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    Troubleshooting Tailgate Window

    Hello! Hoping somebody can help me troubleshoot my tailgate window switch on the dashboard of my 1986 Country Squire wagon.

    Situation:
    Purchased vehicle last Sunday knowing tailgate window didn't go up and down.
    - Pulled apart tailgate and found another switch for the window wired up and laying inside the tailgate but just floating around. Looks factory.
    - Using above switch and a volt meter I confirmed power to the window motor, therefore determined motor was bad.
    - Last night I replaced the window motor and confirmed that indeed it does go up and down now using the switch located INSIDE the tailgate and just floating around.
    - BAD NEWS: Switch on dashboard does not work. Window never moves. I'm stuck here at this point.

    If anybody can tell me how it's supposed to function that would be helpful to start the troubleshooting. Should that switch on the dash work at any time? Only with the ignition on? Only with the ignition on and tailgate closed?

    Any input would be great! Thanks!

    (Oh, I'm also haveing trouble with front passenger door, when you pull the handle it likes to release like 1 click, but won't fully open. Is there an adjustment inside the door for this? Figured I'd ask before pulling the panel off. Thanks!)

    JD
    1986 Ford Contry Squire: HO engine swap, 3G alternator, 3.73 gears, rear air springs, Class III 8000 lb hitch... potential tow rig for my Blazer trail toy??

    #2
    jumper the dash switch see if the window works...if not check the wiring where it goes thru the rubber gromnet to the door...i think the switch inside fell off the lock cyl on the door......it's a little scary back there, but fixeable

    1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
    2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
    1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
    1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
    2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
    1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

    please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

    Comment


      #3
      So it sounds like your motor and regulator are at least functional; that's good. The way things are *supposed* to function is:

      1) When you turn the key all the way to the left, the window rolls down and you can reach in to the inside handle and pull the tailgate down like on a pickup - handy for hauling long items.

      2) When you turn the key all the way to the left, the window rolls up.

      3) You can roll the window up and down using the dash switch whenever your accessory circuits are energized.

      I don't think my dash switch was functioning when I removed it last, but that's a moot point on my car because the rear window regulator's been busted for like 9 years now. My idea for controlling the thing once it's repaired has been to just wire my own switch using a six-pole momentary on/off/on switch - all it really needs is to put 12V across the motor leads, first in one direction and then the other. Heck, even two momentary switches, one for up and one for down, would still get the job done just fine.
      2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

      Comment


        #4
        10-4. I brought my tools with me to work so I'll take a looksee at it at lunch today.

        Thanks!
        1986 Ford Contry Squire: HO engine swap, 3G alternator, 3.73 gears, rear air springs, Class III 8000 lb hitch... potential tow rig for my Blazer trail toy??

        Comment


          #5
          Got it! Window is going up and down... and I also did see wehre that switch is supposed to bolt up inside the tailgate for the key hole.

          Another question: The lock in the tailgate isn't working. I removed the solenoid and just tried to manually engage it but no luck. I don't see how it's physically supposed to "lock" the mechanism, so my guess is something has sheared off. Just another thing to fix / replace!

          Thanks for your help!
          1986 Ford Contry Squire: HO engine swap, 3G alternator, 3.73 gears, rear air springs, Class III 8000 lb hitch... potential tow rig for my Blazer trail toy??

          Comment


            #6
            Kewl! Inside where the plunger goes there's a little lever that you can use to manually lock and unlock the door from the inside; the lock cylinder should have a little cam on the end of it that's connected to that lever.
            2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

            Comment


              #7
              Both latches have to latched on the wagon tailgate for it to lock. When the hinges get worn and the strikers loose their plastic, it's virtually impossible to get one to lock.

              I have a question for you (or anyone else). How'd you get the window motor out without drilling the tailgate? I couldn't get to the bolts to get the window motor out without drilling unsightly holes on the inside of the gate.
              1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
              1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

              GMN Box Panther History
              Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
              Box Panther Production Numbers

              Comment


                #8
                You're not doing so bad, Tigs ... I haven't figured out yet where to drill in the first place!
                2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                Comment


                  #9
                  I'm not sure if the rear motor on yucatec's car got rebuilt or not but I know there arent any holes in there. I believe I used a small ratchet wrench and removed the thing though. Its tight but there is enough room to sneak in there if memory serves. Think I had to pull one of the tin panels thats under the rear door panel to reach in to the motor.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Comment


                    #10
                    i replaced the motor with a ford reman.....iirc i was able to get the bolts out without moving the regulator, but i could be wrong

                    1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                    2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                    1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                    1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                    2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                    1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                    please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      i had to drill 3 1/2 inch holes to get access to the window motor bolts. actually guessed pretty dang close.

                      drilled small pilot holes first and looked through them to make sure i was on track and didn't swiss cheese the rear door.

                      On the rear tailgate lock, i know that the top striker isn't latching on the door, so i'll mess around with adjusting the door and getting the latches to work before I fool around with the lock too much more. bushings on the drivers side are gone, so i'll try and fab up a metal spacer to take up the gap. door drops about 2 inches when you open it with all the slop in it right now...
                      1986 Ford Contry Squire: HO engine swap, 3G alternator, 3.73 gears, rear air springs, Class III 8000 lb hitch... potential tow rig for my Blazer trail toy??

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by JD's Toy View Post
                        i had to drill 3 1/2 inch holes to get access to the window motor bolts. actually guessed pretty dang close.
                        That works; I kind of got used to how the other doors have dimples where you're supposed to drill. Don't suppose you took pictures?
                        2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          tellin you mang i didnt drill any holes

                          1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                          2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                          1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                          1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                          2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                          1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                          please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by lincolnmania View Post
                            tellin you mang i didnt drill any holes
                            So you can get the regulator out without drilling holes? Or was this just reaching in and removing those two long screws retaining the motor body?
                            2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              if you want to get just the motor out reach in there and unbolt it....a stubby ratchet wrench is what i used i thing......if you want to remove the regulator, just drill out the rivets that hold it to the door.....can use short 1/4" bolts and nuts and lockwashers in place of the 1/4" rivets

                              1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                              2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                              1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                              1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                              2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                              1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                              please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

                              Comment

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