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Yeah it was a struggle for sure and I didn’t want to use any tools or else I’d end up breaking something I’m sure. But then it just slid right in. I’m glad that Dorman still makes these kits for our...

Got it all back together earlier, I forgot how much of a bitch it was to put the bushings in lol. I also sprayed down the track to stop the window from skipping when going down. Wd40 seems to have...

I had the same problem with my gas gauge when I first got my 87 mgm. It did move a tiny bit when I cycled the key so I suspected the float. Pulled the sender and behold the float was cracked and full...

10 and 11 changed to P7B, not that it’s important just throwing that out there.


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You’re telling me lol. Sometimes I go in on my days off to go see coworkers, just an excuse to browse and buy tools lol.


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Thanks for the advise guys. I’m going to at least put a little paint on the edges. Yeah I noticed when I used the 1/2” bit it started grabbing the metal and making jagged edges. Anything under that...

So I stepped up and drilled the dimples. They came out clean until I stepped up to the 1/2 but then they got jagged, oh well it’s behind the door panel. I got the motor out and opened it up to find...

Oh ok I’ll look for those dimples the next time I’m out there but hopefully I can get them without drilling.


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I did some research but couldn’t find much on how to remove the window motor. I took the door card off and can see there are a few bolts but they’re not accessable. I’ve done the motor bushings on my...

Good to know, perhaps I could swap the lock rod onto an aftermarket one to get it to work like factory.


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I had an interstate in mine when I bought it and it was old and I drained it a few times yet it kept charging back up no problem. Though that was my only experience with them.

I’d only go with...

I had a 65 in my 87 Mgm when I bought it and it sat crooked since the tray is too small. I wanted to get another 65 but ended up getting a 56 since it fit and it’s been fine for almost 2 years. Even...

I’m going to look into the aero actuators for the future. I have to take off the drivers side front door card to fix the window motor anyway so I might as well mess with the actuator while I’m in...

Oh ok great, I have an old one lying around I can mess with.


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So the rod can be removed from the stock ones? I’m not having issues with them not working but I’m guessing the rod being slightly longer or shorter is screwing up the geometry causing issues.

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Damn that’s a bummer. I don’t like the idea of drilling a new hole in the door but I understand. Maybe a bracket could be make to circumvent that though. Do you have any pictures of them installed?...

I know this topic has been addressed before but I want to know if anyone has been able to rebuild the stockers. Or if anyone has come accross a set that aren’t those ones that include multiple rods....

Big shoutout to Mustang Eddie, he’s great to deal with a fair prices. This wasn’t the first time I bought parts from him and probably won’t be the last!


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They do use cam sensors but even with a messed up one the ecu runs in waste spark. I guess if the signal is erratic just enough to cause issues but not enough to throw a code it is possible that’s...

Personally, I don’t believe in coincidences. My thought is a bad maf and some bad gas. There could be water in it too. Change the fuel filter, run some sort of fuel stabilizer and run the tank down....

You can run it with that belt off and it won’t hurt anything. It won’t run rich either, the system doesn’t work like that.


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Pm’d


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Yes, the ac belt is on the rear so it’s the last one to remove the first to install.

The hole on the tensioner is on the front near the pulley itself. You might have to feel around for it.

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That’s a normal setup. You have to install the ac belt first and no you don’t have to remove the fan just go around it. It’s just like any other car really.


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Still looking for those parts and:

Heater tube/ect housing
Ho cam
Delayed lighting timer module (not sure of the exact name)


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