My Vicky

[His Royal Ghostliness]

He's got 4-channel, aka proper ABS. 3-channel is bandaid bullshit, and has no place in a vehicle specifically converted from no ABS at all, as long as proper 4-channel is available. The only reason I run 3-channel is cause that's what the rear axle allows me to run - the newer twin-VSS axles call for 17" wheels which calls for new tires which makes things stupid expensive. Machining could possibly allow for a VSS per rear wheel, but then I got no HCU to reliably work with it cause all the 4-channel truck shit is all CANBUS anyways so very likely not to play nice with otherwise non-electronic-controls vehicle like mine.

With cars since a good semi-modern 4-channel system is available just run that, even if the traction control feature ends up fairly useless. It ain't its LSD-like behavior what you're after, it's getting the most out of your brakes. Besides ain't traction-controlled cars easier to locate in salvage yards for parts harvesting anyways?

The COPs from that link, not sure that will work. You need a VERY sharp bend in the plug wire to clear the headers, these don't seem like they'll allow that. Of course it ain't like you can't make your own adapters or something, shouldn't be much different from the custom traditional plug wires when you cut things down to proper length with the goal of making everything extra nice and neat looking.

[His Royal Ghostliness]

Fuck that teves bullshit. Maybe you should convert the Mark to a P71 unit. Self contained wiring.

There's a good idea if I ever heard one! No, seriously, the Teves bullshit can burn in hell, newer stuff is much nicer. And you can hydroboost the bitch while ABS-ing it too, best of both worlds IMHO, especially if on top of that you also big-brake her with the Rustang parts.

Since you mentioned wiring, why didn't you use a CV or GMQ engine harness, if the Lincoln one is such a pain? As for the traction control, what extra wiring does it actually need, other than the T/C off button obviously?

[86VickyLX]

The TownCar harness utilizes the fan relay control box that I have on the car now. So no need to extend wiring for that. Drawback is, the TownCars fuse box is on the drivers side. But that's fine as I'll just feed power from the existing ecu harness to this one. The reason I used TownCar harness wad because it was already easily accessible. I didn't realize the harnesses were different until after I had already disassembled it.

I'll look into what's required for the traction control. I believe it's the switch a relay and more wiring. And it communicates with the pcm so I don't know if I want it telling the pcm to reduce my torque lol.

[86VickyLX]

Scratch that. No relay. Only switch. Looks like if I ground the gray wire traction control will be disabled? Also pin 9 is ground output for traction control light. If I did wire up the switch, where the he'll would i put it? Or an indicator for that matter?

[gadget73]

No modern ABS crap in my Mark VII thank you. If it finally gets to the point where it becomes impractical to fix, it will lose the ABS entirely. Its the only vehicle I own with ABS anyway, right now its not working and it still stops fine. I'm a great disbeliever in the value of antilock anyway. It might save lives, but I truly question if that is a good thing. Of course I've more than once suggested that all cars should be as likely to kill you as they were in the 60s to promote better driving and a population reduction all at the same time.

Why would you need another indicator? Just use a lighted switch.

[86VickyLX]

No modern ABS crap in my Mark VII thank you. If it finally gets to the point where it becomes impractical to fix, it will lose the ABS entirely. Its the only vehicle I own with ABS anyway, right now its not working and it still stops fine. I'm a great disbeliever in the value of antilock anyway. It might save lives, but I truly question if that is a good thing. Of course I've more than once suggested that all cars should be as likely to kill you as they were in the 60s to promote better driving and a population reduction all at the same time.

Why would you need another indicator? Just use a lighted switch.

That is the best thing I've heard today haha. I think I may just do a lighted switch. It would probably be best to be an incandescent bulb.

[sxcpotatoes]

Back when my dad sold new Lincoln/Mercury, he told me about going to a demonstration by Ford for the new Traction Control/ABS/Trac-lok. They had a manufactured ice course, and demonstrated how the Traction Control, combined with the Trac-lok to allow the Crown Vic/GM to easily make it up an incline much better than just a Trac-lok alone, which I think they built the hill so it would fail.

[86VickyLX]

Back when my dad sold new Lincoln/Mercury, he told me about going to a demonstration by Ford for the new Traction Control/ABS/Trac-lok. They had a manufactured ice course, and demonstrated how the Traction Control, combined with the Trac-lok to allow the Crown Vic/GM to easily make it up an incline much better than just a Trac-lok alone, which I think they built the hill so it would fail.

