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Thread: Complete box panther gauge installation how-to

  1. #21
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Only thing with LED bulbs is they tend to be a bit directional. The lighting might not spread nice and evenly like standard bulbs.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  2. #22
    not embarrassed on a scooter 85crownHPP's Avatar
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    Actually, depending on the cluster, you might want the directional type bulbs. I noticed in the 90-91 speedos they use fiber-optic like materiel to channel the light to the outer face of the speedo. The little collector sits right in front of the bulb, so it might work better like that.

    My older speedo doesnt work like that , so I used a side emitting style (inverted lense) LED replacement

  3. #23
    Screamin' Machine BlackHawkA4's Avatar
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    Hey, Installing a tach. What's a good place to put the wire from inside the car to the engine bay? Didn't see it if you posted it.
    1989 LTD Crown Victoria LX.
    -3.73s' w/ Track Loc - KYB GR-2 Shocks All Around - TRW HD Cargo Coils Rear - Moog Front Coils - 1 Inch Rear Sway Bar - 4.6 Lower Air Box- Stock Headers - Off Road H Pipe - Turbo Mufflers.

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  5. #25
    Photobucket Paul_'s Avatar
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    Dumb question, but what are the thread sizes for the senders? For example, 1/2" by 14npt.... What is ours? I'm referring to the oil pressure and the temp gauges. I'll have to determine trans temp at another time lol. The reason I ask is because I'm looking next year to install a set of Dakota Digital gauges(trans temp, volts, oil pressure, coolant temp)right above my hvac controls. Unfortunately they do not come with senders.
    Save a seal, club a liberal.

  6. #26
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    oil pressure is 1/4" NPT pipe thread. Not sure on the temp sender but its a standard size. I want to say 1/2".

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  7. #27
    It's all about ME! monterey1962's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 85crownHPP*
    TACHOMETER

    the only hard part is figuring out where to put it!

    simply tap into the coil, here it appears to be in the green wire.

    What did you use for a key on power source for the tach? Also, what did you tap for the light source? What gauge wire should be used to extend the tach wire to the coil?

    How hard is it to get through that hole in the firewall and under the dash? Anything to watch out for?
    Three's company. Six is a fleet.

    1978 F-150 Custom
    1989 Crown Victoria LX
    1995 F-150 XLT
    1998 Crown Victoria LX
    2004 Crown Victoria LX Sport
    2011 Mustang GT

  8. #28
    It's all about ME! monterey1962's Avatar
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    One more thing: Will hooking in the gauges interfere with the EFI comp? Do I have to set it up so that the idiot lights and wiring are still connected?
    Three's company. Six is a fleet.

    1978 F-150 Custom
    1989 Crown Victoria LX
    1995 F-150 XLT
    1998 Crown Victoria LX
    2004 Crown Victoria LX Sport
    2011 Mustang GT

  9. #29
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    What did you use for a key on power source for the tach? Also, what did you tap for the light source?
    I tapped off something in the fuse box. The radio fuse I think. They make these neat little doohickys that plug in place of a fuse, then the fuse plugs into the top of it as a power tap. Its a small black thing about the size of a fuse with a short pigtail coming from it. I found them in Advance I think. Same thing for the lights, its tapped off the dash light fuse. Dimmer even works correctly that way, which frankly surprised me.

    What gauge wire should be used to extend the tach wire to the coil?
    I think I have 16 or 18 ga or something. Whatever I had laying around. It doesn't need to be very thick as its not carrying any substantial amount of current.

    How hard is it to get through that hole in the firewall and under the dash? Anything to watch out for?
    I fished it through a grommet that had been previously removed under the brake booster. Nothing special to watch out for, tho the grommets can be a bastard to poke through. I've actually just drilled holes in the rubber grommets before to fish wiring through.

    One more thing: Will hooking in the gauges interfere with the EFI comp? Do I have to set it up so that the idiot lights and wiring are still connected?
    No. The idiot light sender circuit is totally independant of the ECM. The engine temp sender for the computer is over by the thermostat in a fitting between the heater core hose and the manifold, and the ECM doesn't monitor oil pressure.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  10. #30
    It's all about ME! monterey1962's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info.

    Here's the fuse tap I went with (actually, it's the only one I could find in town).



    What size fuse should the tach need? 5amp? 10amp? Can this be used as the power source for the other gauges? If so, what size fuse could I get away with?
    Three's company. Six is a fleet.

