What to try next-erratic engine skip

[87LongroofCP]

Almost forgot, the ECM is a VL2

[Glen]

Can't he just put the fan in front of the rad. and use it as a pusher?

[gadget73]

flip them over, the casting number you want is on the bottom of the intake runner.

orange top injectors are 19# units, if its an HO it had them.

Also, hope you got the upper intake plate, thats worth 13.7 horsepower as long as its the one that can be flipped backwards and not be upside-down.

VL2 should work, but you're gonna lose cruise with it. It is the correct HO firing order though.

[gadget73]

Can't he just put the fan in front of the rad. and use it as a pusher?

its a mechanical fan, not an electric.

[87LongroofCP]

Looks like I have the E6SE heads, I guess that's not good news.

[Glen]

its a mechanical fan, not an electric.

My bad!

[1987cp]

Thanks Gadget73, It has the HO plenum plate, it is an LSC. The pistons looked flat which surprised me. The heads look like they have 6k8 castings, if I read it right. Are these worth having work done? There's a dealer on eBay selling the E7 heads, item # 280192854945 are these worth it? If not, can anybody recommend a dealer ? I know there are probably better ones out there, but I'm now on a tight budget. Is there any easy way to identify these as #19 injectors? Sorry about all the questions, With limited funds, I hate to buy the wrong parts. Thanks again for the advice

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...3286.m20.l1116

If it's that one, it's not a bad deal if they're really done correctly and ready to bolt on. E7 cores aren't worth much, but the machinist I used to go to charges $200 to freshen a set of heads, so ~$150 including cores is pretty good. Of course, F1, F3, or especially F7 castings (if you can get a decent deal on them) will put you money ahead performance-wise even if they're more expensive.

Your stock cast pistons will be fine for a basic HO conversion as long as nothing crazy like spray or super-aggressive tuning is planned. Stock HO pistons could be substituted if you do a rering at the stock bore size, but they're not necessary. Obviously, if you rebuild the shortblock and an overbore is required, that'd be the time to step up to a better piston. Hypereuctectic alloys are pretty cheap these days.

Looks like I have the E6SE heads, I guess that's not good news.

Nothing wrong with those on a stock motor! But yeah, the high-swirl chamber runs into valve shrouding issues if actual airflow is expected, and no, I wouldn't spend the money having them redone.

[87LongroofCP]

Update- I picked up a set of the E7 heads locally (3 miles) last night. A guy on ebay selling 5.0 parts had them. They have been ported, nicely done, He couldn't remember where he got them or what the story was on them, very, very clean, valves look new. He said they were too heavy to ship, so he was ready to throw them out. So he offered them to me for $20 !!! I offered him more but he wouldn't take it.

I picked up another car to drive while I tear into this, (91 Buick R/M) I know it's not a Ford, but for the price I couldn't say no.

But now I am noticing an occasion noise, wrist pin maybe? It's not loud, but it's there.
In the back of my garage I have an 85? 5.0 that came from a CP. It ran very good, either a rebuilt or a Ford replacement.

Any way I can run this non roller short block with my EFI? The nmbers casting is DSOE-6015-E3A 8L2. The pistons have the small notches for the valves. The heads are E5AE but would use the E7's. What cam, lifters, pushrods should I use with this setup? I know this is not the ideal way to do this, But a rebuilt short block is out of my reach at the moment. Many Thanks for the advice

[Tiggie]

You are sure you aren't hearing piston slap on your current engine? Lopo's with a few miles on them are bad about it until they warm up. Goes away once it's warmed up, though.

Block casting number is probably a D8OE, that's what's in my '82. Should be able to run it. You'll need to swap the steel distributor gear for an iron one to match the flat tappet cam, though.

[gadget73]

you can run it but you'd need a suitable cam. I dont know what is neccesary offhand, but if you look around you should be able to find something thats got specs that compare to the speed density friendly roller cam. Regarding the distributor, it'd be much easier to snatch one from an 84-85 cfi car since it'll have the right gear on it already./

[Lincolnmania]

some 85 blocks are roller compatible 88 grandmarq rebuilt the 302 from aod's 85 vic and converted it into a roller engine using 86+ roller cam and lifters and holdowns

[87LongroofCP]

Might be another week or so before I update again. I'll begin getting the motor out monday and tear into it. I'll let you know what I find, and what my next step will be. Thanks again for the advice!

[gadget73]

anytime. Good luck with it, let us know how things go

[87LongroofCP]

Hi Gadget73 and everyone, Been fighting the flu or something, Not Fun! Started getting the motor out this afternoon, Few questions for the Panther Guru"s. When using the HO intake,egr, and throttle body, What do I need to use to make the trans, throttle cable bracket fit? Is there an easy solution? Can I do away with the low oil level sender on the pan? And finally (for now) Does anybody know on an 87 CP if I can do something with the vacuum lines and solenoids? On the pass. inner fender well? Do I need it all? It really looks like s..t. Thanks again!

[gadget73]

you use the lever off your stock throttle body and attatch it to the HO throttle body. Involves a little grinding and a spot weld. Bore out the stock EGR spacer (throttle bracket bolts to this) to the same size as the HO part. It will all fit up nicely. Bore job is probably 25-40 bucks at a local machine shop. Shouldn't be anything major, just a bit of setup on a lathe or milling machine.

You can remove the low oil sender if neccesary. if the pan has the hole though, you'd be best leaving it. If you're replacing the pan, simply don't hook the wire up.

If you need the smog pump and all, all the junk on the fender must stay. If you're removing the smog pump, you can remove a lot of the plumbing. I have all 3 on my car, but only the upper one which is for the EGR is hooked up. I removed all but the 2 vacuum lines neccesary to operate that.