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Thread: My Ma's 1986 Crown Victoria LX

  1. #381
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    IIRC, no. The 351 is a little longer. The 302 one will be too short to engage properly. There's no parts overlap in the aftermarket parts lists on RockAuto either.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  2. #382
    Member of the Orb Alliance packman's Avatar
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    Kinda figured that; already got the Comp Cams oil pump driver anyways. Just need a day when we have no major storms to contend with.

  3. #383
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    I got a little time yesterday with the Crown Vic. I discovered that the repaired fusible link wasn't passing power. That one had the fusible link right behind the ring terminal fitting. I was able to work with the nub of wire going to it; but I may have broken the fuse when I crimped the terminal on. I got delayed by dinner, so I couldn't test the new fusible link. I have a meeting shortly, but right afterwards I am going out to test the other fusible links. Out of curiosity, what is the amperage of those fusible links, if anybody knows off hand. My EVTM ID's them, but gives no specs. Oh.......I have to ID that plug by my forefinger. It looks to be in rough shape. Ring terminal is very crusty. Of course I will be testing it, but if I have to repair it, I may replace it with one of the deutsch connectors that I got. I have to learn how to assemble them anyways.

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  4. #384
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    Fusible links are usually identified by color. Here's a post with a chart: https://ratsun.net/topic/77764-shopp...fusible-links/
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

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  5. #385
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    Thank you Tiggie I will take a look at the color of the wires next time I mess with the CV.

    I was testing wires and everything seems to have power. As I moved up towards the cabin, the test light started getting dimmer and dimmer. I put the charger on the battery and it was almost completely dead. My Dad said that it could be a crap battery; or I have a short circuit in the system. Hope it's the battery; as I have no experience finding shorted circuits. One would swear this car doesn't want to see the road again.

  6. #386
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    I got a tiny bit of time with the CV yesterday evening whilst checking everything in the backyard. I forgot that I had the charger on the battery all weekend. I connected the battery cables and checked to see what other systems are working. The HVAC system works; the headlights and emergency flashers work (not the parking lights as I need to change the switch and plug out); and the horn works. So basically everything has power with the key on but the relays and starter solenoid. So I am going to switch out the ignition switch for starters (pun intended) and move down from there.

  7. #387
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    I discovered a problem earlier this afternoon; which hopefully is THE problem. I got a Standard Products ignition lock cylinder and an ignition module from RockAuto figuring I would start with replacing those items. I pulled the lock cylinder out of the steering column and the electrical connector fell off of it in pieces. I'm hoping that is the problem; even though, the car was starting up just fine before I parked it. My problem now is when I went to install the replacement, it goes in partially and binds up before it goes in all the way. This is with the keyed part of the cylinder lock matched up with the keyed part of the steering column. I put the electrical connector back on the original cylinder and compared that to the Standard Products cylinder and noticed slight differences. I gave them to my Dad and with his machinist eyes, saw many small differences. So I am going to order another ignition lock cylinder from Autozone (they're still open) and hope that it might be a manufacturing defect. I will also look in LMR and see if the fox bodies use the same lock cylinder. The Crown Vic is fighting; but I will win........

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  8. #388
    Fastest Box In South Jersey 86VickyLX's Avatar
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    That wire on the lock cylinder is only for the chime to warn you that you left the key in the ignition with the door open. It serves no other purpose.

  9. #389
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    The ignition switch that the lock cylinder moves is the actual electrical connection for all the stuff in the car.

    This thing:
    https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=4700&jsn=933

    They are known for literally falling apart.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  10. #390
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    I got a new ignition module with the ignition lock cylinder. I have terminals and wire to fix the connector if the issue lies there. I noticed when I was packing up that the ignition module that is in there has 2 new-looking bolts fastening it in there. I wonder if it was replaced before we got the car. I know I didn't do that.

  11. #391
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    I replaced the ignition control module and inspected the connector harness; at least as far as I could until it went into the firewall. I didn't see anything obvious like severed or chewed wires. The ignition module is a replacement as its spade terminals look new; and the 2 bolts that fasten it to the steering column are Home Depot bolts.

    I also looked at all of the wiring in the steering column and although kinda dirty; nothing is severed. I will wait until my replacement ignition cylinder comes in and install it. Then see if anything changed. Other than that, I have no clue what to do other than pulling the engine and checking the wiring coming out of the firewall.

