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Thread: Vacuum Elimination?

  1. #1
    87 2 Door CV
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    Default Vacuum Elimination?

    Can all these vacuum lines be eliminated? Not a very good picture, but its that vacuum setup on the passenger fender.


  2. #2
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Thats for the EGR and air bypass valves. The green line goes to the EGR, red is vacuum source. The other ones can be plugged if you'd like. If you want to get fancy, disconnect the plumbing totally to the lower two vacuum solenoids. The upper one that sits by itself is the one for the EGR system. The tees and crap can come out, just leave the little round can hooked into the system as a vacuum reservoir.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    Drivetrain: 5.0 HO, Explorer cam, FMS 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley, SuperCoupe stall converter

    Suspension: Bridgestone Protenza G019 225/60/16 on LSC turbines, 1 3/16" wagon front bar, 1" PI rear bar, cargo coils, KYB GR-2 front shocks, F150 rear air shocks, big front brakes, ES poly front suspension bushings, 00 CVPI steering box, ES poly body mounts, rear disc brakes

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks.

  3. #3
    87 2 Door CV
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    What vacuum lines do I need on the car? I know I need the MAP and that reservoir can.

  4. #4
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Really all of them. There aren't all that many to be honest. One feed to the tree on the firewall, one to the MAP, one to the fuel pressure regulator, one to the control solenoids on the fender, and one to the evap purge solenoid on the fender near the battery.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    Drivetrain: 5.0 HO, Explorer cam, FMS 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley, SuperCoupe stall converter

    Suspension: Bridgestone Protenza G019 225/60/16 on LSC turbines, 1 3/16" wagon front bar, 1" PI rear bar, cargo coils, KYB GR-2 front shocks, F150 rear air shocks, big front brakes, ES poly front suspension bushings, 00 CVPI steering box, ES poly body mounts, rear disc brakes

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks.

  5. #5
    not embarrassed on a scooter 85crownHPP's Avatar
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    Default

    the car will run fine with out them (egr and smog velves), but at what efficiency is questionable.
    gotta have the MAP

  6. #6
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    On an EFI car, in theory it may run lean with the EGR disconnected, something about less oxygen being present so it delivers less fuel. It also reduces pinging at cruise if the EGR system works. The smog pump garbage is worthless tho.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    Drivetrain: 5.0 HO, Explorer cam, FMS 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley, SuperCoupe stall converter

    Suspension: Bridgestone Protenza G019 225/60/16 on LSC turbines, 1 3/16" wagon front bar, 1" PI rear bar, cargo coils, KYB GR-2 front shocks, F150 rear air shocks, big front brakes, ES poly front suspension bushings, 00 CVPI steering box, ES poly body mounts, rear disc brakes

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks.

  7. #7
    Photobucket Paul_'s Avatar
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    Default

    The cruise control on these cars is also controlled by a vacuum. There is a vac line coming off the tree on the firewall that goes to the cruise control servo.
    Save a seal, club a liberal.

  8. #8
    Cult of Personality p71towny's Avatar
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    Im lucky, I only need a very few. I junked all that shit on my pass inner fender.
    Chris - A 20th Century Man \m/ ^.^ \m/

  9. #9
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    Jason, click on the link in my sig, then look in the "vacuum lines" section - this is pretty much as clean as you can do it, and I still have the EGR and cruise fully operational.

    Edit: or just click here.
    Last edited by Archangel; 07-12-2006 at 10:56 PM.

  10. #10
    87 2 Door CV
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    I just find it really messy under the hood. I can't just unplug em all and cap them off, eh? I don't have cruise and couldn't care less about the egr. I'm gonna see what I can do this weekend.

  11. #11
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    Oh well, in that case just pull the red plastic line off the passanger side branch of the vacuum tree (the one on the left side is for the FPR, leave it plugged), cap off the tree's port, and rip off everything - smog pump, hoses, vacuum lines, solenoids, everything. It'll throw codes for the emissions BS, but you don't care about that anyways. For the cruise just plug the hose that goes from the T-ee check valve to the firewall, you can remove the cruise if you please after that.

  12. #12
    There's no welders in Heaven, they all went down to hell
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    Quote Originally Posted by jasonh
    I just find it really messy under the hood. I can't just unplug em all and cap them off, eh? I don't have cruise and couldn't care less about the egr. I'm gonna see what I can do this weekend.

