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    #16
    My car was doing this garbage too, but it would wander back and forth from cold to lukewarm. Popped the hose and it roasted me out. New sensor installed and my heater works wonderfully again.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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      #17
      The 'roast' method was interesting on my 1.5 hour commutes from my college town to near O'Hare Chicago everyday one winter. I'd either dress warm with gloves and such and keep the heat off, or turn the heat on and end up having to use the windows to keep cool!

      I used to joke you could bake bread in the car, heh.

      '85 2-Door Crown Victoria
      302 HO, -0.022" E7 Heads, Weiand Dual Plane Intake, Edelbrock 1406 Carb, Mechanical Fuel Pump, HEI Distributor, 180* T-stat, Transgo Shift Kit, HO Governor, Lokar TV/Throttle Cable Setup, B&M Torq Master 2000 RPM Stall Converter, FRPP Trans Cooler, Mustang Shorty Headers, 2.25" Dual Exhaust, Flowtech H-pipe (no converters), Hooker AeroChamber Mufflers, Side-exit Exhaust w/ Chromed 2.5" Tips, '02 PI F/R Shocks, Cut 2004 PI Front Springs in the Rear, PI Rear Sway Bar, 17" SAP Wheels, 245/50/Z17 Michelin Pilot A/S Tires, Cold A/C, Cruise Control, 4.10 Rear End Gears, Trac Lok Diff.
      '04 Crown Victoria LX Sport, '02 Jeep Liberty
      '83 Suzuki GS 1100E Motorcycle[/color]

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        #18
        Damn ATC...
        '89 Ford LTD Crown Vic - '92 Ford F-150 Custom -
        '95 Ford Bronco XL -

        sigpic :rebel:

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          #19
          Originally posted by Dave84
          ya thats the same with me un pluged that sensor and instant heat. i work at the wreckers so ill get a new senser,,
          Did you unplug the air temperature sensor or the servo that operates the blend door?


          HO with Explorer Cam, Electric Fan, Cop Sway Bars, Dual exhaust with no mufflers, 15x7" American Racing; 215/70R15's front, 255/60R15's rear, 3.55's with Trak-Lok.

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            #20
            Unplug the vacuum line that goes into the bronze canister looking thing behind the left side of the glovebox.

            '85 2-Door Crown Victoria
            302 HO, -0.022" E7 Heads, Weiand Dual Plane Intake, Edelbrock 1406 Carb, Mechanical Fuel Pump, HEI Distributor, 180* T-stat, Transgo Shift Kit, HO Governor, Lokar TV/Throttle Cable Setup, B&M Torq Master 2000 RPM Stall Converter, FRPP Trans Cooler, Mustang Shorty Headers, 2.25" Dual Exhaust, Flowtech H-pipe (no converters), Hooker AeroChamber Mufflers, Side-exit Exhaust w/ Chromed 2.5" Tips, '02 PI F/R Shocks, Cut 2004 PI Front Springs in the Rear, PI Rear Sway Bar, 17" SAP Wheels, 245/50/Z17 Michelin Pilot A/S Tires, Cold A/C, Cruise Control, 4.10 Rear End Gears, Trac Lok Diff.
            '04 Crown Victoria LX Sport, '02 Jeep Liberty
            '83 Suzuki GS 1100E Motorcycle[/color]

            Comment


              #21
              ya it was the bronze thing, where AOD said

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                #22
                I'd love to come up with some better way of controlling this, but I don't really have the know-how to implement it. I was thinking some sort of electronic temperature monitoring system that would control the vacuum somehow. I'd want it to be 100% transparent to anyone in the car, the temperature lever would work as normal, but instead of a mechanical calibrated vacuum leak, it would be an electronic calibrated vacuum leak. The stock system actually works by tightening/loosening a tension spring on a metal plate. The metal plate reacts with the abient temperature, and eases or increases pressure on a rubber diaphram that seals or leaks as needed. It truly is a Rube Goldberg like solution for climate control. The newer cars have electronic sensors and use an electric servo motor (the famous blend door actuator) to control climate. Its a lot more accurate and stable, at least untill the motor breaks and the climate control shits the bed. Its also a lot more involved to fix on a newer car since you have to drop the duct work to get the motor out. Ours just requires pulling the dash pad and is at most a 2 hour job requiring minimal tools and effort.
                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                Originally posted by phayzer5
                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                Comment

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