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  12. #392
    Fastest Box In South Jersey 86VickyLX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by packman View Post
    Will a 5.0 distributor fit in a 351W? I still have the lopo dizzy.
    No, shaft is different size for oil pump driveshaft. You must use a 351w distributor shaft. Keep in mind which cam gear you need, depending on the type of cam you're running. If it's roller cam you will need the steel gear. The flat tappet cam will require the cast gear. The gears are the same between the 2 distributors. And honestly, the main body is the same. Only difference is the actual shaft of the distributor.

  13. #393
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    Oh, that would explain why in the JY when I test fit a dizzy from one into the other it wouldn't go all the way in. Although the next time I tried it it worked, but perhaps I grabbed a small shaft dizzy and jabbed it into an engine that uses a large shaft. I simply concluded that I was an idiot the first time and it should have fit. Now, if I ever make it back out to the JYs this year, I'll have to pull one of each to compare.
    Vic

    ~ 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, backup/summer cruiser
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon SLT - wannabe winter DD - many issues, returning sometime in the 2020s
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - Rotting Retired Winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic

  14. #394
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    Okay; I got the terminology wrong. That is the ignition switch that I replaced; not the ignition module, which is on the distributor. So I was playing with the switch last night and realized that on the back of it, there is a sliding terminal. It is fairly stiff, but it moves back and forth. I failed to take notice when I installed the replacement switch; but what moves that sliding terminal? Is there some sort of actuator that does it when the key is turned? I don't think that is the problem, but I am now curious about how it operates.

  15. #395
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    There's a sliding rod that goes from the lock cylinder to the switch that moves it back and forth. The spring in the switch is what kicks the key back when you start the car.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  16. #396
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    That actuator broke on my 82 and locked up the steering column. The switch is how I moved around in my 87 with no keys.
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

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  17. #397
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiggie View Post
    That actuator broke on my 82 and locked up the steering column. The switch is how I moved around in my 87 with no keys.

    Same here in my 87...broke all apart and jammed up the works.Was a chore sourcing a new actuator from ford. Its not just a simple rod. Looks like this....

    https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...xoCXooQAvD_BwE
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
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    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  18. #398
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    I replaced the lock cylinder with no change in the problem at hand. However, the door chime is annoyingly loud. Makes me think when it stopped working; as it was working when some members of crownvic.net and panterra77 had a small meet at E-Town some years ago.

    As such, I went back through the wiring harness for the starter solenoid and traced out the wires going to the coil and dizzy. I double checked the wiring against a couple YouTube vids and it appears that I incorrectly wired the dizzy and coil. I mixed 2 of those wires. I corrected the dizzy wires, but when I pulled the coil connector out; it crumbled internally; and the terminals were stuck on the coil pins. Went to pull out the terminals and one snapped. It was getting dark, so I called it quits and will deal with that tomorrow if the weather holds. I don't know what effect an incorrectly wired dizzy and coil would have on the ecm and the rest of the system; could this have been the problem? I guess I will find out tomorrow or Monday.
    Last edited by packman; 09-04-2021 at 09:35 PM.

  19. #399
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    I think my problem was that the instructions for the 6AL didn't include a diagram for hooking up to the factory wiring; only instructions for using the MSD wiring harness. I have the coil figured out; but I don't know about the dizzy. I have the red wire coming from the 6AL spliced into the red wire for the tfi module. But there is also a red wire with a green stripe; was I supposed to splice the red wire from the 6AL to red/green wire? Other than that, I think I have it figured out.

  20. #400
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    Not the problem. Made the changes, still no power to the relays. I am assuming that the Holley pump will make as much if not more noise than the stock pump. I definitely don't see fuel pressure at the gauge. I'm also assuming that I should be hearing a click or two from the relays. Next weekend I will prime the engine and try bumping it over to see if at least the starter can be engaged at the key. Giving some thought to crawling under the CV, putting it in neutral, and having it towed somewhere so I can start working on the garage. Maybe see if I can find somebody willing to solve an electrical problem. I probably should pull the engine at this point and do a thorough investigation; but I am simply running out of time and patience with this car.

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