that i know they would never pay.
That guy is a disrespectful douche IMHO

I usually reply with "It's not for sale." If they keep pushing me for a price I give them something ridiculous.

[massacre]

Some dumb jackass came into the store wanting to buy the Mark VI today. I have no interest in selling it so I told him I'd sell it for what it's insured for, $7500. He laughed and told me a derby car was only worth $500. Those type of people really piss me off.

What an assclown.
Price of used cars right now is off the charts. Even for older vehicles.
Whenever someone asks me a price on something that i don't want to sell, i just give them some crazy price that i know they would never pay.
That guy is a disrespectful douche IMHO

[mercurygm88]

Some dumb jackass came into the store wanting to buy the Mark VI today. I have no interest in selling it so I told him I'd sell it for what it's insured for, $7500. He laughed and told me a derby car was only worth $500. Those type of people really piss me off.

[mercurygm88]

not on the early ones. Not sure when it became an option but my 84 doesn't have that ability. The 91 does. Pretty sure the modules are a direct swap though, and its possible to re-code them as needed if you want to swap to a later one and have it match the original key code. Somewhere I have notes on it but you move diodes around on the board to set the code.

It's not that big of a deal I just thought it would be nice to have the same code for both cars.

[gadget73]

not on the early ones. Not sure when it became an option but my 84 doesn't have that ability. The 91 does. Pretty sure the modules are a direct swap though, and its possible to re-code them as needed if you want to swap to a later one and have it match the original key code. Somewhere I have notes on it but you move diodes around on the board to set the code.

[mercurygm88]

Does anyone know if there's a way to program your own code for these early keypads? I didn't see anything in the manual but then I didn't look for it specifically. I figure there's a good possibility that they aren't as advanced as the later versions.

[Mainemantom]

Yes winter is only 2 months away, if that. Time to plan winter projects with the cars in the garage.