my heater dosent work, it was chilly this morning and i turned my heater on and it constently blows cold air even after 20 mins, everything is hooked up and you can hear all the vaccume flaps working in the dash. any idea's how to fix this?
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my heater dosent work, it was chilly this morning and i turned my heater on and it constently blows cold air even after 20 mins, everything is hooked up and you can hear all the vaccume flaps working in the dash. any idea's how to fix this?
is the heater core good?
1989 mercury grand marquis gs / 2014 ford focus s daily driver
302 lopo with ho upper/ aod with trans go shift kit
k code 3:55 posi rear/big brake swap tow package car
it should be good its all hooked up and not leaking,,, could it be cloged?
it could be? let me check my shop manual and back to you
1989 mercury grand marquis gs / 2014 ford focus s daily driver
302 lopo with ho upper/ aod with trans go shift kit
k code 3:55 posi rear/big brake swap tow package car
hey dave84 I checked my shop manual and yeah if it's clug it woun't heat also the hoses might be clogged I would back flush everything or put new heater core in. you said everything is working right so that's most likely the problemOriginally Posted by Dave84
1989 mercury grand marquis gs / 2014 ford focus s daily driver
302 lopo with ho upper/ aod with trans go shift kit
k code 3:55 posi rear/big brake swap tow package car
Couple of questions first, did you change the thermostat out with a 160* one or was it replaced recently? 160* t-stats will result in poor gas mileage and will take awhile for your heat to warm up. Hook up a temp gauge if you can for cheap, they are easy to install and a great tool since there is only an idiot light to let you know the car is overheating.
Is the climate control lever set to heat and the temperature lever is in the red, I forget to move the temperature lever sometimes. Were you using the AC during the day, the AC clutch might not be disengaging properly or you have a faulty AC switch, leaving it stuck on. One more, do you have automatic climate control or the standard setup?
If the heater core is clogged badly, it would probably leak or it would cause a big pressure buildup in the cooling system. Could cause your car to overheat if its bad enough. To check if the heater core has failed, first check for leaks. The insulation under the carpet on the passenger side will stay damp if a heater core is leaking, so if its wet, its bad.
Try flushing the system out like gabegt90 said, you can buy a prestone or another brand cooling system flush kit for less than $10 at an auto parts store. Check the condition of your hoses and replace if you need to if you flush out the system
Last edited by 87mefull; 08-12-2006 at 12:11 AM.
Current rides - 1991 Ford Thunderbird 3.8 v6 (gas saver/DD) - New Heads/Headgaskets with ARP studs, Air Silencer Delete, 70mm MAF, Plasti-dipped Matte Black with a Silver Metalflake Overlay, Muffler Delete, some LED's, 30.233 MPG for high MPG average!
2006 Jeep Wrangler 4WD (fun vehicle/backup DD) - 4.0/6spd - too many mods to list.
Associated Panthers:
Father's 1994 Ford Crown Victoria - Stock, 45,000 miles.
Sold in 2007 - 1987 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "Grandpa Special" 2 door.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2128327
How "cold" was it up in Canada this morning?It's still August! You don't need your heater on yet.
We know it's September in Boston, MA because the morning is full of female college freshmen nipples poking out through their shirts on the way to classes.![]()
'90 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
Baseline 5.0L numbers totally stock, 123 rwhp, 239 rwtq
5.4L swap coming soon.
Easy way to check your heater core is to take the 2 hoses off the fire wall on passenger side that go to the heater core, and run some water through it with a garden hose. If it sprays back in your face and doesent go through its cloged. Mine got cloged and i put about 3 cans of carb cleaner in the heater core and hit it with compressed air. Blew some nasty s**t out and put the 2 hoses back on and mine works great. I wouldent recomend it. But i was willing to try anything, because i didnt feel like taking the dash out.
Stock 91 Merc GM GS 5.0L EFI, AOD, 2.73 Open diff
Current Best 1/4 Mile 17.175 = 165 RWHP 190 Engine HP
http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/15193
well my heater works now the problem was the flap to the heater core wasent opening so i had to on hook the vaccume line and as soon as i did that it started working so now ill have to try to fix it propper.No shit, it was just cool enough that i thought i would try it to see if it worked before fall came so i wasent stuck trying to fix it then..How "cold" was it up in Canada this morning? It's still August! You don't need your heater on yet.
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I was playing with you.Originally Posted by Dave84
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'90 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
Baseline 5.0L numbers totally stock, 123 rwhp, 239 rwtq
5.4L swap coming soon.
it's good to get in working now then to not have it working in 30 degree weatherOriginally Posted by Dave84
1989 mercury grand marquis gs / 2014 ford focus s daily driver
302 lopo with ho upper/ aod with trans go shift kit
k code 3:55 posi rear/big brake swap tow package car
Dumb question but, do you have ATC "climate control" in your car? I remeber reading somewhere that sometimes there is a vacuum leak or something which causes the blend door not to open. Which gives you no heat...
