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yeah I'm a stock plug type of guy. Thats why I put coppers back in the Mark VII. Just past experience with the 302, they don't idle as well with fancy plugs vs boring Motorcraft coppers. The 4.6 I...

none of my cars have wanted more than 10. The Towncar and the black Mark VII both pinged with any advance. The white one very slightly pings even at 10, though that mostly went away when I swapped...

Tube caddys are cool but I think they're a bit hopeful on that price. Most of those tubes are TV types and not all that many people are fooling with tv sets. The tubes tend to be pretty available...

I've never had the line pop out, but there is an O ring down inside that seals against the steel tube. When it gets rock hard and the line moves for whatever reason they just vomit fluid. They...

I've also seen the "newspaper test" done. basically stick a magazine or equivalent into the fan and if it stops, the clutch is done. If you get confetti, its fine.

I keep several of those...

sloppy bottom ends on a non-HO is very common. Something about the firing order of the 289/302 that beats the rear main bearing up. The HO and 351 doesn't seem to do this.

So long as the oil...

none of that will cause overheating unless the radiator is half clogged. A bad fan clutch will though. So will low coolant from a leak.

probably would just push the goop out. My bigger fear would be that its going to start mixing coolant in the oil, from there its a short trip to milkshake station with a siding of no main bearings.

Ah, I was thinking the third light was up at the top near the hinge, not in the middle.

There is a seal between the pump and cover and another between the cover and block, so it could be leaking at either. The trouble with the block to cover seal, if it leaks inside the engine it dumps...

don't suppose you could eliminate the spring contact crap and just use flexible wire ?

the sensor doesn't really care about the coolant. its a sealed thing with a switch built into it. They can just go bad though.

If you're doing the pump, at least rock the crank and check for timing chain slop. 88 should be the good double roller chain that last just about forever, but may as well confirm. With the pump off...

check the oil pressure with a real gauge, check the temperature with a real gauge. Its the only way to know for sure. Fair guess if it had no oil pressure or was massively overheated you'd know...

my only real experience with them is the rear discs on a Towncar, and as a parking brake it kind of sucks. The stupid clampy cable caliper nonsense the other two have sucks in different ways, not...

only thing I own with drums anymore is my truck. They didn't work when I got it, shoes had been changed and never adjusted out enough for the self-adjust to work. Fixed that, good to go. One major...

Something that would be neat but ultimately kind of useless is to re-work one of the original style handsets to interface with a modern phone via bluetooth. Who actually makes telephone calls these...

I really don't know that they are so much undersized for the stock engine as the pressure tends to be on the low side from age, bushing failure, wear, etc. I can tell you it is possible to get a lot...

all of this is typical, especially the rotten frame rail. Have a look underneath at the frame just behind the passenger side lower control arm mount. Fair bet you'll find where the frame angles...

That would be the "replace engine" light. Unless its a bad sensor, fair bet she's fucked if you've been driving with that on for any amount of time at all.

There is some large size Seimens (I think) that are supposed to have excellent control even down to small duty cycles. 86VickyLX could tell you which specific ones he's using on his car, but they're...

Steel wheels just need something in the middle, and original dog dishes work quite nicely with the rest of the car's looks.

if you're looking for boost, 24# isn't going to be enough. Mine gets fairly close to 100% duty cycle at full throttle and thats N/A with iron heads.

I think the 460 injectors were 24# blues. Physically they fit, but unless you tune the ECM it won't work right. I don't know exactly what you're trying to do so I can't tell you if they will...

these aren't valves, its a switch. When vacuum exceeds some level it closes. Probably used as some sort of feedback to verify that some temperature switch did actually shift the vacuum as it was...