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    Red engine light

    I got a red engine light on my 85 and it's acting sluggish, what's the difference between the yellow "check engine" and red "engine" lights on these cars?

    #2
    The red "ENGINE" light comes on when oil pressure is too low (below either 6 or 10 psi, if memory serves) or coolant temperature is too high (250°F or above).
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria
    1977 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
    1996 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4, 360

    Past: 1995 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor

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      #3
      Originally posted by Stocker View Post
      The red "ENGINE" light comes on when oil pressure is too low (below either 6 or 10 psi, if memory serves) or coolant temperature is too high (250°F or above).
      Yellow "Check Engine" on '89+ is an actual check engine lamp. Like Stocker said, the red "ENGINE" light is for one of those two issues.


      My Cars:
      -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
      -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
      -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
      -1997 Grand Marquis LS (240K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

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        #4
        Well the coolant temp sensor has bare wire on the little snap plug. And I might've disturbed it when I pressure washed the engine, oil pressure wiring doesn't look the best either

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          #5
          That would be the "replace engine" light. Unless its a bad sensor, fair bet she's fucked if you've been driving with that on for any amount of time at all.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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            #6
            Originally posted by 91merc View Post
            Well the coolant temp sensor has bare wire on the little snap plug. And I might've disturbed it when I pressure washed the engine, oil pressure wiring doesn't look the best either
            With the engine cold and running, disconnect the wire from the coolant temperature switch (this is the one on the intake manifold - the one on the heater hose fitting is the temp sensor for the ECU). If the light goes out, the problem is the switch. If the light remains on, either the wiring is shorted or the problem is in the oil pressure side of things. Disconnect the wire from the oil pressure switch - if the light goes out, either the switch is bad or your oil pressure is next to nothing.
            1985 LTD Crown Victoria
            1977 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
            1996 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4, 360

            Past: 1995 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor

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              #7
              Doesn't an 85 have the "low oil" sensor in the oil pan? The sensor can be stuck or the wire going to it may be shorting out. WagonMan
              89 Colony Park
              90 Colony Park
              70 HEMI Daytona Convertible

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                #8
                Originally posted by WagonMan View Post
                Doesn't an 85 have the "low oil" sensor in the oil pan? The sensor can be stuck or the wire going to it may be shorting out. WagonMan
                That's a separate light - optional on Fords, and I think it says "Check Oil" (my '85 is a low-series car and doesn't have it).
                1985 LTD Crown Victoria
                1977 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
                1996 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4, 360

                Past: 1995 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor

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                  #9
                  does it go out when you rev it up?

                  1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                  2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                  1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                  1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                  2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                  1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                  please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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                    #10
                    The first time I drove it about 15 miles, parked it for about 10 minutes and it was on right from startup, then I went under the hood and wiggled some various wires and it stayed off for about 10 more miles, the last 5 or so miles there was no knocking or coolant smell, just a little sluggish

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                      #11
                      The light is staying off right now, but I haven't actually moved it at all yet

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                        #12
                        If the coolant temp sensor or the oil pressure sensor grounds due to faulty wiring and/or a faulty sensor, the light will turn on. By what you are describing, that sounds like your issue.

                        A steady on red engine light for actual temp or oil pressure reasons basically means turn it off ASAP or you're gonna nuke it.
                        1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
                        1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

                        GMN Box Panther History
                        Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
                        Box Panther Production Numbers

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by Tiggie View Post
                          If the coolant temp sensor or the oil pressure sensor grounds due to faulty wiring and/or a faulty sensor, the light will turn on. By what you are describing, that sounds like your issue.

                          A steady on red engine light for actual temp or oil pressure reasons basically means turn it off ASAP or you're gonna nuke it.


                          I think you're right on the ground problem cuz it stayed off on my 20 mile commute to work and ran real good. If the ground problem is the case, would that basically fool the computer into thinking the engine was about to grenade and throw the car into limp mode and thats why it was sluggish?

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                            #14
                            Do these things have a limp mode?
                            1987 Lincoln Town Car - Signature, "Prudence"

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                              #15
                              Or is it rather to do with the fact that the coolant temp is one of the variables used for the air/fuel mixture?

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