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I'd like to see where the lowers are sitting now...
Eh, see 'em in the one pic...Looks OK, but dunno about the geometry...
Might want to get the alignment checked, but if you haven't replaced the control arm bushings I wouldn't bother though. Also make sure your bumpstops are in good shape...
Every thing seems to be fine, I'll wait till I do the big brake swap and add some new poly bushings and stuff and have it aligned, till then everything handles great.
I forgot to measure this morning but the frame right behind the front tires sits 5 3/4" off the ground.
2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene
yessir...sounds low but i havent scraped on anything yet.
2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene
Lil bit better pics, wanted to take more but the batteries died. Here ya go!
This is a pic to give you some perspective of how low it is.
2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene
When we get the new spring s for the cop car I want the top of the trunk to sit level with the ground with the 19s in front and the 20's in back. we want oober stiff shocks for it I was thinking that koni would be really stiff but I dont know were to get them I have tryed the web site for koni and they had nothing
Dont look for applications for Panther they most likely wont list them. look up shocks for a 1970 Camaro.
looks about 2" lower than mine... I was comparing the centercap level on yours to mine.
Yeah, 2" lower than my car too, and I thought mine 7.75" frame-to-pavement are low! Camber will change a lot with such a drop, as a result of which the outboard edge of the tires will wear out pretty fast.
Your lower arm should be as level as possible or you will get bump steer .Your handling might suffer also. Allignment might be hard to dial in too. You should check the distance from your rubber bump stop on the lower arm to its contact patch. If its going to hit often something is going to bend or break. You cant lower these cars much the ability to do it just wasnt designed in to them. The old strut arm stuff was much better.
Thank you I was not sure if I could use the newer shocks but since they do ofer shock for the newer models that will make it a lot easier, how about springs we want this thing to take those turns flat um as possible.
Springs - Blaze runs 925lb/in, Dave and MrLTD use 1000lb/in, I have 1050lb/in - guess something around 1000 will do it fine. Just make sure to match the shocks to the springs, otherwise you ain't really doing anything but reduce body roll. I really wanna try those 1300lb/in springs, but don't have the right shocks just yet. Don't forget the swaybars too, install the fattest possible - Addco used to make a 1.25" solid one IIRC, but haven't seen it recently. Station wagon front bar, Dave's adjustable control arms (when he's ready to mass produce them), and a rear swaybar out of a newer Panther might do the trick for you.
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