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Thread: My Ma's 1986 Crown Victoria LX

  1. #261
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    Okay. I found the lopo upper plenum in the corner of the basement. I still have that main vacuum tubing with the branches sticking out of it for other vacuum connections. I will see if I have to use that; or run a new line to it. Thanks guys

  2. #262
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    I started the exhaust installation over the weekend. I put up all of the piping up to the X-pipe. I have to adjust the X-pipe connection a bit; mark everything; then have it welded. I might stick a flange in there so the exhaust can be taken apart with relative ease.

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  3. #263
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    Degreased the steering box and the portion of the frame behind it yesterday. The lopo managed to oil that down as well. Cleaned up pretty good and I was able to apply MetalPrep last night before covering the car up. Hopefully there will be some dry days this week when I can paint it.

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  4. #264
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    I got heater hose for the CV hooked up over the weekend. Came across an issue with the small piece that goes from the water pump to the thermostat. I couldn't bend it 90* without kinking it. I need to find a short (2" - 3") low-tension 5/8" OD spring to insert so I can bend it without kinking it.

    Also discovered that my exhaust won't fit the Dynomax 17749 Super Turbo mufflers that I wanted to use. I should have waited before ordering them (8 years ago), but I assumed that I could match the dual exhaust that I had on there. Oh well, I will try to make them work for my '05 MGM exhaust upgrade; it'll just force me to do duals rather than a large single exhaust that I envisioned for that car.

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  5. #265
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    And a pic of the painted steering gear and frame. There is a spot off camera that I have to sand down and repaint; but otherwise, way better than it was. Of course when I was working on the heater hose over the weekend, the freakin trees let loose their pollen pods all over everything, including the exposed engine compartment. I hope it cleans off when I get the rest of the engine together.

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    Last edited by packman; 05-20-2020 at 12:03 PM.

  6. #266
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Little by little. That’s how progress is made.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  7. #267
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Use a molded hose. Not gonna get a 90 degree in straight hose. Its just a 90 degree piece and its very available. Every Ford smallblock used that hose for 50+ years.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  8. #268
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    I will try that. I also might try a 5/8" x 90* barb fitting. I saw one at Autozone a while back.

  9. #269
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    Not happening with the barb fitting; short length of hose and too rigid to maneuver into the ports. I will have to get the molded piece.

    Also got the shorter mufflers last week; they are still too long to install the tailpipes. The outlet almost touches the rear axle tube. I will have to dump the exhaust at the axle and deal with a little extra rumble; well, not me, the driver will happily deal with that.

  10. #270
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    I bought a molded 5/8" 90* heater hose with 4" legs; which is more than plenty for that tight bend. Installed it on Friday afternoon before the storms hit.

    Sinuses sidelined me on Saturday; but on Sunday I installed the turndowns on the mufflers and put up the exhaust. I put it into position and marked the joints for welding. Also extended the ECT sensor plug to reach the new location. Next weekend, when I remove the exhaust, I will put up the driveshaft and remove the IAT sensor from the intake manifold and relocate it to the air intake tube. And if I don't run out of time, I will find a place on the firewall to drill another hole for more wiring.

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  11. #271
    Fastest Box In South Jersey 86VickyLX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by packman View Post
    I bought a molded 5/8" 90* heater hose with 4" legs; which is more than plenty for that tight bend. Installed it on Friday afternoon before the storms hit.

    Sinuses sidelined me on Saturday; but on Sunday I installed the turndowns on the mufflers and put up the exhaust. I put it into position and marked the joints for welding. Also extended the ECT sensor plug to reach the new location. Next weekend, when I remove the exhaust, I will put up the driveshaft and remove the IAT sensor from the intake manifold and relocate it to the air intake tube. And if I don't run out of time, I will find a place on the firewall to drill another hole for more wiring.

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    If you are running an a9p, there is no gain to relocating the sensor. And if you do, it's gonna run stupid as it's programmed to be operating in the intake. So you will need that modified in the tune as well.

