Time for a new Carb(advice needed)

[Mr. Land Yacht]

both my buddy Mark and my uncle have both told me that I need a new carb.
my uncle wants me to go with a Mechanical secondary carb...but the only ones I can find are like $500+:no:
so, I need some advice/links from you Carb mangs...
so far, here's what I know that I should have for a Carb:
600-650cfm
Single Inlet
Vacuum Secondaries
Electric Choke

should I get one with an adjustable float?
here's the ones I had in mind...feel free to post links...
*non-adjustable float*
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
*adjustable float*
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

I'm guessing that I would want an adjustable float, but I really dont know.

[Lincolnmania]

buy an edelbrock......easier to tune

[1987cp]

likewise, even though I know your pal knows Holleys ........ for your motor I might consider the EDL-1806 - it's the more expensive Thunder Series that has a few upgrades from the regular Performer Series like I've got, including easily adjustable secondary doors. Summit now has links to the manuals so you can check it out ahead of time.

Any particular reason your unc is recommending full-mechanical secondaries?

[Lincolnmania]

may i suggest efi!

[1987cp]

:lol:

[Mr. Land Yacht]

well, he told me he has noticed a night/day difference between Vac and mechanical...in a mechanical, you step on that gas and it FLYS...Vac., you dont get that.
but I cant find a Mechanical secondaries under $400.

btw, that Carb dont have Ford kickdown Mike...woudl my Lokar kickdown kit take care of that?

[Nathan in MI]

likewise, even though I know your pal knows Holleys ........ for your motor I might consider the EDL-1806 - it's the more expensive Thunder Series that has a few upgrades from the regular Performer Series like I've got, including easily adjustable secondary doors. Summit now has links to the manuals so you can check it out ahead of time.

Any particular reason your unc is recommending full-mechanical secondaries?

I wouldn't go with an AVS carb...stick with teh Performer (Performer=AFB, right? I can't keep all these new fangled Edelbrock names straight--I'm too accustomed to Carters!). No problems with secondary transition area missing on the Performers. AVSs always liked to miss when you just barely had the secondaries open; at least teh old Carters did. Not sure if the newer ones are that way as well, but I'd be willing to bet they are.

[1987cp]

well, he told me he has noticed a night/day difference between Vac and mechanical...in a mechanical, you step on that gas and it FLYS...Vac., you dont get that.
but I cant find a Mechanical secondaries under $400.

btw, that Carb dont have Ford kickdown Mike...woudl my Lokar kickdown kit take care of that?

yup, you should be already equipped to handle the situation.

BTW, Nate, interesting info. I've not read a lot of info about the new Thunder Series AVS, except that it's like the Performer series but with enhancements. My *assumption* is that they perform similarly, though they do look a little different in pictures.

You know, Colin, I forgot .... what was wrong with the carb you have now?

[Mr. Land Yacht]

I bought a Carb.
I will post pics when it comes in.

its not working right Mike...both my buddy mark and my uncle both said to get a new one.(not knowing the other person said this)

and when I couldnt brake torque well...that did it.

please Scott, dont mention which one I got...I'd kinda like it to be a surprise....

[Archangel]

well, he told me he has noticed a night/day difference between Vac and mechanical...in a mechanical, you step on that gas and it FLYS...Vac., you dont get that.
but I cant find a Mechanical secondaries under $400.

What's "FLYS"? Also why exactly do yer folks believe you need a new carb, vs. just rebuilding/tuning the current one?

As far as double-pumpers go - sure, go ahead and install one of these, might as well kiss yer current 10mpg goodbye, you'll be looking at maybe 5 if lucky. The reason I get away with a double-pumper 650 in a daily driver is that it's a spreadbore pattern and it's got dual power valves, which essentially allows me to delay the secondaries and run smaller jets without leaning out at WOT. My whole setup was intended for torque down low, and that ain't what you got. What you got however is a daily-driven car that is also heavier than my Chevy, real bad application for a double pumper. Check with Holley if you don't trust me - they're gonna tell you that they recommend the double pumper for vehicles up to 3500lb, and you're right about 400lb over that, empty too.

Ideally what if I'd do in yer situation would be lose whatever the hell intake you got now, then get the same intake but in a spreadbore design, then get a '70s Q-jet from a General Moron who's sick of failing at making it work right, then send it over to SMI along with all the shitload of data they will request - engine displacement, compression, heads flow, intake, cam lift, lobe separation, vehicle weight, rear end, vehicle use, and so on - for right about $3-400 what you will get is an awesomely tuned carburetor that will just sip gas untill you wanna get going, then the car will GO.

[torquelover]

...I'd kinda like it to be a surprise....

Did you get the first SB Ford version of this:



Again, what was wrong with your carb? seems strange to dump it before tuning/rebuilding it.

[Archangel]

its not working right Mike...both my buddy mark and my uncle both said to get a new one.(not knowing the other person said this)

I still wanna know their reasoning for that - a Holley rebuild kit comes with new needles and seats, power valves, accel pump diaphragms, springs, and all gaskets you will need and then some. Hell they even include some of those clips that you take off the linkages, in case you lose some. Really unless the carb has some major issue (such as worn throttle shaft seats) or there have been some major irreversible modifications performed (such as drilled PCVRs) everything can be made to work decent, and with the cool add-ons I mentioned in Chachi's thread you won't even have to open the fuel bowls for the simple tweaking.

please Scott, dont mention which one I got...I'd kinda like it to be a surprise....

I really hope that means you got a SMI Q-jet, but somehow I reallt really doubt it :p

[gadget73]

I would not run a mechanical secondary carb, especially on a small displacement motor. They always dump the secondary open at a specific throttle position, regardless of load. Vacuum secondaries will trip only when the motor needs/is able to handle it. If you don't get the mechanical secondaries set up just right, its very easy to have a bog when then first open. Vacuum will tend to open a little slower which removes that concern. They also seem to be a little more streetable most of the time.

I also personally have a preference for spread bore carbs, which is extremely rare in the performance segment. I'd be the guy running hopped up Thermoquads just to get those big secondaries with the adjustable air door.


I'm also with Ivan on this, I'm curios why the need for a new carb. Generally unless the baseplate itself is worn causing the throttle shafts to flop around, or its so gunked up inside that it cant be cleaned, you can usually rebuild one and they run fine.

[Archangel]

Did you get the first SB Ford version of this:



Again, what was wrong with your carb? seems strange to dump it before tuning/rebuilding it.

Nah, I think he's going with my buddy Kinsler's FI system... he just forgot to add a zero when he was talking about the price And I'm also stumped about them ditching the carb like that.

[1987cp]

I also personally have a preference for spread bore carbs, which is extremely rare in the performance segment. I'd be the guy running hopped up Thermoquads just to get those big secondaries with the adjustable air door.

How small can those things be had, though? The Rochester carbs available on the aftermarket I've seen (Quadrajets) have usually been 750cfm.