My 1983 Continental Mark VI!

[sly]

Also, they're not hard to re-pin. I just swapped the pins from my old one over to the new one. Still using the original keys. The pins weren't worn much at all.

[gadget73]

only thing that contact in the cylinder does is make the door chime ring when the keys are in the ignition and the door is open. Won't bother how it starts or runs.

[Mainemantom]

Hmm...... I might be getting somewhere. Just after my last post I ran into town to grab some stuff from the gas station. The car didn't want to start, I pulled the key out of the ignition and put it back in and removed it several times, tried it again and it fired right up. Coincidence? Anything in the lock cylinder that could potentially cause this no start issue? I realize this is not a chipped key or anything, I don't even know if there are electrical contacts for the lock cylinder. I notice you have to get the key angled just right or it only goes about halfway in. Perhaps something with the ignition switch?

I took a picture of two ignition switches from my spare parts bin. They do have contacts and do go bad occasionally but not often. Not expensive or hard to replace. You have to keep in mind that you will have a new key though.

[mercurygm88]

+1 just hose it. Also, a firm toothbrush works great as a parts cleaner brush. I have some in my collection for cleaning electronics.

Thanks. I’ll do the crank position sensor plugs too now that I finally found where they’re hiding.

[sly]

+1 just hose it. Also, a firm toothbrush works great as a parts cleaner brush. I have some in my collection for cleaning electronics.

[mercurygm88]

yep. melt out the goo with contact cleaner and maybe take a small pokey tool in there and give it a slight scrape to get rid of any crust. I've had problems with ancient connector grease turning into glue before. At that point it needs to go away. Put a bit of fresh spark plug grease in there and it should be happy again.

I'll give that a try and see what happens, the old grease is pretty much glue at this point.

[gadget73]

yep. melt out the goo with contact cleaner and maybe take a small pokey tool in there and give it a slight scrape to get rid of any crust. I've had problems with ancient connector grease turning into glue before. At that point it needs to go away. Put a bit of fresh spark plug grease in there and it should be happy again.

[mercurygm88]

Might try cleaning the contacts on yours as-is. May be oxidized and just need a good clean.

Can I just shoot some contact cleaner into the plugs? They're pretty gummed up with what appears to be 20+ year old dielectric grease. The clips are also shot on the plugs of the old module.

[sly]

Might try cleaning the contacts on yours as-is. May be oxidized and just need a good clean.

[mercurygm88]

Ok so good news and bad. Pretty sure it's the ignition module, duraspark module, whatever you want to call it. Twice today I encountered the no spark issue, both times squeezing the connectors on the module got it going. So hey I work at a parts store I'll just order one, two different versions were available. One has a 2 pin and a 3 pin plug, the other is 2 and a 4, so 5 or 6 pins total. I checked mine out and it was the 5. So I ordered it, our stupid distribution center sent the 6 pin which is a totally different part number. So I had to send it back and order the 5 pin which won't be in until Monday.

I swear about half the shit I order whether for myself or for customers either doesn't come in on time or comes in wrong.

[gadget73]

well, its Duraspark so pretend the computer doesn't exist. Its basically a 1970s F100, the only real difference is the ignition pickup is down on the crankshaft instead of in the distributor. Same signals though.

Verify key-on power to the coil and cranking power to the coil. They feed from different circuits, key-on runs through the resistor wire from somewhere in the car, cranking power is usually off the I terminal of the starter solenoid and bypasses the ignition switch and resistor wire. with most Fords, the key-on power goes dead when cranking so that power feed off the starter solenoid is essential for getting them lit off. I wouldn't be half surprised if its the starter relay thats really at fault.

if its not off the I terminal, it probably has a diode and feeds off the signal going to the S terminal. I don't have an '83 EVTM to know what they did, but either way it needs power in both key positions.

[mercurygm88]

Sounds like the simular type problem I have with my 83 MGM. In addition, mine quits when driving down the road whenever it feels like.
Find a really good auto electrical mechanic.

Unfortunately every mechanic within 30 miles of me charges at least $100 an hour and is for the most part untrustworthy. Most if not all of them cannot work on anything pre OBD II. I just don't have the kind of money for that or trust them.

My guess is that it's one single component that is slowly failing, I just have to figure out what it is. I'm leaning towards the Duraspark module at this point. The one in the car is from NAPA and looks fairly old, I always re-seat the connectors on that module when it does this and it usually starts right up after that.

[mercurygm88]

Dunno if I'm a little late to the party, but the scrader valve for checking the fuel pressure is right there:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]56705[/ATTACH]

Also yes, the choke/high idle system needlessly complicated and dumb as a box of rocks. Which makes it kinda fun.

I found the schrader valve, just before I found out my issue isn't fuel related.

[Arquemann]

Dunno if I'm a little late to the party, but the scrader valve for checking the fuel pressure is right there:


Also yes, the choke/high idle system needlessly complicated and dumb as a box of rocks. Which makes it kinda fun.

[DerekTheGreat]

The high idle is way less advanced than a solenoid. Its a heat choke like carbs use. When cold, pumping the pedal lets the high idle cam drop into position. It has a heater and a vacuum pull-off to lift it back out as it warms up. I suppose if the TPS were glitchy it might be that it lands in a dead spot in the high idle position.

This.

My '85 wouldn't restart when hot if you didn't touch the skinny pedal somewhat. Found an owners manual and that is apparently normal operating procedure.