  12. #272
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    That was at the suggestion of my tuner. He said he gets a more accurate reading from the inlet tube with the IAT sensor there.

  13. #273
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    It does, but unless you change the programming to expect it, all you'll do is feed the computer BS data. Its expecting hot air in the lower intake, not cold air at the filter. Later engines actually had an air temp sensor built into the MAF, stuff in between has it in the air cleaner lid. The ECM expects that though.

    long term fuel trim also doesn't start to learn unless the IAT sensor reads over some number that is hotter than its likely to ever see at the air filter unless you're spending a lot of time driving in the desert.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  14. #274
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    Finally installed the oil pressure sending unit. Couldn't install it straight up, so I got 1/4" npt x 1.5" extension, 1/4" npt coupling, and a 1/4" street elbow. Hopefully this arrangement won't interfere with the accessory brackets. Drilled another hole in the firewall for more wiring, so I can run the rest of the gauges and whatever else through it. Pic.........

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  15. #275
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    A weekend of fail with this car. I was running the oil pressure sender wire and snagged an old vacuum line in the process. That snapped in two places. It's the line that runs from the vacuum tree to the reservoir (what used to be the soup can). Took the reservoir out and the grommet holding the check valve in disintegrated. I guess after 6 years of service, that happens? Couldn't find a grommet that fits the reservoir locally, so I will have to search online.

    After counting to 1000, I decided to try something else; so I attempted to install the AOD dipstick. After getting covered in fiberglass dust, I discovered that it hits the valve cover. So I took it off and went in to the basement to bend it, but my tubing spring/bender are all in OD; and the dipstick is OD too. So no go with that. I will have to search for a 5/8" ID tubing bender.

    Since I was down in the basement, I replaced the replacement universal with a Spicer piece. The universal that I had in there was from NAPA, and no matter how thin of a snap-ring I used, I couldn't get it to fit. Then as I was removing it, one of the caps fell off and rolled into a small dust/dirt pile in the corner. At that point, I put the press down and took the hammer out. Is that the proper way of removing universals; no, but I didn't care at that point; I just wanted to dispose of that universal with the cruelest manner.

    Perhaps next weekend will be better.

  16. #276
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    Oh, failed to mention that I went to install my gauges and the light bulbs didn't want to go into the slots in the back of the gauges. I had to file down and cut a portion of the flanges for the light bulb sockets to get them to install correctly. Otherwise, they wouldn't twist in the slots. Forgot about that annoyance.

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  17. #277
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    Sent the pipes out to be welded last week; got them back on Saturday afternoon. Took some time re-installing them as the pipe shrunk a bit and I think the welder straightened the pipes out; which put the mid-pipes into the floorboard and put the mufflers a little lower than I had them. I will go back under there next weekend and loosen up the flanges; hopefully I will be able to tilt the mufflers up a bit.

    Still looking for the shift loinkage bracket bolts; I have no clue where I put them. Also failed to realize how bug the a/f gauge plug is. I should have done this when the engine was still out of the car, as there is no way to get behind the engine and push the small end of the plug through the firewall.

  18. #278
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    Installed the Console Vault in the Subaru today. Took a whole 10 minutes. Fits perfectly and no way is anyone getting it out unless they destroy the whole console. Too much work for the average dirt bag bad guy.
    Considering selling the 89 TC signature. It runs good. Looks decent. I am pretty fussy so I am looking to spend some money on a repaint and a couple of other things. If I sell it here reasonably priced, someone will sell the parts on ebay and demo derby it. Can't have that. Considering options

  19. #279
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    Wired in the a/f ratio gauge and the the shift indicator gauge thingy (I broke the mechanical shift indicator during the heater core fiasco). Discovered that my electric cutouts won't fit because of the warping of the welded exhaust. I will see if I can move the pipe; or if all else fails, use the hammer to massage the floor boards a bit.

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