    1978 F-150 Custom
    1989 Crown Victoria LX
    1995 F-150 XLT
    1998 Crown Victoria LX
    2004 Crown Victoria LX Sport
    2011 Mustang GT

  11. #31
    not embarrassed on a scooter 85crownHPP's Avatar
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    10amp should be plenty - they dont need much current at all.
    gadget pretty much summed it up.
    For mine I used the cig lighter wiring (has its own fuse) for power and ground, and tapped into the ashtray light wire for illumination.
    The hole I used was almost clear from under the dash, just the edge of a peice of insulation in the way.

    edit: I forgot to mention my key on source... all I did was tap the key-on wire for the radio, and used that to trigger the relay thats powered by the cig lighter wiring.
    I also have a bridged barrier strip you can see in there... since i have many many accessories

    * this pic is old (pre-console) but the electronics in the ashtray cavity are the same*


  12. #32
    not embarrassed on a scooter 85crownHPP's Avatar
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    Transmission temperature sensor

    After dropping the pan, I found this to be the best spot to put it.
    What you are looking at is a B&M transmission pan drain plug kit with an electric temperature sensor installed in place of the drain plug. All you have to do is drill a 1/2" hole and bolt in the special nuts and gasket. No leaks so far!



  13. #33
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    None of my guages are actually fused independant of the radio fuse. I didn't see the point in adding more inline fuse holders to tap off a circuit that was already protected by a fuse. They draw such a small amount of power I wasn't worried about them popping anything either. So far, no problems.

    And I sorta fibbed. I have the wire taps, but they aren't actually in use right now. I currently have wires jammed under the fuse blades. The taps are in the trunk, but I've been either too busy or too lazy to install them.

    Pete: is that an electric or mechanical sender? Looks electric. What temp does your trans read?

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  14. #34
    not embarrassed on a scooter 85crownHPP's Avatar
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    yep, electric. So far the hottest its gotten is about 130 degrees... my engine temperature reads about 170-180 (w/180 degree T-stat). At first I thought the gauge was broken, becuause driving around town it never came off its minimun of 100.
    I guess the cold weather and not having an AC condensor keep it extra cool
    Of course the guage could be off... I guess Ill have to wait till summer and do some mountain driving to see for sure

  15. #35
    It's all about ME! monterey1962's Avatar
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    Couple more questions:

    1. Where does the ammeter hook up to under the hood? Any fuses needed for this or is it a direct line to the gauge?

    2. My temp gauge is mechanical, but what I want to know is, is that copper line hollow and allowing coolant inside the cab or is it just a copper wire?
    Three's company. Six is a fleet.

    1978 F-150 Custom
    1989 Crown Victoria LX
    1995 F-150 XLT
    1998 Crown Victoria LX
    2004 Crown Victoria LX Sport
    2011 Mustang GT

  16. #36
    Cult of Personality p71towny's Avatar
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    1. A volt meter would be a better way to go, safer as well.

    2. Its just copper, no coolant will enter into your cab.

    O.T. Pete, what in teh fuck looks like the devils finger coming out of your mirror adjuster?
    Chris - A 20th Century Man \m/ ^.^ \m/

  17. #37
    It's all about ME! monterey1962's Avatar
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    1. A volt meter would be a better way to go, safer as well.
    Safer? How? What's the difference anyway? Is a fuse needed in the line?
    Last edited by monterey1962; 01-25-2006 at 10:03 AM.
    Three's company. Six is a fleet.

    1978 F-150 Custom
    1989 Crown Victoria LX
    1995 F-150 XLT
    1998 Crown Victoria LX
    2004 Crown Victoria LX Sport
    2011 Mustang GT

  18. #38
    GMN Founder Grand Marquis GT's Avatar
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    I forget the site, but it explains why an ammeter is more dangerous, and all you really need is a voltmeter...
    1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
    Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!


  19. #39
    It's all about ME! monterey1962's Avatar
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    Damnit, I have to buy another gauge? My ProSource gauge says amps on the front, so I suppose that's crap.

    Still, where do you hook in under the hood for the volt meter? I might as well just run all the wiring right away.
    Three's company. Six is a fleet.

    1978 F-150 Custom
    1989 Crown Victoria LX
    1995 F-150 XLT
    1998 Crown Victoria LX
    2004 Crown Victoria LX Sport
    2011 Mustang GT

  20. #40
    GMN Founder Grand Marquis GT's Avatar
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    I don't even hook into any wire under the hood...

    I think I tapped into some hot wire under the dash..
    1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
    Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!


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