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My Ma's 1986 Crown Victoria LX

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    Originally posted by packman View Post
    I bought a molded 5/8" 90* heater hose with 4" legs; which is more than plenty for that tight bend. Installed it on Friday afternoon before the storms hit.

    Sinuses sidelined me on Saturday; but on Sunday I installed the turndowns on the mufflers and put up the exhaust. I put it into position and marked the joints for welding. Also extended the ECT sensor plug to reach the new location. Next weekend, when I remove the exhaust, I will put up the driveshaft and remove the IAT sensor from the intake manifold and relocate it to the air intake tube. And if I don't run out of time, I will find a place on the firewall to drill another hole for more wiring.

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]54307[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]54308[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]54309[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]54310[/ATTACH]
    If you are running an a9p, there is no gain to relocating the sensor. And if you do, it's gonna run stupid as it's programmed to be operating in the intake. So you will need that modified in the tune as well.

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      That was at the suggestion of my tuner. He said he gets a more accurate reading from the inlet tube with the IAT sensor there.

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        It does, but unless you change the programming to expect it, all you'll do is feed the computer BS data. Its expecting hot air in the lower intake, not cold air at the filter. Later engines actually had an air temp sensor built into the MAF, stuff in between has it in the air cleaner lid. The ECM expects that though.

        long term fuel trim also doesn't start to learn unless the IAT sensor reads over some number that is hotter than its likely to ever see at the air filter unless you're spending a lot of time driving in the desert.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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          Finally installed the oil pressure sending unit. Couldn't install it straight up, so I got 1/4" npt x 1.5" extension, 1/4" npt coupling, and a 1/4" street elbow. Hopefully this arrangement won't interfere with the accessory brackets. Drilled another hole in the firewall for more wiring, so I can run the rest of the gauges and whatever else through it. Pic.........

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            A weekend of fail with this car. I was running the oil pressure sender wire and snagged an old vacuum line in the process. That snapped in two places. It's the line that runs from the vacuum tree to the reservoir (what used to be the soup can). Took the reservoir out and the grommet holding the check valve in disintegrated. I guess after 6 years of service, that happens? Couldn't find a grommet that fits the reservoir locally, so I will have to search online.

            After counting to 1000, I decided to try something else; so I attempted to install the AOD dipstick. After getting covered in fiberglass dust, I discovered that it hits the valve cover. So I took it off and went in to the basement to bend it, but my tubing spring/bender are all in OD; and the dipstick is OD too. So no go with that. I will have to search for a 5/8" ID tubing bender.

            Since I was down in the basement, I replaced the replacement universal with a Spicer piece. The universal that I had in there was from NAPA, and no matter how thin of a snap-ring I used, I couldn't get it to fit. Then as I was removing it, one of the caps fell off and rolled into a small dust/dirt pile in the corner. At that point, I put the press down and took the hammer out. Is that the proper way of removing universals; no, but I didn't care at that point; I just wanted to dispose of that universal with the cruelest manner.

            Perhaps next weekend will be better.

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              Oh, failed to mention that I went to install my gauges and the light bulbs didn't want to go into the slots in the back of the gauges. I had to file down and cut a portion of the flanges for the light bulb sockets to get them to install correctly. Otherwise, they wouldn't twist in the slots. Forgot about that annoyance.

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                Sent the pipes out to be welded last week; got them back on Saturday afternoon. Took some time re-installing them as the pipe shrunk a bit and I think the welder straightened the pipes out; which put the mid-pipes into the floorboard and put the mufflers a little lower than I had them. I will go back under there next weekend and loosen up the flanges; hopefully I will be able to tilt the mufflers up a bit.

                Still looking for the shift loinkage bracket bolts; I have no clue where I put them. Also failed to realize how bug the a/f gauge plug is. I should have done this when the engine was still out of the car, as there is no way to get behind the engine and push the small end of the plug through the firewall.

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                  Installed the Console Vault in the Subaru today. Took a whole 10 minutes. Fits perfectly and no way is anyone getting it out unless they destroy the whole console. Too much work for the average dirt bag bad guy.
                  Considering selling the 89 TC signature. It runs good. Looks decent. I am pretty fussy so I am looking to spend some money on a repaint and a couple of other things. If I sell it here reasonably priced, someone will sell the parts on ebay and demo derby it. Can't have that. Considering options

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                    Wired in the a/f ratio gauge and the the shift indicator gauge thingy (I broke the mechanical shift indicator during the heater core fiasco). Discovered that my electric cutouts won't fit because of the warping of the welded exhaust. I will see if I can move the pipe; or if all else fails, use the hammer to massage the floor boards a bit.

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                      I bought a glue stick over the weekend for the purposes of using its packaging as a dust cover for the Moates Quarterhorse. I took the plastic cover and glued it to the hole of the casing. Hopefully this is sufficient for keeping the dust out. I may get some packing tape and tape over the portion where the USB cable comes out.

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                        I discovered a month ago that one of my NGK spark plugs was stuck in the plug hole (#4). I had to use a ratchet to get it out, as it would bind coming out. I cleaned it up and sprayed a little WD-40 on the threads and tried to put it back in; but it would bind nonetheless. So I switched it with the plug in hole #1. That plug threaded into the #4 hole a lot smoother, but would bind near the end of its travel. I worked it back and forth and now it threads in by hand. So the old plug that I yanked from hole #4 would only go in a couple threads and then bind up in hole #1. So I went to NAPA yesterday to get another NGK 7373 plug. They had 2 in stock, so I bought them and brought them home. I noticed that the box was different from the boxes that the existing plugs came in. I took the binding plug out of hole #1 and realized that it is a different material than the plug that I just bought from NAPA (old plug on the left; NAPA plug on the right in the pic below). The NAPA plug threaded into hole #1 with no problem. I'm guessing that the NAPA plugs are an older lot/batch; or they're made from different material. I bought the old plugs years ago when I got the heads. I am going to run these plugs until the engine is tuned; then I will pull them and replace them with the equivalent E3 plugs. I'm not going to deal with plugs that may get stuck in the heads.

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                          I had to use my monster 1/2 inch drive "monster" wrench to remove sparkplugs that were stuck AAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHH HH.

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                            Wired in my electric fan relay and gauges; except for the digital parking gauge yesterday. I was waiting for my aunt to come over to mess with her Vue, but she was massively late; so I decided to work on the CV. It was very humid and hot yesterday; which is why I missed the last gauge. I will splice into the 12v ignition wire that I used for the gauges and the ground as well to do the last gauge; maybe sometime this week. I used to handle this weather a lot better when I was younger :-/

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                              This project will be put on hold for the time being. The twin of the oak tree that fell on my Dad's welding rig a decade ago; fell yesterday in the same spot. Took out the garage; bent the trunk of the CV; and almost knocked another tree over. Huge mess to clean up.

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                                Ouch. Trunk kids are hard to find rust free.
                                1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
                                1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

                                GMN Box Panther History
                                Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
                                Box Panther Production Numbers

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