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yeah, voltage regulator.

The white rubbery crap is basically like RTV gasket maker, just a slightly different compound that doesn't have acid to rot electronics. This one looks a lot different...

My Continental is an R134a conversion. The Mark VII with the same AC parts is a propane/butane mix. The explosive gas bomb system is a hell of a lot colder. I really should flush that out and...

Have a digital dash and a message center unit from an abandoned idea. They are chunky through-hole parts, no fuss to deal with. Just clean the boards of any leakage that may have occurred.
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I'd be very unsurprised if the message center module doesn't just need an overhaul. Old electronics that live in a bad environment just don't hold together forever. I've had a lot of issues with...

No freewheel function or one-way clutch that would do that.

Check your wire routing, if 7 and 8 lay next to one another for a long stretch it can cause cross-firing and do exactly this kind of...

There are two kinds of R12 high side port, the Ford one, and the "everyone else" one. If what you have doesn't fit your car, you got the "everyone else" fitting. I want to say its 1/4 SAE flare vs...

maybe available both as a dealer up-fit and factory with the same switches? Dunno, it just looks very much like an afterthought.

i think its just a standard Ford type relay, not anything special.

The other thing that makes the idler sit funny is the missing lower support from having no smog pump. Its usually not a problem but sometimes the brackets bend. The cheater fix is to use the really...

Check at the tank, its the most likely spot to have a crappy contact since its under the car. Its on the front side of the tank, no need to drop it or anything like that.

No fuel flow signal will...

gotta love "everyone is at fault" insurance.

wait until the set screw lets go at the carb end or one of the brackets bends for no apparent reason.

do both of the horns live in the same fender on a Towncar or is it one in each side? I honestly don't remember.

not just stuffed full of petrified old grease is it? Had a lot of trouble with those sockets on my car when I replaced the bulbs. Both broke, then once I managed to get the base out the contacts...

Under all the electronics, its still an engine designed in the 1950s with the same problems they have always had. Interesting it would read lean though, I'd have expected un-burned fuel to spike it...

sounds like the same sort of bushing they use on all these things. Tapered up to a sharp corner with a groove cut in it to lock it in place.

The easiest tool to remove it is a propane torch. ...

the distance to empty stuff is based on fuel level from the tank, but I don't think it uses current or average fuel economy. At least it doesn't seems to on the Mark VII or Continental. Fill it up,...

The early power antennas had limit switches in them to turn it off once it gets to end of travel so it *shouldn't* run the batt down but no guarantees. If that switch were leaking current it might...

Its set by the injector parameters in the ECM. The real glitch is that its only accurate when the injectors match the programmed parameters, so the 19# with a Mark VII ECM is only really completely...

two and a half thou would be well within manufacturing tolerance for the bolt head and the socket so honestly you'd never notice the difference. You're talking less than the thickness of a sheet of...

if you make it full up at WOT you won't be grossly off the mark.

There is a factory thing where you use a drill bit of a size between the TV lever and the stop and set the pressure within a range...

I think the thread is M8 as well, its an odd reduced head bolt. Normally 8mm head is on an M6 bolt, and I'm pretty sure those are larger than M6. M6 basically 1/4", M8 is 5/16".

you know I could have just turned the threads off the sensor instead of having to freehand it on a grinder.

A gearless TFI distributor is what I used last time I needed to prime one of these engines. Makes the perfect primer tool, its something I didn't care about, it fit, and there was no advance...

should also be one more or less below the brake booster where the vacuum line for the parking brake release went through. Might be easier to find that one from inside the car.