What is required for this? The whole axle can be swapped in, right? What all needs to be changed to make this work?
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What is required for this? The whole axle can be swapped in, right? What all needs to be changed to make this work?
You'll need new brake lines, and you also gotta figure out how to hook up the E-brake cables. Swapping the whole axle is possible, and maybe that's exactly what I'll do when time comes.
nah too much trouble to swap the whole rear......they r heavy.......it's mainly a bolt in process, just need to make a simple bracket for the right brake hose, cut and flare 2 brake lines, and cut the e brake cable and use a help brake cable repair kit to hook up the e-brake.......a few bolts, couple wireties, brake fluid, gear oil........look in my thread on mrltd's wagon
scott
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
1989 crown vic gt sedan 5.0 HO
1991 lincoln mark VII bill blass (mini me)
1992 mercury grand marquis, 5.0 HO conversion finished, more to come!
1982 efm and 1986 alaska stokers keeping me warm
Okay, more questions. I know most of the braking power is the front wheels, is there any way to transfer that so the rear wheels provide more braking power? I plan to run skinnies up front and don't want 'em locking up on me if I drive it on the street. Also, do the discs have any effect on what size or width rims you can run? I'm probably going to run 15x10's or so, and want to make sure they'll still fit properly.
When you install the discs your bias will automatically transfer more towards the rear wheels, however the rears are way too easy to lock up even with the stock drums, so imagine what the more powerful discs will do if you jump on the brakes in an emergency situation. If you really want to mess with it you can purchase a regulator valve from Summit or some other place, you install it in-line between the master cylinder and the front brakes, and you can reduce the pressure the fronts will get thus moving the bias towards the rear end.
I have teh rear disc swap and i had skinnies. It will stop pretty hard, but they are easy to lock up. Id suggest getting another set of tires for the streets. Skinnies are inheariently weak. espiscally with a somewhat heavy car, a pot hole or even a good size bump will destroy a lightweight drag wheel. Ive heard of guys in convertible Mustange (abotu 3600#s break wheels turning hard. Stay away from Bogarts for street use. they are a great drag wheel, but are way too weak for street use.
http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
http://secondhandradio.com/
R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06
http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634
The rear disc swap doesn't effect minumum tire size like the front brakes do.
You can put an adjustable proportioning valve on it to bias it more to the rear wheels, but there is only so much the rears can do. Gotta remember that when you brake the wieght comes off the rear wheels.
Like duece said, I wouldn't run the skinnies on the street. Our cars are too heavy and it will be too dangerous.
Scott, how much do you think a shop would charge to install rear disc brakes? What year panther parts should I use? I want new wheels and tires and ugly cast iron drums will look stupid behind a nice set of wheels.Originally Posted by lincolnmania
'90 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
Baseline 5.0L numbers totally stock, 123 rwhp, 239 rwtq
4.6L swap coming soon.
I'll wager that most shops won't touch it. Too much on the line for them, and you have to have a clue of what you are doing.Originally Posted by N A
Pretty much everything from 96-02 are all the same in the rear brake department.
A rear end shop or decent speed shop should be able to do the work. Does anyone have a list of the parts required? (Obviously, new rotors and calipers).
'90 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
Baseline 5.0L numbers totally stock, 123 rwhp, 239 rwtq
4.6L swap coming soon.
The backing plates, rotors, e-brake shoes, caliper, hoses, e-brake cables.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
Drivetrain: 5.0 HO, Explorer cam, FMS 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley, SuperCoupe stall converter
Suspension: Bridgestone Protenza G019 225/60/16 on LSC turbines, 1 3/16" wagon front bar, 1" PI rear bar, cargo coils, KYB GR-2 front shocks, F150 rear air shocks, big front brakes, ES poly front suspension bushings, 00 CVPI steering box, ES poly body mounts, rear disc brakes
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks.
Do you have to remove the rear axles from the donor car to get at the disc brake parts?
Vehicle: 1965 Pontiac Catalina (fastback 2+2)
Chasis: 1982 Ford LTD Country Squire
Drivetrain: 302 V8 carb, AOD, 8.8 with 3.08 gears.
Big Brake swap and front suspension completed.
The axles go through the caliper mounting (backing) plate hence why axles would need to be removed to get the plates.
~David~
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My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob 0-60 in 8.43 sec, 1/4 in 16.75 sec @ 84mph
My 1994 Escort: The Trusty Escort
I wanted to originaly get the whole rear end. However, based on the stickies and lincolnmania's link, I think I want to put discs on the rear end I have. SO, How do I remove my rear axles so I can get to my drum system and intal the disc system? Do I need a slide hammer or anything like that? seals etc...??
Vehicle: 1965 Pontiac Catalina (fastback 2+2)
Chasis: 1982 Ford LTD Country Squire
Drivetrain: 302 V8 carb, AOD, 8.8 with 3.08 gears.
Big Brake swap and front suspension completed.
open the rear up.
Find and remove the pinion bolt. If you don't see it, rotate one of the axles till you find it. Its a small thing, 1/2 or 7/16 head.
Pull the pinion pin out.
Do not turn the axles.
push straight in on the axles and pull the C clip retainer out.
Slide the axles out.
the slide hammer is to remove the outer axle bearings, which I highly suggest replacing along with the axles if they're damaged.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
Drivetrain: 5.0 HO, Explorer cam, FMS 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley, SuperCoupe stall converter
Suspension: Bridgestone Protenza G019 225/60/16 on LSC turbines, 1 3/16" wagon front bar, 1" PI rear bar, cargo coils, KYB GR-2 front shocks, F150 rear air shocks, big front brakes, ES poly front suspension bushings, 00 CVPI steering box, ES poly body mounts, rear disc brakes
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks.
Easy enough. Should I do the bearings just in case?
Vehicle: 1965 Pontiac Catalina (fastback 2+2)
Chasis: 1982 Ford LTD Country Squire
Drivetrain: 302 V8 carb, AOD, 8.8 with 3.08 gears.
Big Brake swap and front suspension completed.
Absolutely do the rear bearings. I'd really suggest rebuilding the whole rear, pinion bearing and seal, inner bearings, outer bearings, outer seals. At a bare minimum, do the outer bearings and outer seals. Make sure you inspect those axles closely, they have a habit of pitting and grooving. If they're worn out, you have to replace them otherwise they will make noise. Repair bearings don't seem to work very well on these.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
Drivetrain: 5.0 HO, Explorer cam, FMS 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley, SuperCoupe stall converter
Suspension: Bridgestone Protenza G019 225/60/16 on LSC turbines, 1 3/16" wagon front bar, 1" PI rear bar, cargo coils, KYB GR-2 front shocks, F150 rear air shocks, big front brakes, ES poly front suspension bushings, 00 CVPI steering box, ES poly body mounts, rear disc brakes
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks.
another question, what is the brake rotor interchangabilty for the rears? I noticed on ADTR's site that the offer slotted rotors, and one is made for 95-02, and another 98-02. Are all rotors from 92 up interchangeable? The only difference is the caliper mounting setup right?
Andrew, Certified Car Nut in Training
Resto Project - Vicky - 1987 LTD Crown Victoria: 17x8 Gunmetal Gray Coys C-5 wheels, 235/55-17 Falken Ziex ZE-502 tires. 79 LTD Grille, Taillights, and Turn Signals, Blue LED Dash Lights, PI Rear Sway Bar, 140 MPH Speedometer, Dual Exhaust w/ Mustang Headers
DD - Victor - 2000 Crown Victoria LX: Headunit, Speakers, and Amp Only.