Well the title says it. if you look at the pics you can see heavy oxidation as well as heave water spots. As i have stated before i bought this car from an elderly person how hasn't driven it in 3 years. So if you smart enough you can tell he never washed it. maintain it. ect... please experiance people how have polish leave me some tips. (in other words .. gearhead.. dont post just to post. since you havent owned a car. i doubt you polished your mothers van. but hey if ya wanna post use this :pw: or in the odd case you have polish leave me tips. no hard feeling right? ) thank to anyone how leave me tips.
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Anyone with tips on polishing?
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Anyone with tips on polishing?
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yeah, looks like the clear is bubbling to me as well.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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That looks pretty bad. I don't think it'll ever shine like new again, too far gone. You can try washing, waxing, and clay barring, but I don't think it'll do as much good as you hope.88 Town Car (wrecked, for sale)
Walker OEM duals with muffler deletes
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Originally posted by mrltd View Posthard to tell in the pic, but you might be SOL. Looks more like the clear is gone than waterspots.Last edited by 87vicFIVEO; 07-29-2007, 08:14 PM.1987 LTD CROWN VICTORIA, 5.0 EFI, MAGNAFLOW DUAL EXH, RED LANDAU
FRESH AOD, 3.27 OPEN DIFF, 57K MILES, B&M SHIFT KIT AND R134A A/C
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since ive owned the car i wash it every week. ive clay bar it as well but that really didnt do anything. and i waxed the car to. sorry about the pics it was raining and dark so ill get better ones later. all i really want to do was make it look better. not all messed up like it is. but i guess theres no point in polishing then ? and besides this post was about tips on polishing not killing my hopes of restoring the car to "new car" look. man you guys suck
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Originally posted by 87vicFIVEO View PostI was under the impression that most 80's cars had acrylic enamel paint with no clear coat. I was told this when I had my drivers door repainted. Is this not true?2000 Mustang GT "Blondie", 2000 CVPI "Sargent Crusty"
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it's the metallics that were clearcoat.....the clear is peeling off of mine and gadgets townys
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
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It does look pretty far gone, but I think it can be improved. Not perfect, of course, but better than it is now.
First, wash it then clay the car.
Do you have an oribital buffer?
If so, I would grab a light cutting foam pad, and some medium cut polish, like Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #83 and go at it for a little bit. Follow with finer cut polish, then wax - or, just go right to a cleaner wax if you think it looks fine from there. I recommend the cleaner wax in this case to help remove more oxidation and swirling from the med cut polish.
Don't have a buffer?
Use Meguiar's ScratchX by hand with a microfiber or a good terry applicator (not foam, it will fall apart) on the whole car. Yes, the whole thing, just make sure to work it in fully to break down the abrasives. You'd be amazed what it can do. Follow with this a normal cleaner/wax to further remove contamination and swirls from the scratch remover.
With either method, apply more pressure/force and make more passes on the bad spots.
Again, it won't come out perfect, but I can guarantee it will look better.-My Homepage, Panther info & FAQs-
My Mint 96' Mercury Grand Marquis LSE -
Modifications
Click My Merc for more Pics!
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The problem with most 1980's and early 1990's clearcoat is due to a change in the type of clearcoat. Environmental concerns pushed for a water-based clearcoat, to replace the solvent/oil base. The water-based garbage was used from the mid 1980's until the mid 1990's, by all of the domestic auto makers. GM had a massive recall for a while, they would repaint your car for free, provided they would even tell anyone about it.
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k more better pics. the hood and the top i waxed and it turned out bad. the wax actully made the waters spots look more horrible then they were before. for example the hood. you see many water spots and a few white spots. that wasnt there before just after i waxed. i tried to get it off but to no avail. i didnt do the trunk since i was afraind it would have a negative affect.
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could be messed up clear, could be water spots. If its the latter, I had this prob this spring. I had a 2 foot diameter spot in the middle of the roof. Tried buffing it and shit... to no avail. Only time got rid of it for me.
Also, If its peeling clear, short of repainting it, not much can be done to bring it back really well. I stripped all of the pealing clear (and the subsequent lower layers of paint) on mine. Not fun, but probably necessary.**2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
**2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
**2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
**1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties
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