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Adjust those rear brakes!!!

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    Adjust those rear brakes!!!

    While I was on the lift checking my wheel cylinders the other day, I went ahead and adjusted the drum brakes out untill i could feel the slightest bit of drag.
    Lemme say, it made a BIG difference, even with the leaky wheel cylinders. I have hardly any pedal travel now, compared to a good 2 inches or so before.
    We always do this to customers cars (with drum brakes) with any brake job, and they always come back saying how great the brakes feel

    To adjust them - raise the rear up off the ground, and pop the rubber plugs out of the adjustent slot. You can use a screwdriver, but a brake spoon tool make it easier.
    You simply use the tool to turn the star wheel up (coming from the backing plate) while spinning the drum untill you feel the slighted bit of contact. Of course, this will usually cause you to have to back them off to remove the drum next time, and you have to fight the lever sitting on the star wheel to adjust them back in, but the security of a great feeling brake pedal is well worth it.
    Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
    'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
    sigpic
    85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

    #2
    I gotta check mine, I get plenty of brake pedal travel, and I know it ain't cause of my front brakes... weird thing is when I was pulling the drums in the winter they were dragging on the pads, or so it seemed... will check on it this weekend.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Ivan D
      I gotta check mine, I get plenty of brake pedal travel, and I know it ain't cause of my front brakes... weird thing is when I was pulling the drums in the winter they were dragging on the pads, or so it seemed... will check on it this weekend.
      Forgot to mention the other day when you were here. the rear brakes seem to back off on the GM I have had. Check them. Or they jusdt weat quick
      Scars are tatoos of the fearless

      Comment


        #4
        I did them on justins car when he had stock brakes, and bled the rears.

        What a difference!
        1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
        Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

        Comment


          #5
          yes good info on adjusting those pesky drum brakes......rear discs=teh win!

          1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
          2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
          1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
          1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
          2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
          1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

          please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by lincolnmania
            rear discs=teh win!
            You had to say that, didn't you :stfu1: I was planning on doing the rear disc conversion this summer, but that front end rebuilt kinda screwed up my budget

            Dave, I'll have a look at my drums, I'll actually pull them just to be on the safe side.

            Comment


              #7
              If you lightly hit the inside edge of the drum with a die grinder to remove the ridge, it makes future removal and installation of the drum much easier.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                #8
                Actually my drums were fused to the half-axles by rust, even the small sledgehammer didn't want to get them off, so I had to resort to the acetylen torch - once they were off I took the die-grinder along the inside edges, never had a problem ever since. IIRC the ridge you're talking about Thain also got grinded off at that time, but I'll double check, thanks.

                Comment


                  #9
                  what kinda star is it, and do i need a special tool?

                  also do i have to remove the wheel and drum to do this?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    nope! you can use a screwdriver, but its easier with the 'brake spoon' tool... I got one for 10 bucks. just get that wheel off the ground (or both if you need to) and flip up that wheel through the hole in the bottom of the backing plate. You can feel around for it, or peep in with a light. Its toward the rear of the adjusting slot-hole.

                    Last edited by 85crownHPP; 06-18-2006, 11:43 PM.
                    Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                    'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
                    sigpic
                    85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I believe on e of the issues with the rear drums is now the pads that the shoes rub on are stamped into the backing plate. The old school backkinng plates the pads were hardened and spot welldedd to the backing plate. Ever notice how the new one's are worn and grooved. I have them welded and ground flat again and they workk better.
                      Scars are tatoos of the fearless

                      Comment


                        #12
                        i plan to grease mine thourogly
                        Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                        'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
                        sigpic
                        85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

                        Comment


                          #13
                          i always grind them flat if they are grooved.......if they are really bad i'll do some welding and grinding

                          1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                          2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                          1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                          1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                          2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                          1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                          please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            mine were way groovey, so I way lubed em. will do till the rear disks
                            Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                            'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
                            sigpic
                            85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

                            Comment


                              #15
                              thnk you very much for that pic, it helps alot, i dont have my towncar handy but i checked my dd before i saw that pic and couldnt fid it, now that i have an idea ill give it another look.

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