2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene
Merq beat me to it, if you have ATC there is a sensor under the dash cover / above the glovebox that controls a vacuum switch just behind the glovebox. I used to have to unplug that vacuum line to get heat in the winters on my old car. I believe the sensor was bad, but I never replaced it.
~Adam
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'85 2-Door Crown Victoria
302 HO, -0.022" E7 Heads, Weiand Dual Plane Intake, Edelbrock 1406 Carb, Mechanical Fuel Pump, HEI Distributor, 180* T-stat, Transgo Shift Kit, HO Governor, Lokar TV/Throttle Cable Setup, B&M Torq Master 2000 RPM Stall Converter, FRPP Trans Cooler, Mustang Shorty Headers, 2.25" Dual Exhaust, Flowtech H-pipe (no converters), Hooker AeroChamber Mufflers, Side-exit Exhaust w/ Chromed 2.5" Tips, '02 PI F/R Shocks, Cut 2004 PI Front Springs in the Rear, PI Rear Sway Bar, 17" SAP Wheels, 245/50/Z17 Michelin Pilot A/S Tires, Cold A/C, Cruise Control, 4.10 Rear End Gears, Trac Lok Diff.
'04 Crown Victoria LX Sport, '02 Jeep Liberty
'83 Suzuki GS 1100E Motorcycle[/color]
ya thats the same with me un pluged that sensor and instant heat.i work at the wreckers so ill get a new senser,,
Cool, glad it was an easy fix for ya.
2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene
My car was doing this garbage too, but it would wander back and forth from cold to lukewarm. Popped the hose and it roasted me out. New sensor installed and my heater works wonderfully again.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
The 'roast' method was interesting on my 1.5 hour commutes from my college town to near O'Hare Chicago everyday one winter. I'd either dress warm with gloves and such and keep the heat off, or turn the heat on and end up having to use the windows to keep cool!
I used to joke you could bake bread in the car, heh.![]()
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'85 2-Door Crown Victoria
302 HO, -0.022" E7 Heads, Weiand Dual Plane Intake, Edelbrock 1406 Carb, Mechanical Fuel Pump, HEI Distributor, 180* T-stat, Transgo Shift Kit, HO Governor, Lokar TV/Throttle Cable Setup, B&M Torq Master 2000 RPM Stall Converter, FRPP Trans Cooler, Mustang Shorty Headers, 2.25" Dual Exhaust, Flowtech H-pipe (no converters), Hooker AeroChamber Mufflers, Side-exit Exhaust w/ Chromed 2.5" Tips, '02 PI F/R Shocks, Cut 2004 PI Front Springs in the Rear, PI Rear Sway Bar, 17" SAP Wheels, 245/50/Z17 Michelin Pilot A/S Tires, Cold A/C, Cruise Control, 4.10 Rear End Gears, Trac Lok Diff.
'04 Crown Victoria LX Sport, '02 Jeep Liberty
'83 Suzuki GS 1100E Motorcycle[/color]
Did you unplug the air temperature sensor or the servo that operates the blend door?Originally Posted by Dave84
HO with Explorer Cam, Electric Fan, Cop Sway Bars, Dual exhaust with no mufflers, 15x7" American Racing; 215/70R15's front, 255/60R15's rear, 3.55's with Trak-Lok.
Unplug the vacuum line that goes into the bronze canister looking thing behind the left side of the glovebox.
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'85 2-Door Crown Victoria
302 HO, -0.022" E7 Heads, Weiand Dual Plane Intake, Edelbrock 1406 Carb, Mechanical Fuel Pump, HEI Distributor, 180* T-stat, Transgo Shift Kit, HO Governor, Lokar TV/Throttle Cable Setup, B&M Torq Master 2000 RPM Stall Converter, FRPP Trans Cooler, Mustang Shorty Headers, 2.25" Dual Exhaust, Flowtech H-pipe (no converters), Hooker AeroChamber Mufflers, Side-exit Exhaust w/ Chromed 2.5" Tips, '02 PI F/R Shocks, Cut 2004 PI Front Springs in the Rear, PI Rear Sway Bar, 17" SAP Wheels, 245/50/Z17 Michelin Pilot A/S Tires, Cold A/C, Cruise Control, 4.10 Rear End Gears, Trac Lok Diff.
'04 Crown Victoria LX Sport, '02 Jeep Liberty
'83 Suzuki GS 1100E Motorcycle[/color]