Due to there being several requests for information about one of my favorite 351W engine packages, the 351W with the longer connecting rods, I decided to put this thread together in the interest of getting some information out there, and is going to be a source of info for this build.
I am not building one of these engines right now, but have built two in the past, and I would have to say that I was impressed with how they ran. However, before I start tossing part numbers out there, I am going to give you a brief rundown of who can benefit, and who won't benefit, from longer connecting rods, and a simple explanation of just what this is, and isn't.
Thousands of years ago, Cro-Magnon-era man roamed the countryside, armed with spears and clubs....no, wait, too far back. In an effort to try to squeeze more power out of 2-barrel-carb engine limits, circle-track engine builders went to machining down the connecting rods from Ford 351M/400 engines, along with getting pistons custom-built to put on those rods, and using them. The longer connecting rod works excellent with smaller cylinder heads such as the stock GT40/GT40P, AFR 165's (lethal combo), and Windsor JR's. It also favors small camshafts, which most of us are running, and small intake manifolds, which again most of us here are using.
Keep in mind, that you will be using the stock crankshaft. Stroke is not affected. You are simply reducing the pin/deck clearance, and putting a longer connecting rod in place.
Long-rod engines do not work well with larger heads, single-plane intakes, and big cams. In short, long-rod engines need less head, cam, and intake, so they would work well with most of the existing setups here.
One other bonus? Long-rod engines can run a lot more compression on pump gas. My two that I built? The engine with the AFR 165's ran a calculated 11.1:1 compression ratio....on 87 octane. The Windsor SR headed unit? 10.5:1. I also used stock Mustang 5.0 HO roller cams in both engines. The owner of the AFR-headed motor dynoed it, and it came back with a results sheet, making 449 hp and 451 ft/lbs of torque. Some notes? The engine was above 400 ft/lbs. from 2000 to 5000 rpm. It was the best daily-driver engine I had ever built, even though it went into a full-size 1994 Bronco, with EFI. With the smoked stock traction lock diff and 3.73 gears, you could do peg-leg burnouts at 55 mph, with the 31" tires that were on it. I ended up having to put a detroit mini-locker into it to get it to hook up, because the truck was undriveable in wet weather.
One other note? With the engine balanced, and side-loading reduced, both engines were pretty much vibration-free, and other than exhaust noise, you couldn't tell the engines were running.
Now, I am not guaranteeing anything, I am just relaying my experience with my two builds, and feedback from other engine builders (for example? http://www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/F...02875.html...I don't know this guy, this was just another comment). That being said, I will place product info below.
Want a kit? Speedomotive sells a 351 long rod kit.
Want to make your own?
Pistons? You have two choices:
Wiseco used to have a part number for this piston, but I can't find it anywhere...however, since they will custom-build about anything...
At my last price check, $279-$300 for a set of 351M/400 rods, modified to fit on a 351W crank.
If there are any questions....ask away. I also know details about a 302 long-rod setup.....
I am probably forgetting something.