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Thread: Questions about changing timing chain cover gasket and chain

  1. #1
    panther lover forever gabegt90's Avatar
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    screwy Questions about changing timing chain cover gasket and chain

    I'm going to change my timing chain cover gasket and chain in a few weeks I can't change now because Of school. I have a few questions. first of all will a double roller fit right in? What's the best way to take the crank bolt off? I read fatnasty's thread But I need to get some better tools. What's the best gasket to get for timing chain cover? Can I rent the balancer remover tool at advance auto? also does the compressor need to come off? any info on steps of this job will be great thanks mangs

    1989 mercury grand marquis gs / 1994 geo prizm lsi daily driver/work car
    302 lopo with ho upper/ aod with trans go shift kit
    k code 3:55 posi rear/big brake swap tow package car

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    A.K.A Kaptain Kanuck, Your Connection To The Great Land Of Eternal Winter and Incredibly Rusty Cars 91LTDProject's Avatar
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    Blaze is the man to ask, he just changed everything you mentioned, and had a thread about it. lists all the parts and parts numbers he bought and used. Actually n/m, his is a totally different engine, so parts may be different, but the basic procedures probly the same. Check out his car domain page, its got pics of the change.

  3. #3
    There's no welders in Heaven, they all went down to hell
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    If I'm not mistaken you already have a double roller timing chain, when they switched to a roller cam and lifter that was also added. Make sure the motor is at #1 TDC on the compression stroke then you can start. All the accessories must be removed from the front of the motor but you dont have to diconnect any lines just move them out of the way. Once you get the accesorries off, the water neck and water pump has to come off. You have to unbolt the pulley from the balancer. To get the balancer off, I used my serpentine belt to keep it from turning while I used a breaker bar to unscrew the the bolt. Then get a gear puller and pull it off, but make sure it doesnt fall and hit the ground when it pops off. Then just unbolt the cover. Unbolt the cam gear from the cam and slide it off along with the crank gear and replace. And to get the balancer back on just slide it on and use the crank bolt to get it back on.

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    Usual Suspect Freshmeat's Avatar
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    Yes- you have a double roller timing chain. Just go get a Cloyes or equivalent stock replacement assembly from the parts store (I think it's $20) and use RTV for timing cover seal. Change out the front main while you have the timing cover off since it's right there.
    Removing the radiator makes it easier, but it's not necessary.
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    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    The AC compressor probably doesn't need to come off, but any brackets that attach to the water pump need to come off. I don't recall having to pull the compressor completely to do a water pump on mine (I've put 3 on the car now). Thats actually something else you really should replace while you're in there just because it has to come off anyway. The stock gasket is a paper like thing, and a normal Fel Pro or whatever timing gasket set should do the trick. That set ought to include the timing cover to block gasket, the rubber section for the front of the oil pan, the water pump to timing cover gaskets, and possibly the crank seal too. Definitely replace the crank seal if its off. I'd also give the balancer a close inspection, and if the rubber is cracked or starting to push out, replace it.

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    Has-been that never was. Blaze86Vic's Avatar
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    Get the felpro gasket kit. The one that comes with the front crank seal. Any double roller OE replacement will work.

    To pull the crank bolt the best thing to do is use an impact ratchet. But if that is unavailable you can use an extension and prop a long ratchet up against the frame and tap the ignition. If you go this route please be EXTREMELY careful and make sure you have the ratchet rested up against the correct side of the from to pull the bolt lose, and not tighten it.

    A lot of the parts are different with my engine, but the stuff is basically the same. The Felpro gasket kit is the same for all of them. The kit has all the gaskets for each different water pump, and the cover gasket is the same.

  7. #7
    panther lover forever gabegt90's Avatar
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    Good to know I think fel pro are better as for the chain I'm probley going to get mine from comp cams from summit racing also I might ask mike to see if he has a puller

    1989 mercury grand marquis gs / 1994 geo prizm lsi daily driver/work car
    302 lopo with ho upper/ aod with trans go shift kit
    k code 3:55 posi rear/big brake swap tow package car

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    Has-been that never was. Blaze86Vic's Avatar
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    If you want you can get the one I got, it will work with your engine just the same. I has the ability for you to adjust cam advance if you wish, and both gears are billet, which was why I got it.

    http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=12870

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    panther lover forever gabegt90's Avatar
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    hey john is billet steel better vs other metals or steels

    1989 mercury grand marquis gs / 1994 geo prizm lsi daily driver/work car
    302 lopo with ho upper/ aod with trans go shift kit
    k code 3:55 posi rear/big brake swap tow package car

  10. #10
    Has-been that never was. Blaze86Vic's Avatar
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    Yes. Billet steel is pretty much extruded steel, it's a little stronger and more wear resistant.

