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    #31
    Originally posted by 85MercPark View Post
    Are front VS rear any different?
    Don't think so; leastways, the shaft-and-magnet part I've had out appears to be the same. I once swapped a good rear-door brush assembly to the front when the brushes were totally shot and I was having absolutely zero luck finding replacements.
    2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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      #32
      I meant removal wise.
      2000 Grand Marquis LS
      2000 F150 XLT 6 inches of lift.
      1987 Bill Blass Mark VII - Sold
      1985 Mercury Grand Marquis Colony Park- SOLD. to a little old lady
      Mercury Owners Group member
      Save The Whales, Restore an Old Station Wagon!!

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        #33
        zounds!!!!!

        why all the taking out of the regulators???
        you can drill 3 holes and remove 3 bolts holding the motor, OR drille out 8? rivets including the ones holding the glass, fenagle the regulator out of the door, remove 3 bolts holding the motor, fenagle the regulator back in, then replace 8 rivets including the ones holding the glass!!?!? you mangs crazy!

        I have removed rear door window motors without drilling or riveting hooray ratcheting wrench.
        Getting them back in that way might be hard (I was only harvesting) in general Id say the rear ones are easier still.

        LtDaddy sorry we didnt see your inquiries here in time but it looks like you figured things out
        Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
        'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
        sigpic
        85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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          #34
          Originally posted by 85crownHPP* View Post
          zounds!!!!!

          why all the taking out of the regulators???
          you can drill 3 holes and remove 3 bolts holding the motor, OR drille out 8? rivets including the ones holding the glass, fenagle the regulator out of the door, remove 3 bolts holding the motor, fenagle the regulator back in, then replace 8 rivets including the ones holding the glass!!?!? you mangs crazy!

          I have removed rear door window motors without drilling or riveting hooray ratcheting wrench.
          Getting them back in that way might be hard (I was only harvesting) in general Id say the rear ones are easier still.

          LtDaddy sorry we didnt see your inquiries here in time but it looks like you figured things out

          Yeah I drilled the dimples on the driver side door this time. Much MUCH more easier. Last time when the passenger door went I drilled the rivets. That sucked ass.

          Im currently riding motorless in the 2 front windows. the windows still go up and down, you just have to move them with your hands. I find myself trying to use the window button, which I think is hilarious.

          as for the re-build of the motors, I havent had a chance to go harvesting yet. I do know that the springs out of ball point pens and cigarette lighters work great for the spring behind the brushes.

          I'm gonna pull prob 8 motors from the yard when i get the time, I figure that should be enough parts to overhaul all 4 windows plus have some spare parts.
          1987 MGM 126K 2" True Duel flowmaster 40's 3" tipped exhuast, Tinted 20% all way round, individual bank A/F guages, tach.

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            #35
            Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
            2) Is the plastic gearey thing in MercDaddy's fourth picture the thing that breaks when the regulator breaks? If so, is that thing easy to obtain from parts houses?
            yessir

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              #36
              Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post
              yessir
              Then why do bodyshops want hundreds of dollars to replace them? Those look pretty easy to get to!
              2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                #37
                quite easy.
                If you need only the small round bushings, they cost under $10. the gearkits are more like $30...? vs a reman motor for 60-80........ a shop would just charge you 100 some for a rebuilt motor and prolly 1.5 hours labor.
                Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
                sigpic
                85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

                Comment


                  #38
                  Originally posted by 85crownHPP* View Post
                  quite easy.
                  If you need only the small round bushings, they cost under $10. the gearkits are more like $30...? vs a reman motor for 60-80........ a shop would just charge you 100 some for a rebuilt motor and prolly 1.5 hours labor.
                  What a coincidence, assuming $100/hr that comes right to the $250 a nearby collision place quoted me. I'm thinking I'm going to study this here tidbit on bodywork and do the job myself!
                  2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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