    Convert to a carb and you too, can also have a clean and simple motor! :heyhey:

    2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
    My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

  13. #13
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I'm the wierdo that wants to replace the disconnected smog pump solenoids just to get rid of the error codes. They won't have vacuum to them, but I want an 11. I do need to replace the lines running over there. Maybe I'll look around for red and green vacuum lines to keep it the correct coloring.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    Drivetrain: 5.0 HO, Explorer cam, FMS 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley, SuperCoupe stall converter

    Suspension: Bridgestone Protenza G019 225/60/16 on LSC turbines, 1 3/16" wagon front bar, 1" PI rear bar, cargo coils, KYB GR-2 front shocks, F150 rear air shocks, big front brakes, ES poly front suspension bushings, 00 CVPI steering box, ES poly body mounts, rear disc brakes

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks.

  14. #14
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    Yea I know...old thread...but if the smog pump solenoids are left hooked up electrically and just the vacuum lines removed...will it still set codes? I have a cobbled mess on my car...most of the plastic lines snapped with a light touch.

  15. #15
    I post a lot... GoodSamaritan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mercmarquis View Post
    Convert to a carb and you too, can also have a clean and simple motor! :heyhey:
    +1

    On a side note. Instead of leaving the solenoids hooked up, could the harness be shortened, and a dummy load (resistor, contact closure, etc... whatever the computer is looking for.) be hooked up in their place, to remove the codes? If that harness is on a quick connect, it could be made up as a pigtail and even sold on ebay...

    Wait, I forget sometimes that most box enthusiasts tend to be cheap like me. LOL.
    Owner of the only known 5 speed box wagon with a lift kit.
    AKA, Herkimer the Hillbilly SUV.



    Axle codes
    Open/Lock/Ratio #
    -----------------------
    G / H / 2.26
    B / C / 2.47
    8 / M / 2.73
    7 / - / 3.07
    Y / Z / 3.08
    4 / D / 3.42
    F / R / 3.45
    5 / E / 3.27
    6 / W / 3.73
    2 / K / 3.55
    A / - / 3.63
    J / - / 3.85

  16. #16
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    Default

    Well I'll see how the changes I made tonight affect things. I now have the vacuum source going straight to the EGR solenoid and then straight to the EGR valve. The rest of the lines going to the smog pump stuff is unhooked. The small canister on the right fender is unhooked too. I was going to leave it but I didn't have a vacuum splitter...not sure which part (smog or EGR) it was meant to work with?

  17. #17
    fuck no, not today, thank you kindly 1990LTD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PushnFords View Post
    Well I'll see how the changes I made tonight affect things. I now have the vacuum source going straight to the EGR solenoid and then straight to the EGR valve. The rest of the lines going to the smog pump stuff is unhooked. The small canister on the right fender is unhooked too. I was going to leave it but I didn't have a vacuum splitter...not sure which part (smog or EGR) it was meant to work with?


    Down by the battery? If so, that's part of the EVAP system. It recycles the fumes from the gas tank into manifold vacuum so the motor can burn it. I believe the idea behind it is to keep the pressure down in the fuel tank. If you leave that unhooked it will vent those fumes to atmosphere wherever the canister itself is. Mileage might be worse since the computer is correcting for the (small) amount of fuel it's not seeing burned

    If it's not the evap thingy then forget I said anything.
    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 16" HPP wheels - Summer toy.

    - 2001 Buick Regal LS - Gary Buicy - 3800 Series II - Daily driver.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1990LTD View Post
    Down by the battery?
    Well I unhooked that one too. I started tracing vacuum lines and the top one to the canister inside the fender was broken off. I unhooked a hose splice by the front of the intake (vacuum source to the cannister) and caped it off.

    What I assume is a vacuum reservoir that I unhooked is on the rear of the RH inner fender and held down by two tabs with plastic clips.

  19. #19
    It's my belief that my big balls should be held every night. 91waggin's Avatar
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    Leave the EVAP system hooked up. What happens if it doesn't work is that the pressure will build in the fuel tank until the gas cap reaches its preset limit and vents all of those fumes into the atmosphere. Which stinks, and may get fuel on the car's paint. Also, the computer is expecting the fuel vapors coming in through that system and it might run worse if it doesn't have them.
    --Graham


    91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.

  20. #20
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    you can actually just unplug the smog solenoids entirely. it sets codes, but so does having them there but not plumbed. Doesn't make any difference to how runs.


    evap and egr systems are useful to have. They hurt nothing, and can buy a smidge of fuel economy. win-win IMO. the smog pump on the other hand is a useless waste of space.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    Drivetrain: 5.0 HO, Explorer cam, FMS 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley, SuperCoupe stall converter

    Suspension: Bridgestone Protenza G019 225/60/16 on LSC turbines, 1 3/16" wagon front bar, 1" PI rear bar, cargo coils, KYB GR-2 front shocks, F150 rear air shocks, big front brakes, ES poly front suspension bushings, 00 CVPI steering box, ES poly body mounts, rear disc brakes

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks.

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