  11. #11
    slow and low
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    Quote Originally Posted by gabegt90
    I'm going to change my timing chain cover gasket and chain in a few weeks I can't change now because Of school. I have a few questions. first of all will a double roller fit right in? What's the best way to take the crank bolt off? I read fatnasty's thread But I need to get some better tools. What's the best gasket to get for timing chain cover? Can I rent the balancer remover tool at advance auto? also does the compressor need to come off? any info on steps of this job will be great thanks mangs
    double roller is whats under there, atleast thats whats under the 87. I used the std stock replacement single tooth timing set, as opposed to the double tooth set... u might wanna check clearences between the timing cover and the fuel pump eccentric if you go with a aftermarket timing set.

    crank bolt is a 27mm IIRC. i used 1/2" drive 32" long breaker ratchet and wedged a screw driver between the bell housing and flywheel....

    I believe autozone offers free tool loan service, ( refundable deposit )

    Fel-pro Timing cover set = teh win ( 2 piece oil pan gasket kit )

    the a/c compressor bracket is attached to the water pump which needs to be removed. you can leave the compressor attached to the lower bracket. I removed everything for a good cleaning and fresh painting... u can use blazes photos for visual aid after waterpump removal as blazes motor has a counter clockwise rotation and uses the timing cover housing as a backing for the waterpump impeller..... yours has a self-enclosed impellar.

    dont drop the camshaft dowel pin in the pan and cover the front of the pan with something to keep stuff out.....

    BTW gearwrenches = Teh win.......

    Id leave it if its not leaking for WARMER WEATHER
    1987 MGM 126K 2" True Duel flowmaster 40's 3" tipped exhuast, Tinted 20% all way round, individual bank A/F guages, tach.


  12. #12
    Has-been that never was. Blaze86Vic's Avatar
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    Yeah, it's not really gonna be fun in the cold, but if you have to you have to.

    The timing chain set I got was exactly the same height as the factory one, so it won't have any clearance problems with the cover. I think most all of them are like this. Wouldn't be much good if they weren't, as there are no aftermarket timing covers.

  13. #13
    slow and low
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    IIRC i think turbo had a run in with a eccentric timing cover clearence issue.... I could be wrong....
    1987 MGM 126K 2" True Duel flowmaster 40's 3" tipped exhuast, Tinted 20% all way round, individual bank A/F guages, tach.


  14. #14
    panther lover forever gabegt90's Avatar
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    One more thing what is the fuel pump eccentric? I don't understand that

    1989 mercury grand marquis gs / 1994 geo prizm lsi daily driver/work car
    302 lopo with ho upper/ aod with trans go shift kit
    k code 3:55 posi rear/big brake swap tow package car

  15. #15
    Has-been that never was. Blaze86Vic's Avatar
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    Its essentially a pulley that is drilled offset to pump a mechanical fuel pump. Which you do not have, because your car is fuel injected and does not have a mechanical fuel pump.
    Last edited by Blaze86Vic; 12-09-2006 at 11:12 PM.

  16. #16
    panther lover forever gabegt90's Avatar
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    I just found out that it is the water pump gasket that is bad but still I said to my self next time I change my water pump I'm chaning the timing chain and cover gasket I have to anyway because the front of the pan gasket is stating to leak

    1989 mercury grand marquis gs / 1994 geo prizm lsi daily driver/work car
    302 lopo with ho upper/ aod with trans go shift kit
    k code 3:55 posi rear/big brake swap tow package car

  17. #17

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    Couple pointers.

    Tape over the front of the exposed oil pan when scraping the old timing cover gasket off the front of the block. I didn't do this and a piece of the gasket got wedged in the oil pump seizing it. Luckily I noticed I had 0 oil pressure and turned it off before the bearings seized.

    Secondly, here is my trick for removing the damper bolt.

    Remove the crank pulley. You can hold the pulley from rotating if necessary by having one breaker bar/socket (15/16") on the damper bolt while you are loosening the 4 crank pulley bolts. With the pulley off, thread 2 bolts into adjacent crank pulley holes and put a pry bar in between them so that you can turn the crank clockwise with the pry bar. Holding the pry bar, use the breaker bar/socket to loosen the damper bolt.

    Good luck.

    Tom

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