Alright. I guess it wouldn't be so bad then. I will be using an abs system from an 01 with traction control. I'm hoping that it'll all play nice together. As the communication lines will be needed in order to properly bleed the system.

[DerekTheGreat]

Back when my dad sold new Lincoln/Mercury, he told me about going to a demonstration by Ford for the new Traction Control/ABS/Trac-lok. They had a manufactured ice course, and demonstrated how the Traction Control, combined with the Trac-lok to allow the Crown Vic/GM to easily make it up an incline much better than just a Trac-lok alone, which I think they built the hill so it would fail.

I can believe this stuff.

I see the videos demonstrating a locker vs open vs limited slip on an incline with rollers where they test both 2wd & 4wd vehicles. The take away is even with 4x4 you need or would want a locker. Now, after actually owning a 4x4 vehicle I won't doubt the advantages of a locker but they aren't necessary. Our 4wd K1500 gets around just fine in the snow with it's open diff. Only when pushed hard can I tell that posi or a locker would be a nice to have feature. But, to break one wheel loose it must need to break a wheel at the other end loose too, so if not pushed hard, 4 wheels are moving the truck. Same goes for stopping. If it wants to lock a front wheel, it must also lock a rear wheel. Happens with that thing far, far less than with our 2wd cars.

[86VickyLX]

Long overdue update, as always. Except this time, with pictures!

As you all of you who have been following the thread up to this point, I was planning to change the ABS system to that of a later model crown victoria/grand marquis.

I had isolated the wiring during one of my slow days at work, and with a little motivation from my friend, and a bit of fabrication, we have a 2002 abs system in my 86. This will allow 2 things. The return of my air conditioner, and an updated system that will utilize the OBD-II interface when I do get around to converting the fuel injection system to OBD-II. After a few snags with the brake booster (92-94 abs booster will not work with 98-02 master, and the 01/02 booster's pushrod is completely different due to the introduction of adjustable brake and gas pedals). I now have a partially functioning system. Now I say partially functioning, because the traction control portion of the system is inoperative, even though everything for it is wired up. I can only imagine it is because there is no pcm communication with the ABS unit, reducing the traction control system to extra wiring and a switch at this point in time. Also note, that I installed the Explorer power steering fluid reservoir. It fits fine. I needed to make new lines from the ABS unit to the wheels at least partially. I was going to attach them to the junction block that was already there for the rear, but the lines didn't want to come loose from there. So instead I flared the existing lines and connected them via union to the NiCopp lines. The only fully new line ran was to the drivers side front wheel, which eliminated one of the standard to metric adapters.

[86VickyLX]

Shortly after installing the ABS and the A/C compressor, I contacted a shop that specializes in custom A/C hoses. After I gathered a few specialty parts, like the AN threaded manifold block for an FS-10 compressor, the owner was able to make me up discharge and suction lines. It turned out pretty good. And the A/C is pretty damn cold. I think it could be colder, but I'm playing around with refrigerant capacities as the system that originally took 3.25lbs of R12 now takes 1lb-10oz of R134a.

Figuring out the length of the discharge line.

The FS10 manifold block with #8 and #10 AN fittings for the EZ clip A/C hoses

Lines connected to the compressor, drier and condenser

Lines secured with brackets and zip ties

[87gtVIC]

I hope no one but you ever has to work on that thing. You got parts and things going on from all sorts of vehicles. I love it!

[sly]

Kinda of the same story on my 93 about anyone else working on it. Most people look under the hood and see all the exposed wiring near the fusebox and say "nope".

[gadget73]

Mine isn't much better. I have a parts interchange list for it out of necessity.

[BigMerc96]

Interesting that the traction control doesn't work without the PCM communication. I've been trying to come up with a way to make my '98s traction control work without pulling the engine power back, make it work like my Town Car's did (before the module went poof) where it just pulses the brakes on the slipping wheel. That was remarkably effective once I got used to it, but because the '98 pulls back the power it makes pulling out into traffic on a slippery surface a bit fun when I'm not expecting it, "Oh, you wanted to accelerate? I'm just gonna take away all of your power because the RR tire slipped a tiny bit".